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Tuesday, April 1, 2003
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Cheese course
By Emily Green
Now that we're infatuated with cheese, we're also more than a little confused.
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Sticking up for rhubarb (it's time)
Rhubarb starts out so beautiful, its bright color a beacon among the greens of spring. But give it to a cook, and it can wind up mushy and ragged, almost stringy. In old-time lunch counters, wisecracking waitresses nicknamed it "boiled socks."
RESTAURANT JOURNAL
When dining out means reaching out
By Valli Herman-Cohen
Contrary to expectations, restaurants around L.A. have been seeing an uptick in business since the war with Iraq began last week. Restaurateurs are likening the situation to the weeks after Sept. 11, when neighborhood places were filled with diners looking for a sense of community and social interaction.
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE: THAILAND
Tapas learn to speak another language
By Linda Burum
And Rambutan Thai proves the translation couldn't be simpler. This is food made for the "small plates" craze.
THE REVIEW
In the nick of time, a chef from Toulouse
By S. Irene Virbila
Citronelle in Santa Barbara languished after Michel Richard headed East. Then Isabelle Alexandre showed up.
WINE
Growing the grapes of peace
By James Ricci
A winemaker in Israel tends his vineyards, despite the turmoil surrounding him.
MEDIA DISH
Diary of a chef wannabe
By Russ Parsons
Julie Powell was in a rut. Teetering on the brink of 30, living in a tiny apartment in a distinctly unglamorous outer borough of Manhattan, working at a government secretarial job she invariably describes as "soul-sucking," she figured what her life needed was a good jump-start.
CULINARY SOS
This soup's rich little secret
Dear SOS: Can you obtain the recipe for lobster chowder from Grannan's Seafood Restaurant in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada? Our family thinks this is the finest we have eaten.
From milk to Morbier: a guide
By Emily Green
UNDERSTANDING how a cheese is made will help you understand how it's going to taste. Here are the ABC's:
What goes with cheese? Pairings that work
By Emily Green
THE plate with five different cheeses seems such an elegant thing. But leave it to restaurants and food photographers. At home, there is nothing better than one cheese in perfect condition served with just the right drink.
MATTERS OF TASTE / DAVID SHAW
It only tastes expensive
Finding wine for under $10 is this couple's passion -- and business.
WINE OF THE WEEK
1996 Vietti Barolo Castiglione
Quick swirl
For the record
Hollywood lunch -- In the March 19 Food section, the caption accompanying an illustration incorrectly identified two of the figures shown. From the left are Jeffrey Katzenberg, then Barry Diller and David Geffen; not Geffen, Diller, then Katzenberg. Also, the story mistakenly said the restaurant, Ma Maison, had been on La Cienega Boulevard; it was on Melrose Avenue.
Stories from the previous seven days can be found in Print Edition
Best Recipes of 2002
There's been no shortage of keepers -- we ran more than 500 tried-and-tested recipes in 2002 -- but these standouts are the ones we'll be making again and again.
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Real Entertaining
By Regina Schrambling
The party pros have filled bookshelves with glossy impossibility. Don't buy into it. Here's how to have your party and enjoy it too.
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Top L.A. Restaurants
Our critic, S. Irene Virbila presents recipes for the ten best appetizers, main courses and desserts she ate in 2002.
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A searchable database of wines selected by the Times.
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The Hollywood lunch
Nobody really eats. It's all about power, and never more so than right now.
It's back on top
Once again, mayonnaise is the darling of cooks -- in all its guises.
Celery root, all dressed up
Look past the bulb's gnarly exterior for a beautiful taste -- a little bit sweet, a little bit nutty.
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