Introduction
The term 'embroidered bookbinding' usually describes a book bound
in textile, decorated with a design made for the book and worked
in coloured and metallic threads on both covers. The cloth was embroidered
separately before it was glued or stitched to the boards of a ready
bound book; embroidered covers do not form part of the binding structure.
The majority of embroidered bindings were produced by professional
needleworkers.
Brief History of Embroidered Bookbindings
In the 16th and 17th centuries embroidery came into fashion in
England, and embroidered bookbindings were most popular under the
Tudors and Stuarts. Embroidered bindings were never mass-produced
but always made for individuals by request.
Embroidered covers were mainly used on religious books such as
Bibles, Psalters and Prayer Books, and on presentation copies, often
for clergy or members of the royal family. Embroidered covers on
small books, particularly Prayer Books meant for private use, were
often made for women. As presentation copies, however, they were
equally given to men, especially to kings or bishops.
The most common designs were Old Testament scenes featuring Adam
and Eve, Moses and Aaron, Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, or David
playing his harp, and New Testament scenes and figures of the saints. There
were also allegorical figures, such as Peace and Plenty or Faith
and Hope, flora and fauna, and heraldic subjects. The use of portraits
came into fashion in the 17th century. Initials and coats of arms
were added to personalise the work. Sources of many of the images
came from professional embroiderers' pattern books or from manuscripts,
illustrated books and paintings. The designs were frequently simplified
or adapted to the size of the book and the materials to hand.
The oldest known English embroidery on a book covers a 13th-century
manuscript Psalter, which belonged to Anne Felbrigge in the latter
half of the 14th century and is known as the Felbrigge Psalter, now in the
British Library (MS Sloane 2400). The two panels on the upper and lower covers show
the Annunciation and the Crucifixion respectively and are now inlaid
in an 18th-century calf leather binding.
The majority of surviving embroidered bindings date from the 16th
and 17th centuries and still cover the books for which they were
made. In England the vogue for embroidered bindings ended with the
Civil War, but some have been produced subsequently.
Covering Materials and Decoration
Viewing Embroidered Bindings in the British Library
Images of embroidered bindings from the Library's collection can
be found in the Database of
Bookbindings. Many examples on printed books can be ordered
to the RB&M Reading Room; others, notably volumes with Davis
shelfmarks, are restricted and applications must be made in advance
to the Curator of Bookbindings.
All embroidered bindings are very fragile, so please take care when
handling them.
Other examples of English embroidered bookbindings can be found,
for example, at the Victoria & Albert Museum and at the Bodleian
Library in Oxford.
Selected Literature on Embroidery and Embroidered Bindings
This short list of titles includes works on embroidery in
general in order to provide the context in which embroidered covers
were produced.
Curator of Bookbindings:
Philippa Marks
Early Printed Collections
The British Library
96 Euston Road
London
NW1 2DB
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)20 7412 7767
Fax: +44 (0)20 7412 7577
Email: philippa.marks@bl.uk
