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Australian climber's 48 hours in the Death Zone

Monday May 29, 2006
By Cole Moreton and David Eames

Lincoln Hall was left for dead.

The leader of his climbing team, Russian Alexander Abramov, had made the announcement and the 50-year-old's widow was grieving back home in Australia. Sherpas trying to save him had run out of oxygen and been forced to leave his body on top of Mt Everest in murderous cold.

Then something astonishing happened. An American climber on his way to the summit early next morning saw the frozen body and noticed faint signs of life.

He gave the confused, frostbitten man hot tea and oxygen and radioed for help. Eleven sherpas climbed up to bring Hall down on a stretcher. It took them all day and long into the night.

The expedition doctor was waiting below at the North Col camp in a dining tent he had converted into a field hospital. Hall was severely frostbitten and suffering from altitude sickness and "acute psychosis, a disorientation in space".

But after giving him oxygen and wrapping him in a sleeping bag the doctor, Andrey Selivanov, reported his survival to those who were mourning him with the words: "We shall overcome!"

Hall is now moving by yak to a lower altitude camp after arriving at Advanced Base Camp at 6400m, on Saturday, ending one of the most remarkable rescues in the history of the world's highest mountain.

He called his wife, Barbara Scanlon, at home in the Blue Mountains near Sydney, soon after his rescue and told her of his frostbitten fingers. She is understood to have replied: "I would love you the same even if you lost them all."

However, the Project Himalaya website was last night reporting Hall was unlikely to lose any fingers, and was being treated by "a superb frostbite expert".

Project Himalaya organiser and Everest guide New Zealander Jamie McGuinness last night described Hall's rescue as "pretty miraculous", and one of the great escapes.

Hall survived almost 48 hours in the so-called Death Zone above 8000m - 12 of them without bottled oxygen - after reaching the peak on Thursday. The Death Zone is where oxygen starvation causes the body to deteriorate rapidly, and the brain and lungs can fill with fluid.

The rescue came just days after it emerged that a British man, 34-year-old David Sharp, had been ignored by climbers as he lay dying on a busy route to the top.

New Zealand climber Mark Inglis - who recently became the first double amputee to scale Everest - was criticised when he admitted more than 40 climbers had passed Sharp as he lay dying near the summit.

Inglis said it would have been pointless to attempt saving Sharp, as he was "effectively dead", and at such altitudes it was hard enough to keep oneself alive.

But the behaviour of Inglis and others was described as "horrific" by Sir Edmund Hillary, the first man to conquer Everest, 53 years agotoday.

"Human life is far more important than just getting to the top of a mountain," Sir Edmund said at the time.

McGuinness last night told the Herald Hall owed his survival to the fact he had climbed with professionals, where Sharp had not.

"David Sharp basically had no back-up because he was climbing with a budget company ... they couldn't send sherpas up to find him."

He said that even if Sharp had been rescued he would likely have suffered dreadful injuries.

"You have got to wonder whether somebody wants to live through that ... both arms chopped off, both legs chopped off and then probably needing a brain transplant, as well."

Only 1300 people had climbed Everest by the turn of the century - but in the past six years, this number has almost doubled, thanks to better climbing technology and commercial exploitation of the mountain.

The atmosphere on Everest has been described as "a circus" and "a graveyard" in weblogs from the crowded slopes in the past few days. Some climbers have turned back, sickened by the 11 recorded deaths so far this year - the worst-ever season for individual fatal incidents on Everest.

There may be more. Abramov, leader of the 7Summits Club team with which Hall was climbing, says he believes 15 people have died.

The reason for so many deaths, he wrote on his weblog, has been extremely good, windless weather.

"The weather has allowed plenty of climbers to reach the summit. In more severe conditions, they probably would stop climbing at lower heights."

Hall already knew, at first hand, how dangerous the mountain could be: in 1984 he failed in a team attempt to climb the north face without bottled oxygen.

He abandoned his own attempt at 8300m that time, fearing for his health, and let others go on ahead.

Hall wrote afterwards that although he would never see the summit panorama, "I know that no view is worth that price".

This year he returned, hoping to help a 15-year-old called Chris Harris break the record for the youngest person to reach the top.

Chris was forced to give up, but Hall felt able to go on. He left the summit assault camp at 8300m on Wednesday morning with five sherpas and the experienced guide, Harry Kikstra, alongside Thomas Weber, a visually impaired German climber.

Only 50m from the top, Weber became totally blind. He turned back with Kikstra and two sherpas, but collapsed, saying "I am dying", and never recovered consciousness.

Meanwhile, Hall had reached the summit, but was losing co-ordination as high-altitude cerebral edema caused fluid to collect in his brain. He sat down in the snow just below the peak, unable to move on his own. The three sherpas tried to haul him down the mountain, but after nine hours they had moved only 100m down the icy ridge.

By then Hall was showing no signs of life.

The sherpas were exhausted and had no oxygen left. But they reportedly had to be ordered by their expedition leader on the radio to come down to camp in the darkness and save their own lives.

They had to be helped down the mountain the next day. So Hall was left for dead, close to the body of Weber.

* Cole Moreton writes for the Independent in London.

ANATOMY OF A RESCUE

THURSDAY

Midnight (local time): Australian climber Lincoln Hall, 50, sets out for Everest summit from an assault camp at 8300m. He is accompanied by five Sherpas, guide Harry Kikstra and German climber Thomas Weber.

About 50m from the summit, Weber, who is visually impaired, goes totally blind and is escorted down the mountain by Kikstra and two Sherpas. He dies a few hours later.

9am: Hall reaches Everest summit at 8848m.

10am: Becomes unwell at 8800m, suffering a suspected cerebral oedema (swelling of the brain). Three Sherpas spend nine hours dragging him down the mountain, managing to move him only about 100m.

The Sherpas are told to leave Hall - who by now is showing "no signs of life" - and save themselves.

FRIDAY

7am: Another climbing expedition heading for the summit finds Hall lying in the snow, barely alive. He is given oxygen and hot tea. A rescue attempt is mounted.

11am: Rescue Sherpas reach Hall and start their descent.

10pm: The team reach a staging camp at about 7000m. Hall is reported to be confused, and suffering acute cerebral oedema and hypoxia.

SATURDAY

Late morning: Hall arrives at Everest advanced base camp at 6400m.

2pm: He is spotted in the camp, having - in the words of Nepal-based New Zealand rescuer Jamie McGuinness - walked down the mountain "pretty much on his own".

Source: www.mounteverest.net

Last Updated: Sunday, 28 May 2006 11:27 P GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci

Sunday, 21 May 2006

The New/Old Superman

Go here first.

I was one of the first who complained that this Superman is wrong. The costume is not in the primary shades I am used to from my comics. Kevin Spacey does not have the look that I believe Lex should have - bring in Clancy Brown. Lois Lane has a stupid kid? WHAT - THE - HELL - IS - WRONG - WITH - BRYAN - SINGER?

However.... I saw that first trailer and was intrigued. Lex is a cross between ecentric and Se7en. Lois seems very sincere and focused. The comedy is there (I liked the bird-plane-superman joke). I like that this film picks up from film two in the Superman series and isn't reinventing the wheel like Batman Begins.

Here is what gets me...
When Superman flew down the street and the crowds of people stood and stared. Sweet muscular Jesus!!!! That scene sent chills down my back. My Batman is back and it looks like my Superman will be back too.

I am so looking forward to this summer.

JDC

Last Updated: Thursday, 25 May 2006 9:52 P GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback (2-0) :: John Donald Carlucci

Friday, 19 May 2006

Inspiration too and 2

Where do I get those fun ideas?

Well, I have a muse. I keep her broken little body in a shoebox near my dust covered laptop. I like to shake it and pretend she is still helping me.

::Sob::

Since she isn't, I have to go to different sources. When I hit Block Le Writer ™, I usually turn to porn. No, just kidding. I NEVER, ever, ever look at porn. I don't support Organized Crime™ (owned by, oddly enough, Organized Crime). Besides that, I don't want to make baby Jesus cry. I actually use Wikipedia and use the random article function. Wikipedia is a godsend for me.

Another nice site is Webcrawler.

Answers.com provides great research material.

Rotten Library provides research on everything from the WOW Signal (look it up ya lazy bastards) to Sacred Geometry.

So get going and start digging.

JDC

Last Updated: Friday, 19 May 2006 6:48 P GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci

Thursday, 18 May 2006

What's wrong with this picture?

Since my pal Bill has been putting motivational posts on his board, I decided to shamelessly rip him off. Fellow writers - read below and be inspired.

New Zealand double amputee scales Everest

Mon May 15, 4:17 PM ET

New Zealand mountaineer Mark Inglis, who lost both his legs in a climbing accident 24 years ago, has become the first double amputee to reach the summit of Mount Everest, his wife Anne confirmed.

The 47-year-old Inglis rang his wife to say he had made it to the top of the world's highest mountain and had returned to base Camp 4
I can't get cell coverage in my damn house, and this guy calls his wife from one of the tallest mountains in the world.

Anne Inglis said the phone reception was bad and she was unable to ascertain exactly when he reached the peak, but suspected it was about midday (0400 GMT) Monday.

"Now they make their way back down, which will probably take three or four days, and then they will be home. So they will certainly come back pretty fast."

She said her husband's prosthetic legs had been no trouble, and when one snapped earlier this month he described the mishap as "a minor hiccup".

In case something went wrong, he was carrying a spare set of legs as well as equipment to make necessary repairs.
This rocks for SO MANY REASONS!

Inglis was a mountain rescue guide when he and fellow climber Phil Doole had both legs amputated below the knee after suffering frostbite in 1982 when trapped in an ice cave for 14 days on Mount Cook, New Zealand's highest peak.
Does this mean both he and his friend had their legs amputated? Man, talk about a bitch.

Since then, Inglis has taken on a number of challenges and succeeded -- ranging from legless mountaineer and ski guide to research scientist after earning an honours degree in human biochemistry. He is also a leading winemaker and cycling silver medallist at the Sydney Paralmypics.
He is a fucking biochemist too?!!! Son-of-a-bitch, this guys is like Buckaroo Banzai (but with legs).

Before leaving on his Everest expedition, Inglis told AFP the fact that he had lost both legs, and no one has ever scaled the world's highest peak with two artificial limbs, was of secondary importance.
Bullshit, I get winded crossing to my building from the parking lot and I have bout legs!

"I'm not doing this to be the first double amputee -- if I am then it's the icing on the cake -- but it's more about I've been climbing most of my life and Everest is the achievement really.

"And it gives you the knowledge of empowerment to do other things."
Next week he is going to resurrect his dead grandmother.

Yeah, so be inspired and not angry at your life like me.

Last Updated: Thursday, 18 May 2006 4:07 P GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci

Monday, 20 March 2006

[Review] Take the Lead

Take the Lead

na — — DVD / VHS

More Information read other reviews

Rating:

Review of Take the Lead

What is there about middle-aged actors who need to do films where they teach inner-city black children something?

Morgan Freedman
Sam Jackson
Michelle Pheifer
Etc.

Yes, nothing says urban like ballroom dancing. Aren't there kids in NOHO who need ballroom lessons? Of course Antonio is stunned when the kids begin creating thier own moves while dancing. Oh ick.

JDC

Last Updated: Monday, 20 March 2006 11:16 P GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci

Sunday, 19 March 2006

V For Vendetta

I just got back from seeing this film and I don't know what to say. I won't say anything because I don't want to steal any scenes from you before you see it.
I cried several times during this thing. I got chills during this thing. I got angry during this thing.
Would it be too much to say I wanted to be a better writer and a better person after watching this thing?
I went in to this movie cold - I have not read the comic. I was going to buy the trade last week, but I hated the artwork. I hate most of the artwork for moore's work. I ended up buying Global Frequency and was not blown away. I liked it, but it seemed like a lesser effort than Warren's other work.

JDC

Last Updated: Sunday, 19 March 2006 8:35 P GMT-04 :: Writing Stuff :: Movies :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci

Saturday, 18 March 2006

pretentious as usual

"My life is about finding time to dream."

Does anyone else find M Night's AMex commercial as annoying as they find him? Now I completely understand is this is the stuff of his dreams.

JDC

Last Updated: Tuesday, 9 May 2006 11:39 P GMT-04 :: Movies :: Comments/Trackback (4-0) :: John Donald Carlucci

Tuesday, 14 March 2006

I'm back

Okay, I'm back.

Man, I have a lot to talk about over the next few days like pulp heroes, comics, movies like Undead, and sexy women like Milla Jovovich. Sweet, sweet Milla.

Hmmmm.

Anyway, here is Jessica Simpson modeling as a blow-up doll (jokes about the doll being smarter are cheap and easy guys)..

Last Updated: Saturday, 18 March 2006 2:10 P GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback (4-0) :: John Donald Carlucci

Tuesday, 24 January 2006

DARN

I guess my job is now breaking me of the habit of reading the blogs in the scriptoshere. I still bounce into a few (John Rogers and Bill Cunningham), but I just visit the others only during a blue moon. I just don't have much time now and I use the little I have to write. I guess Bill would say I was acting more like a writer, but I miss it sometimes.
Anyway, I've just finished the rough breakdowns and 8 page script sample for a four issue series I want to pitch to Dark Horse. I wish I could give you the tag I use to pitch this to a few friends, but I need to get a full package together before I do.
Gotta crash right now. Good night you princes of Maine, you kings of New England.
JDC

Last Updated: Tuesday, 24 January 2006 11:48 P GMT-04 :: Writing Stuff :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci

Monday, 23 January 2006

Sick

Well, 14 days straight and I've gone and made myself sick. Blah, blah, and blah. I went to bed with an awful headache and woke up with a migraine/cold chills/and pukie feeling. I feel better now that I threw in a few more hours of sleep, but I still feel pukie.
Anyway, I plan on doing an update or two later. I've been listening to a lot of Director's commentaries on my miniDVD player while working and have grown to trully love Guillermo Del Toro.

Later guys
JDC

Last Updated: Monday, 23 January 2006 2:07 P GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci

Thursday, 19 January 2006

UPDATE

Well, my job has now gone 7 days a week with a total number of hours around 65. I'm certain this will kill me, but I have made plans in case I survive.

I'm taking the many statements about branding from Bill Cunningham to heart. I need to pursue the film aspect as well as the writing. I had planned on leaving at the start of summer to return to LA, I may put that off a few months and purchase an XL1 Canon camera. The biggest hold up to shooting shorts is the cost of renting the camera. Most places want a $5000 deposit and I don't have that. I do think investing in the camera would be a smart idea. I can build my brand by getting my short films out in festivals and this would be the best step.
I have spoiled myself a bit and purchased some fun things. First toy was a Playstation 2.

I've wanted one for so long and I can wait for the Playstation 3.

Sweet muscular Jesus, I can't wait for this thing! I also bought this little thing.

Feel the sound as you play your favorite games!
The Pyramat PM220 Sound Rocker is a modern gaming chair for the real gaming fan. It's got twin speakers built into the headrest and a powerful Subwoofer in the seat. When you're gaming, you'll hear your favorite action AND feel it. Whether you're watching your favorite movie or blowing things up in your favorite game, you'll feel like you're really there.

Features twin 8-watt speakers in the headrest and a 28-watt subwoofer inside the seat

Connects easily through the Audio ports of your TV, MP3 player, Stereo or gaming system

Volume, Bass and Input Switch built into the chair

Ergonomically designed for hours of comfortable gaming

Weighs approx. 40 lbs.

THIS CHAIR IS INCREDIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I play it with the following game.

This game is magnificent. It is the next best thing to being the Hulk, without the green glowing balls.

I also bought this.

This thing sounds awesome when the woofers are turned up.

Gotta grab some sleep guys, there will be more tomorrow.
JDC

Last Updated: Tuesday, 14 March 2006 9:30 P GMT-04 :: Writing Stuff :: Comments/Trackback (3-0) :: John Donald Carlucci

Wednesday, 11 January 2006

Tagged

ONE (1) earliest film-related memory:
I remember sitting in the backseat of my parent's car at the drive-in as the Alien logo materialized on screen. The rest is a blur of fingers-over-the-eyes and mom telling me to go to sleep.

TWO (2) favorite lines from movies:

"A lot o' people don't realize what's really going on. They view life as a bunch o' unconnected incidents 'n things. They don't realize that there's this, like, lattice o' coincidence that lays on top o' everything. Give you an example; show you what I mean: suppose you're thinkin' about a plate o' shrimp. Suddenly someone'll say, like, plate, or shrimp, or plate o' shrimp out of the blue, no explanation. No point in lookin' for one, either. It's all part of a cosmic unconciousness.." Miller - Repo Man

"Laugh while you can, monkey-boy. " Lord Whorfin - Buckaroo Banzai

THREE (3) jobs youÂd do if you could not work in the "biz".
1. Graphic artist
2. Anthropologist
3. College prof

FOUR (4) jobs you actually have held outside the industry:
1. Mental hospital staff
2. Window washer
3. Pizza cook
4. Book shelver

THREE (3) book authors I like:
1. Clive Cussler
2. F. Paul Wilson
3. Clive Barker

TWO (2) movies youÂd like to remake or properties youÂd like to adapt:

1. I'd like to shot NightWorld from F. Paul Wilson. His Repairman Jack is a tremendous character.

2. Sahara: Dirk Pitt deserves better than the fucked up shit that came out last year.

ONE (1) screenwriter you think is underrated:

I actually can't think of any at the moment besides myself :)

THREE (3) people I'm tagging to answer this meme next:

Julie goes to hollywood

She can film it

DISContent

Last Updated: Sunday, 22 January 2006 12:14 A GMT-04 :: Writing Stuff :: Comments/Trackback (4-0) :: John Donald Carlucci

Wednesday, 4 January 2006

My plans for the next year

I won't bore you all with the details of my next year, but just rest well knowing I plan on making enough money to buy each and every one of you. I mean that in the good way of course (and by good way I mean white slavery).

I plan on the next six months spent in earning big chunks of cash for my move back to LA. I've read the very good blog entires on how what seperates the pro writers from the talking monkeys and I wish I could find the time. I will not be getting a whole lot of writing done before heading to LA. Here is my typical day...

Mon-Sat
6:15 AM         Wake up hating God and the rest of the world - praying that it is really only 4 o'clock
7:05 AM         Drive to work
7:50 AM         Get to my desk
12:30 PM       Lunch
1:00 PM         Back to desk
7:00 PM         Drive home
7:50 PM         Get home
8:00 PM         Eat - iron clothes - take care of personal business
11:00 PM      Bed
Sunday:         Washing clothes, write, run errands, shop, and extra sleep (sweet oblivion).

I'm frying, but every minute gets me closer to LA. I do try to jam in some writing at lunch (writing on my new Clie).

Last Updated: Wednesday, 11 January 2006 12:10 A GMT-04 :: Writing Stuff :: Comments/Trackback (6-0) :: John Donald Carlucci

Saturday, 31 December 2005

Hey all

I have been absent, but I have a good reason. I finally went to interview with a company that did not think I was over qualified, but now I have no time at all. I work for Banker's Insurance and they let me track down Katrina victims (with the Internet and telephone) to send them claim checks. I'm working the next ten weeks six hours a week at ten hours a day. I'll be able to pay off almost all of my bills (except that lovely PT Cruiser of mine) and I can then focus on California money.

It was really something to find150 people the two days before Christmas and give them the news that their checks will arrive in a week. I needed those two days very much after the last few months. Every day I find around a hundred more people and give them the good news. It takes a bit of digging, but it is worth every bit of effort.

I have a few entries to write, but they will have to wait until tomorrow. I am so damn tired that I have to crash. Thanks for all of the emails and comments guys.

BTW - the blog will be sticking around for a while longer.

JDC

Last Updated: Sunday, 1 January 2006 1:55 P GMT-04 :: Writing Stuff :: Comments/Trackback (4-1) :: John Donald Carlucci

Thursday, 29 December 2005

I haven't disappeared...

I will blog tomorrow night about quite a bit guys.

Promise.

JDC

Last Updated: Thursday, 29 December 2005 1:50 A GMT-04 :: Comments/Trackback :: John Donald Carlucci