
Chestnuts: A Tradition of Nourishment
For many Americans, their knowledge of chestnuts is limited to the famous opening words of “The Christmas Song”: “Chestnuts roasting on an open fire…” But in Italy, the savory chestnut is a much-loved foodstuff, as adaptable as it is
flavorful, eaten raw, roasted, boiled, stewed, or dried – even candied – and has been a key ingredient in sustaining generations.
Introduced to Europe by the Greeks, the chestnut tree (Castanea sativa) has played a vital role in the gastronomic, economic and cultural history of Italy for well over a millennia. Chestnut trees grow in dense, vast forests, usually high in the mountains, and are found in many regions of Italy, from Piemonte to Toscana and Umbria to Basilicata. Indeed, Italians lay claim to the oldest and largest chestnut tree on earth—the Castagno di Cento Cavallior, Chestnut of a Hundred Horses. Located on the eastern slope of Mount Etna, Europe’s tallest volcano, the Castagno is believed to be between 3,600 and 4,000 years old! The tenacity, strength and endurance of this tree is a fitting testament to the stable, nourishing and protective force the chestnut has been in Italian life.
Throughout history, the fruit of the hardy chestnut tree has provided healthful sustenance to kings, peasants, and
everyone in between; chestnuts are even credited with saving Greek forces from slow death by hunger during their retreat from Asia Minor in 401-399 B.C. Falling to the ground in prickly burrs each autumn, these nuts often have meant the difference between life and sure starvation for Italy’s rural populations.
After gathering the highly perishable nuts from the forests, farmers would shovel them into the top of a two-story stone casone, and then build a fire on the bottom floor. After several days of slow roasting, the nuts would be carted to mills to be ground into flour, which was then incorporated into their cooking at every opportunity. In fact, because chestnuts are loaded with starch (twice as much as potatoes), they were frequently dried and ground into flour to make bread, earning the tree the nickname “bread tree.”
The Extraordinary Food
The lowly chestnut has proved so enduring because, as a food, it is, in a word, extraordinary. Beloved for its starchy-sweet flavor and chewy, soft texture, it has a remarkably complex nutritional make-up. The chestnut is low in fat and
calories, yet high in complex carbohydrates, oils, and vitamins B-1 and B-2, and is also the only nut to contain a significant amount of Vitamin C.
Although there are a half-dozen or more varieties of chestnuts available in markets across Italy, the most popular are castagne and marroni. The difference between these two beloved nuts is mainly size and shape: castagne are generally smaller and rounded on one side and more flat on the other; marroni are much larger and more plump.
The arrival of the chestnut crop is a sure sign that fall is on its way. During October and November, chestnut festivals are celebrated across Italy to welcome the chestnut harvest and signal the end of the growing season. Nothing from the chestnut groves is wasted during harvest. The nuts are used for eating or to make chestnut flour, the leaves become bedding for animals, and the wood is used for building or fuel.
Wonderful outdoor chestnut festivals can be found in small Italian villages that sit high in the mountains of Piemonte to Lazio and on down. Although some villages have music, dancing and even parades, the celebration is mostly centered on the chestnut. A variety of sweet and savory chestnut dishes are typically available. Roasted chestnuts are always served, while friends and families gather around to enjoy the chestnuts, the warm fire, and simply to pass the time together in a festive atmosphere.
Although the harvesting process in Italy remains fundamentally unchanged from centuries past, Italy’s chestnuts are now
exported for the enjoyment of all cultures, and connoisseurs and chefs the world over eagerly anticipate the bounty of the yearly harvest. And, of course, chestnuts continue to be enjoyed in Italy in soups, pastas, stuffings, stews and desserts, in dishes ranging from ravioli to ciacci (small, stuffed pancakes made from chestnut flour) to biscottini di Marroni (chestnut cookies).
To join in the timeless tradition of the chestnut and celebrate the cozy days of autumn, try adding chestnuts to your dishes – or go ahead and roast them over an open fire and experience the delightful, life-affirming aroma of a simple yet dynamic nut that has provided nourishment and sustenance for countless generations.
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Chestnut Dinner in the Mountains of Italy |
