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Did you know that many of the characters in Portland-bred Matt Groening's iconic television show, The Simpsons, were named after streets in his hometown? That's one of the things I learned during a recent visit to a venerable, cosy bar in one of my favourite cities.

The Driftwood Lounge is tucked away off the elegant lobby of the newly opened Hotel deLuxe, the renamed, $11-million rebirth of the 1912-built Mallory Hotel. In the dark, comfortable bar a Portland native explained that Flanders (Ned), Kearney (the bully), Lovejoy (Reverend), and Quimby (Mayor) were all street names in Groening's nearby, northwest Portland neighbourhood.

Portland is much more than an in-joke for television fans. A dynamic city of about one million, Portland is home to a handful of small, liberal arts colleges that give the compact downtown core a highly educated, politically and environmentally conscious community. Well served by a highly efficient transportation system of modern light-rail trains and old-fashioned trolley cars and tucked between the Willamette River and the west hills which are home to the city's renowned rose gardens, Portland is a beautiful city, too -- and it's only five or so hours south on I-5.

During a recent visit, I stayed at Hotel deLuxe, located on a characterless street a few blocks from Portland's bustling downtown, on the edge of The Pearl, the city's trendy, exciting urbanization of a warehouse district and home to the city's cultural heart, the enormous, independent book store Powell's City of Books. From the moment I walked through the gilded, mirror-lined entrance with its vintage chandeliers, the deLuxe was an oasis of nostalgic, romance-inducing charm. Up a few steps to the lobby's palms, plush leather furnishings, and an inviting array of movie-themed coffee table books, it celebrated Hollywood glamour. A gorgeous, antique mirror framed a huge video wall of film images, while movie music softly underlined the hotel's Hollywood theme.

To the right of the lobby was a large banquet room with another large screen filling one wall with a film loop of Humphrey Bogart, Cary Grant and Ingrid Bergman. To the left of the lobby were Gracie's and the Driftwood Lounge. Gracie's served uninspired breakfasts, and the Driftwood, thankfully unchanged from its decades as the Mallory Hotel's casually swank hangout, still had an air of romantic intrigue.

More than 400 black-and-white photos from Hollywood films lined hotel corridors. The cream-coloured walls of my Art Deco-designed room, which also featured modern amenities such as a high-definition flat-screen television, iPod station and music menu, wireless high-speed Internet, and "make it so" button with seven-choice pillow menu and nine-choice spiritual menu providing books of faith ranging from the Bhagavad Gita to the Five Books of Moses to books on Scientology and beyond.

The service at Hotel deLuxe was impeccable. They're pet-friendly and provide a doggy bed, bowls and pet-walking service for their furry guests. You can even sign your pooch up for a massage. On my next visit I'm going to try one of the hotel's other special offers. For $199 US/night, the Twisted Love Package includes champagne, a game of Twister, massage oil and an intimacy kit.

Nearby at Jake's Famous Crawfish Restaurant, they've been serving fresh seafood since 1892. Jake's offers over 30 varieties of fresh fish daily and an unbeatable, old-fashioned bar that has been serving hand-shaken cocktails for over a century.

During my recent visit I discovered St. Honore Boulangerie, a rustic, very French bakery with a Normandy-bred master baker, a clay brick oven, and a wide selection of baked treats, sandwiches, and salads. It's a great spot for a quick nosh.

French culinary art is also showcased at Fenouil, where Pascal Chureau creates classic fare like wood-fired duck breast with Armagnac-soaked prunes in a cosy room that features jazz on the weekend. Another favourite spot for traditional French fare is Carafe Parisian Bistro. Try the crispy duck confit, bifsteak frites, or braised port shank.

Knowing that I love New Orleans, a Portland friend took me to Roux, Josh Blythe's Creole restaurant in North Portland's Overlook neighbourhood. After a delicious Sazerac cocktail that conjured-up the French Quarter, I tucked into Blythe's Oysters Gratinee de Bienville with house-smoked bacon, crawfish pie and collard greens, corn hush puppies, and house-made rabbit sausage with grilled asparagus.

The next day I crossed the river to ACME Food & Drink, a casual eastside joint with booths, a huge wrap-around bar, industrial-sized patio, and chef Jon Beeaker's homemade smoked meats and dry spice rubs. Beeaker's Asian-influenced barbecue dishes were inspired. Try the pulled pork, grilled quail, or wild boar ribs. With its 2:30 a.m. closing time, it's a great, late-night, people-watching hangout too.

Chef Kenny Giambalvo is another critically acclaimed Portland chef. At Bluehour, Giambalvo combines fresh regional ingredients with classic French and Italian recipes in a stylish, high-ceilinged room. Reservations are a must for good reason. His braised veal and black truffle-stuffed ravioli and potato gnocchi with Alaskan scallops are sublime.

You can eat well on a budget in Portland too. If you love Mexican food (and I do!), try El Burrito Loco, where the pork tacos are $1.35 each and delicious, or try Cha!Cha!Cha!, where you can choose from an offering of eleven different kinds of tacos. La Bonita on the eastside has great tacos too.

Pok Pok, a northern Thai restaurant in a funky, mini-storefront serves delicious Chang Mai curry noodle soup ($6.95), and the French beef stew at Binh Minh Bakery & Deli is a Vietnamese treat. Over on the eastside at Riyadh's Lebanese Restaurant, you can feast on lamb, tabbouleh, hummus, and vegetables for $8.98. Then there is Nick's Famous Coney Island, the eastside bar with walls covered in Yankee, Trailblazer, and Neil Diamond memorabilia and delicious chili dogs with sweet Walla Walla onions.

This season, a trip to Portland should include a visit to Portland Center Stage too. The $33-million theatre was carved out of Portland's historic Armory in the Pearl and now includes a 591-seat main stage theatre and 200-seat black box theatre. After opening the inaugural season with West Side Story, Portland Center Stage is offering a version of George Bernard Shaw's comedy of manners Misalliance through February 4. Dinner theatre at Madison's Grill features Who Stole My Dead Husband, a comedy about the mythical Fishetti mob with a Sinatra-inspired soundtrack.

Jazz fans might consider a drive down I-5 for the fourth annual Portland Jazz Festival February 16-25 featuring Chick Corea and Gary Burton, Branford Marsalis, Don Byron, Kurt Elling, Patricia Barber, Charles Lloyd, Roy Hargrove, Donald Harrison and Jacky Terrason, and a host of regional jazz stars at over 125 events downtown.

Portland's World Forestry Center in Washington Park offers a new interactive exhibition that includes the opportunity to get harnessed and hoisted 14 metres above the forest. At the Discover Museum you can experience a wet-free ride in simulated rapids and take video journeys to the forests of Siberia, China, South Africa, and Brazil.

At the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry (OMSI) you can feel the power of a simulated earthquake, climb aboard a real submarine, and investigate black holes in space at the Planetarium's 16-metre domed theatre.

The Portland Aerial Tram is a recently opened neighbourhood connector from the streetcar terminal at Downtown's south waterfront to the top of Marqum Hill, site of Oregon Health and Science University Campus. The three-minute ride offers fantastic views of the city, rivers and mountain.

The Quest for Immortality: Treasures of Ancient Egypt with 115 treasures of ancient Egypt and a life-sized reconstruction of the burial chamber of Pharaoh Thutmose III continues at Portland Art Museum until March 4. The weekly Portland Saturday Market (actually every Saturday and Sunday) reopens in March and showcases more than 300 local artisans. Located under the Burnside Bridge, the market also features lots of live entertainment, and it's on the city's rapid transit Max Line too.

One of the best ways to get acquainted with Portland's cultural riches is to take one of the guided tours offered by Portland Walking Tours (www.portlandwalkingtours.com). Daily, 21/2 hour Best of Portland and Underground Portland walking tours offer insights into the city's history, architecture, public art, and culture. Their Epicurean Excursion is a sumptuous, three- to five-hour walk and feast in The Pearl district sampling 30 regionally produced foods and beverages. Try impressing your guide with your knowledge of The Simpsons.

Joseph Blake is a Victoria writer.

IF YOU GO:

Hotel deLuxe, 729 SW 11th Ave., 866-895-2094

Jake's Famous Crawfish Restaurant, 401 SW 12th Ave., 503-226-1419

St. Honore Boulangerie, 2335 NW Thurman St., 503-445-4342

Fenouil, 900 NW 11th Ave., 503-525-2225

Carafe Parisian Bistro, 200 Southwest Market St., 503-248-0004

Roux, 1700 N. Killingsworth, 503-285-1200

ACME Food & Drink, 1305 SE Eighth Ave. 503-230-9020

BlueHour, 250 NW 13th Ave., 503-226-3394

El Burrito Loco, 1942 N. Portland Ave., 503-735-9505

Cha!Cha!Cha! 1208 NW Glisan St., 503-221-2111

La Bonita 2839 NE Alberta St., 503-281-3662

Pok Pok, 3226 SW Division St., 503-232-1387

Binh Minh Bakery & Deli, 6812 NE Broadway, 503-257-3868

Riyadh's Lebanese Restaurant, 1318 SE Hawthorne St., 503-235-1254

Nick's Famous Coney Island, 3746 E. Hawthorne St., 503-235-4024

Portland Center Stage, 128 NW 11th Ave., 503-445-3700

Oregon Zoo, 4001 SW Canyon Rd., 503-226-1561

Portland Jazz Festival, www.pdxjazz.com

World Forestry Center, 4033 SW Canyon Rd., 503-228-1367

Oregon Museum of Science and Industry 1945 SE Water Ave., 503-797-4000

Portland Saturday Market, 108 W. Burnside

Portland Walking Tours, 503-774-4522