After 31 people's
death on Nanga Parbat, the summit was reached by a single
man: Hermann Buhl. Here's the incredible story of this
almost super-human climb. HERMANN
BUHL AND NANGA PARBAT
In 1953, Nanga Parbat, was again subject to the German's
interest. Earlier, 31 people had lost their lives on this
mountain, including the inter-war years German Himalaya
elite, and it was the sceneof some
of the worst tragedies in alpine climbing's history. Once
it was thought that Nanga Parbat ("The naked mountain")
was the easiest 8,000 metre mountain to climb. That was
a fatal mistake. As destiny would have it, even the world's
highest mountain would be ascended before this ice-covered
and avalanche-dangerous colossus.
The initiator for the 1953 German - Austrian Himalaya
expedition was Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer, stepbrother to
the late (1934) Willy Merkl, and the whole operation was
meant to be a "memorial" expedition for the
last-mentioned. Herrligkoffer's way of organisation and
preparation didn't win the trust of the big alpine organisations,
and he had difficulties engaging famous climbers; Heckmair
and Rebitsch said no. Eventually he found a couple of
climbers with high altitude experience from the Himalayas:
Aschenbrenner (a veteran from 1934) and Frauenberger.
Last but not least he managed to engage the famous duo
from the Alps: Hermann Buhl and Kuno Rainer. Herrligkoffer
managed to arrange the expedition at the last minute and
they were finally underway. Everything went smoothly and
a base camp was established during the end of May. Camp
I - IV were established and stores and equipment were
transported upwards. Heavy snowfall and uncertain weather
made
all attacks towards the higher regions impossible. On
June 30th, Herrligkoffer ordered everyone to Base Camp.
At that time, they hadn't gotten higher up than the 1932
expedition.
However, the weather suddenly changed on July 1. Buhl,
Kampter, Frauenbergar and the camera man Ertl were still
in the higher camps. They had refused the retreat-order
and after discussing it via radio, they managed to get
their will through. (There had been conflicts the entire
time between Herrligkoffer and Aschenbrenner, who was
supposed to lead the climb). On July 2, Buhl and Kempter
established Camp V at the Col on the ridge up to the Silver
Saddle at 6,900 meters. Ertl and Fruenberger returned
to Camp IV. The weather conditions seemed to have stabilised.
Buhls plan was, if possible, to reach the Silver Saddle
at 7,450 meters and the big plateau above. From there
he could either ascend the preliminary summit or the Northern
Summit and the expedition's honour would be saved. Buhl's
famous solo-climbs in the Alps had proven his daring and
strength, and now he was ready to invest it all.
CLIMBING SOLO
At 1.00 a.m. July 3, Buhl left Camp V heading upwards,
Kempter had difficulties leaving his sleeping bag and
followed one hour later. The
snow conditions were good and the night was clear with
the moon lighting up the mountain. At 5.00 a.m. the sun
rose above the horizon and Buhl reached the Silver Saddle.
The three km long plateau taxed Buhl's strength. The heat
was almost overwhelming and the air stood completely still.
At the end of the plateau, Buhl had some tea and left
his pack behind. Now he could move more easily. Now Kempter
as well had reached the plateau but Buhl was moving too
fast, and was way ahead. Kempter realised he would never
catch up, and so he turned back and reached Camp V safely.
Buhl reached the Col below the summit (7.800 meters) at
2.00 p.m. Buhl had the technically most difficult section
of the whole climb ahead of him and the last 300 meters
didn't look promising. After an inner struggle he decided
to continue. He took a dose of Pertvin (a stimulant) and
startedclimbing the rocks. His apprehensions came true;
the
climb was partlyvery difficult and took a long time. First
at 6 p.m. Buhl reached the shoulder and one hour later
he stood on the summit. It was dead calmand perfectly
clear, the chapter Nanga Parbat was finished for the lonely
man on the top.
Down below, Kempter had reported that Buhl continued alone
toward the summit, and from each camp they looked up towards
the Silver Saddle hoping to see Buhl on his way back in
the evening. But nothing was to be seen, Frauenberger
had returned to Camp V during the day and spent the night
there together with Kempter. They could however not sleep,
thinking about Buhl's destiny. THE
DESCENT
While Buhl still was at the summit, the sun went down.
He drank his last tea and planted his ice-axe with Pakistani
and Tyroli flags attached to it and took a few pictures.
Night was falling fast as he started to descend. Above
8,000 metres at a tiny ledge below the shoulder he was
forced to emergency bivouac - without any sleeping bag
or warm clothes, he had left his pack on the plateau!
Standing on a piece of rock between 9.00 p.m and 4 a.m.
Hermann Buhl spent the night up in Nanga Parbat's "death-zone".
The wind was calm and the night clear, and in spite of
his thin clothing Buhl's body managed the cold, but he
was loosing all the feeling in his feet. At dawn he continued
the descent and going up from the Col was extremely strenuous.
Buhl took a new dose of Pertvin, and eventually reached
the plateau and found his pack. He was in no condition
to eat or drink anything. Pursued by hallucinations he
struggled on downwards across the plateau in the burning
sun. His thirst became overwhelming, some more Pertvin
mobilized his last resources of strength and at 5.30 p.m.
Buhl reached the Silver Saddle.
While Kempter on July 4 descended to Camp IV, Ertl reaches
Camp V and along with Frauenberger erected the memorial
plaque over Willy Merkl at the place where 1938 year's
expedition had found him, all the timelooking up towards
the Silver Saddle. They planned to continue the nextday
to try to find out what had become of Buhl. Frauenberger
returned to the plaque to attach it better when he suddenly
saw a small dot onthe Silver Saddle that is moving downwards!
Buhl! His happiness at being reunited with his friends
is indescribable. The photo to the right was taken by
Hans Ertl when he met a 10 years
older looking Buhl upon his return to the high camp: "Forty-one
hours separated my departurefrom the tent and my return
to it. Hans Ertl met me and took a snapshot (right). I
was so dehydrated that I could not utter a sound, but
Hans didn't mind. All he cared about was that I was back."
Buhl was very lucky on Nanga Parbat, escaping with just
a few frostbitten toes. This story reflects Buhl's style
of climbing; totally focused and by taking enormous risks
he often succeeded where others failed. If anyone at this
time could manage such a climb and survive - it was Hermann
Buhl.
BROAD PEAK 1957
Four years later on Broad Peak, Hemann Buhl and his companions
proved that, without any help from high altitude porters,
a small team could climb an 8,000 metre peak. But it was
Buhl's last summit. Some days later, attempting Chogolisa
together with Kurt Diemberger, he fell through a cornice
to his death.
"ahead of
us gleamed a radiance, enfolding every wish life could
conjure, enfolding life itself. Now was the moment of
ineffable truth... this was utter fulfillment... There
we stood, speechless, and shook hands in silence. We looked
down at the snow underfoot, and to our amazement it seemed
to be aglow. Then the light went out."
-
Kurt Diemberger
(on the summit of Broad Peak with Hermann Buhl)
Books about Nanga Parbat and/or Hermann Buhl
» Nanga
Parbat Pilgrimage by Hermann Buhl
» Hermann
Buhl ; Climbing without compromise by Reinhold Messner
» Solo
: Nanga Parbat by Reinhold Messner
Links about Hermann Buhl
» Hermann
Buhl short biography
Other mountaineering stories
» Tenzing
Norgay and his moment on the summit of Mont Everest
» K2
climbing history. From the first try to the successful
ascent in 1954
» The
first ascent of Mont Blanc anno 1786
» Reinhold
Messner - Nanga Parbat 1970 and 1978
» Reinhold
Messner - breaking new limits on Mount Everest
» Reinhold
Messner - the Manaslu tragedy
» Reinhold
Messner & Peter Habeler - Hidden Peak in alpine
style
» Reinhold
Messner & Hans Kammerlander - traversing the Gasherbrums
» A
tale from Lofoten. Written and experienced by Per Jerberyd
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