Matthew Farfan
THE
THREE VILLAGES
Created in 1995 out of the former "Three Villages" of
Stanstead Plain, Rock Island, and Beebe Plain, Stanstead is today
one of the most historic and picturesque towns in the Eastern Townships.
Located on the Quebec-Vermont border, the community was settled
in the 1790s. The first family to arrive were the Taplins, who settled
in 1796. The Taplins were like virtually every other pioneer family
of that era. They came to Stanstead from New England. And they were
looking for good land, which was becoming scarce in the new American
republic.
The
Taplins came to a country that was a complete wilderness. They were
not alone for long, however, for they were soon followed by other
families. The names of some of those families are still reflected
in local place names: Pierce, Lee, Beebe, and others.
Kilborn's Mills (Rock Island), 1836, by J. Bouchette.
Stanstead was
for some time an isolated backwater, the haunt of smugglers. A customs
port was established here in 1821, the first in the Townships, and
that helped. But some years later, officials were still complaining
that Stanstead was"a community where smuggling is popular and
the population is shrewd and lawless and ever willing to aid smugglers."
THE STAGECOACH
Be that as it may, Stanstead blossomed in the 19th century. Growth
and prosperity were everywhere. Where once there were forests were
now wide streets with elegant homes, inns, and prosperous businesses.
A major advantage to the economy was the stagecoach, which linked
Quebec City and Montreal with Boston. So, early in its history,
Stanstead took on the role of transportation centre, a role which,
due to its strategic location on the border and its proximity to
Autoroute 55, it retains to this day.
TOMIFOBIA
RIVER
Another advantage was the Tomifobia River, which winds its way through
town, and whose thundering falls are still an impressive site. The
Tomifobia gave birth to some of the first mills in the Townships.
In 1803, Colonel Charles Kilborn built grist and saw mills in what
is now the Rock Island part of town, and for many years that settlement
was known as "Kilborn's Mills." The river, whose current
powered the first waterwheels in town, would in time power a whole
string of factories all the way down through the village. These
shops, which manufactured everything from whips to overalls to tools,
would transform Rock Island into an important industrial town. These
were boom times for the village: full employment, and fortunes being
made. The Butterfield Tool factory, which was built directly astride
the border, and which at its peak employed hundreds of workers from
both sides of the line, may still be seen today.
Covered bridge and Tomifobia River, Rock Island,
c.1906. (Photo: Farfan Collection)
GRANITE CAPITAL OF CANADA
When people think of Stanstead, they sometimes think of its only
indigenously named "species": Stanstead Grey Granite.
This stone, which is quarried in and around Beebe, began to be worked
on a large scale in the late 1800s. It would grow to become the
cornerstone of the local economy, the rock, as it were, upon which
Stanstead is built.
During the Great Depression of the 1930s, it was granite that kept
the town going, for the largest office building in the British Empire,
Sun Life of Montreal, was going up, and it was built entirely of
Beebe granite! Today, granite and related industries employ hundreds
of workers in Stanstead.
The town, in fact, is sometimes referred to as the "Granite
Capital of Canada."
BOOMTOWN
There were other reasons for Stanstead's prosperity. Long before
the honour went to Magog, Stanstead was the seat of county government.
A seminary was built here in 1829, eventually becoming Stanstead
College, now a renowned private school. A second private school,
the French Collège des Ursulines was built in 1881. It too
is an important part of the community. The registry office was established
here in 1839, and here it remains to this day. The Stanstead Journal
has served the community since 1845, making it the oldest weekly
paper in the province of Quebec. The Eastern Townships Bank opened
a branch in Stanstead in 1859, one of the first banks in the Townships.
And with the growth of commerce and industry saw yet another arrival:
the railroad. The whistle of a steam locomotive in 1870 signalled
the arrival of the Massawippi Valley Railway, which in later years
became the Quebec Central.
That,
of course, was long ago, and things have changed. The stagecoach
is long gone. So too are the railways and many of the factories.
Yet, many things remain that are both reminders of Stanstead's colourful
past and signs of its promising future. For instance, the railwaysmay
have disappeared, but the old tracks have been transformed into
a bicycle path that winds its way right through town.
Dufferin Street, c.1910. (Photo: Farfan Collection)
The
disastrous fire that wiped out the north end of Dufferin in 1915
may have changed the look of that part of town. But most of the
homes were quickly rebuilt, and some of them were even more splendid
than their predecessors. The granite industry is bigger than ever.
Dufferin Street and Principale in Beebe are still just as beautiful
as they always were. Rock Island is still the commercial centre
it always was. And the border is still a major part of local life
-- as evidenced by Border Fest (right), which takes place here each
year.
Parade, Stanstead. (Photo: The Stanstead Journal).
For a tour of Stanstead's heritage attractions, click
here.
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