1. Set the INSOLE HEIGHT and  CRANK LENGTH scales at the base of the FitStik.

Loosen the clamping knobs and set the INSOLE HEIGHT and CRANK LENGTH scales to match the bike you are measuring. Tighten the knobs enough so the the pieces don't slip.

Notes and Tips:

          ALWAYS SET THESE TO THE BIKE YOU ARE WORKING ON

INSOLE HEIGHT is the height of your insole above the center of the pedal spindle. The example photos show 25mm.

TIP: You can estimate this by attaching the shoe to the pedal and holding a small ruler with one end lined up with the center of the spindle while lying flat against the sole of the shoe. Then roll your thumb up and feel where the hard top edge of the sole is, and note the distance from the pedal spindle at that point.

CRANK LENGTH is stamped on the inside of each crankarm. 170, 172.5 and 175mm are most common. The example shows a crank length setting of 175mm.

If you don't have a good way to measure Insole height use 25mm, which is about average. If you use the same shoes and pedals on every bike,  just use the same number each time; the ABSOLUTE number isn't important. But when you change shoe and/or pedal system, the DIFFERENCE is important.

for example, say you start with a road bike and use 25mm as the height. Then you want to set up a mountain bike that uses a different shoe and pedal. What's important is the DIFFERENCE between the two. If the mountain setup is about 10 mm higher, add that to the other setting (25+10=35)  and use 35 when working on the mountain bike.  

Changing these setting changes the effective crank arm length, and dials out the equipment so the position settings you use (for your body) stay the same.

2. Attach the FitStik to the Bike

1. Point the ADJUSTMENT RULER straight up (tighten the knob just enough to hold it);

2. Insert the CRANK BOLT ADAPTER into the crank bolt, then;

3. Slide the STABILIZER BAR down until it rests on the top tube. 

The FitStik will now be held on the bike by friction; sort of like a clamp between the top tube and the bottom bracket. You can let go and attach the straps. This avoids the need for seven arms and the dexterity of a circus juggler!

Wrap the BOTTOM BRACKET STRAP (red tab) around the seat tube.

Note: The CRANK BOLT ADAPTER is reversible. One side fits into the 8mm hole in most crank bolts. The other fits over a 14mm crank bolt. 

1. Stretch the STABILIZER STRAP under, up, and back over the top tube one full turn, then;

2. Cross the strap beneath the top tube to the left side of the STABILIZER BAR, then;

3. Pull the strap back up and over the top-tube and secure it on the top-left side of the STABILIZER BRACKET.

Notes:

• If the strap is not crisscrossed, the FitStik will tend to twist left or right making accurate measurements impossible.

• Make sure the pad and top tube are grit-free to avoid scratching the bike's finish.

4. Make the FitStik VERTICAL and SQUARE TO THE BIKE.

This is VERY important for accurate and consistent measurements, so take a few seconds and get it right!

a. Center the bubble in the level by sliding the STABILIZER BAR left or right. Again, make sure there's no grit on the pad or tube.

b. Make the FitStik SQUARE to the bike frame.

Loosen the wingnut on the STABILIZER BAR and slide the FitStik toward or away from the frame until it's roughly parallel to the seat tube (this adjustment is not critical). Then, rotate the FitStik on its vertical axis until the ADJUSTMENT RULER is lined up  parallel to the top tube, as shown in the picture. The slot in the ADJUSTMENT RULER serves as a visual alignment guide. 

c. Finally, loosen the wingnut on the CROSSBAR and position the ADJUSTMENT RULER over the saddle. Re-tighten this wingnut.

Notes and Tips:

Sight down the length of the bike to check squareness.

If the FitStik tends to twist or be knocked off vertical easily, reset the strap on the STABILIZER BAR. Make sure it's crisscrossed under the tube as described in #3.

RECHECK VERTICAL FREQUENTLY DURING USE!

5. Loosen the main clamping knob enough so the dial can slide smoothly (it should NOT be "sloppy" loose), then rotate the ADJUSTMENT RULER down from vertical until it rests on the back of the saddle as shown in the picture.

6. Now grasp the whole "main Dial and CROSSBAR" as shown and slide it down until the ADJUSTMENT RULER lies flat on top of the saddle. 

You can usually feel the ruler change from touching just the back to lying flat. Except in rare cases where the saddle is absolutely flat on top, the ruler will then touch the saddle at two points: one near the front and one  at the back, bridging over the low portion. 

Note: If the clamping knob is too tight, the unit can't slide, and the ADJUSTMENT RULER won't be able to rotate and lie flat on top of the saddle.

7. Read POSITION HEIGHT off the yellow scale, and SADDLE ANGLE off the MAIN DIAL

In the picture, HEIGHT is 79.8cm and ANGLE is -3.5 degrees.

8. Slide the SETBACK GAUGE until it touches the back of the saddle. Read SETBACK off the scale (33.7cm in the picture).

9. Swing the ADJUSTMENT RULER over the top toward the handlebars. 

Notes and Tips:

If necessary, loosen the wingnut holding the ADJUSTMENT RULER to the CROSSBAR, and slide it horizontally to clear computers, lights, or other equipment on the handlebars.  Retighten the wingnut.

• This is also used to clear the captain's seat post when setting up or measuring the stoker position on a Tandem.

• If the FitStik is not parallel to the bike's frame (Step 4) moving the ruler horizontally changes both reach and setback.

.

10. Center the REACH GAUGE over the handlebars. Read Reach off the scale, and BAR ANGLE off the MAIN DIAL.

 In the pictures, REACH is 47.9cm and BAR ANGLE is just about 0 degrees. 

Note: 

If you spend most of your time riding on the hoods (on a road bike), or switch between mountain and road bikes often, you may prefer to lie a dowel or broom handle across the brake hoods and measure reach to this point. This more closely matches the reach for the same rider on a mountain bike.