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Twin
Eagles
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Snowslide
at Kynoch
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Cedar
Forest
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Jenny
Falls
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Lone
Buck Killer Whale
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Having
a Look
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Mesachie
Nose
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Sunset
on Calm Water
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Labouchere
Channel
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Grizzly
Cubs Fishing
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Pacific
White-Sided Dolphin
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Sandy
Beaches
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Great
Blue Heron
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Black
Bears
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Dean
River Flats
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Sundown
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Juvenile
Grizzly
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Thorsen
Creek Petroglyphs
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Inside
the Snow Slide
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Jumping
Spring Salmon
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Waterfall
in Dean Channel
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Looking
South Down Matheson
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Kermode
Bear
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Eagle
Fight
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Columbia
Blacktail
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Wash
Wash
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Levi
Creek
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Grizzly
& Cubs Swimming
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Howe
Lake to South Bentinck Arm
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Top
of a Waterfall
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Glacial
Hills
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Willow Ptarmigan
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Sir
Alexander Mackenzie
(1764 - March 1820)
Alexander
Mackenzie, Explorer and Fur Trader was born in Scotland in 1764
and emigrated with his father to New York at the age of ten. In
1779 he entered the service of a Montreal firm engaged in the fur
trade. After working for five years in the companies Montreal office
he obtained a share in the business and became a trader in the West.
In 1788 he was put in charge of trade in the Athabasca region and
settled at Fort Chipewyan on the South shore of Lake Athabasca.
This was the staging point for the two expeditions which finally
enabled him to reach the Pacific. He made two trips; one to the
Arctic Ocean in 1789, and another to the Pacific Ocean in 1793.
Mackenzie
left on his first voyage of exploration on June 3rd 1789. After
crossing Great Slave Lake, the expedition followed the river that
today bears his name to its mouth in the Arctic Ocean. His lack
of knowledge in celestial navigation prevented him identifying his
position accurately. He returned to Fort Chipewyan in 42 days on
September 12th. This voyage of over 3000 miles had been accomplished
in only 102 days. Mackenzie was deeply disappointed, even though
he had been the first to explore one of the great rivers in the
world, he had not obtained his objective - the Pacific. Mackenzie
realized he had not been sufficiently trained in the art of location
to make full effective his efforts as an Explorer. He determined
then to get more education in that line, and the following winter
spent six months in England studying navigation, cartography and
Astronomy.
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Mussel
Waterfall
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Leaving
a second time from Fort Chipewyan on Oct. 10/1792 Mackenzie managed
to cross the Rockies through the pass that also bears his name.
To the Fur Traders, with canoes and voyageurs, any water route was
a highway much favoured to the overland alternatives. Mackenzie's
crew consisted of himself, his cousin Alexander Mackay, six voyageurs
and two Indians as hunters and interpreters as well as Mackenzie's
faithful companion, his dog. Their vessel was a 26 foot birch bark
canoe with a four foot nine inch beam. Into the canoe three thousand
pounds of provisions, arms, ammunition and trade goods were loaded.
The bark craft was only paper thin but it carried ten men and three
thousand pounds of gear. Mackenzie ran into great difficulty at
the Peace River Canyon where the Peace River cuts through the wall
of the Rockies. The party fought it's way up the canyon, then by
scouting ahead determined that no boat could navigate such a water
route.
Mackenzie's
Journal states, "We now continued our toilsome and perilous
progress with the line West by North, and as we proceeded the rapidity
of the rivers current increased, so that in the distance of two
miles we were obliged to unload four times, and carry everything
but the canoe; indeed, in many places, it was with the utmost difficulty
that we could prevent her from being dashed to pieces against the
rocks by the violence of the eddies. At five we had proceeded to
where the river was one continuos rapid. Here we again took everything
out of the canoe, in order to tow her up with the line, though the
rocks were shelving as greatly to increase the toil and hazard of
that operation. At length, however, the agitation of the water was
so great, that a wave striking on the bow of the canoe broke the
line, and
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Mossy
Trees
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filled
us with inexpressible dismay, as it appeared impossible that the
vessel could escape from being dashed to pieces, and those who were
in her from perishing. Another wave, however, more propitious than
the former, drove her out of the tumbling water, so that the men
were enabled to bring her ashore, and though she had been carried
over the rocks by these swells which left them naked a moment after,
the canoe had received no material injury. The men were, however,
in such a state from their late alarm, that it would not only have
been unavailing but imprudent to have proposed any further progress
at present, particularly as the river above us, as far as we could
see, was one white sheet of foaming water. That the discouragements,
difficulties, and dangers, which had hitherto attended the progress
of the enterprise, should have excited a wish in several of those
who were engaged in it to discontinue the pursuit, might be naturally
expected; and indeed it began to be muttered on all sides that there
was no alternative but to return."
The
party persevered and fought its way about half way up the canyon,
then by scouting ahead determined that no boat could navigate such
a water route. They camped for the night on a flat above the river,
and on the morning of May 21st, because it was rainy and the men
fatigued and disheartened, Mackenzie allowed them to rest until
eight a.m. when he sent Mr. Mackay with three men and two Indians
to look for a portage route. The next day they cut a road up the
mountain and brought their baggage ( 3000 pounds less the food they
had consumed ) up from the river.
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Petroglyph
at Elcho
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After
getting their baggage up, Mackenzie has stated; "The whole
of the party proceeded with no small degree of apprehension to fetch
the canoe and as soon as we had recovered from our fatigue, we advanced
with it up the mountain, having the line doubled and fastened successively
as we went up onto the stumps; while a man at the end of it, hauled
it around a tree, holding it on and shifting it as we proceeded;
so that we may be said, with strict truth, to have warped the canoe
up the mountain." On the 23rd of May they advanced three miles,
running into fallen timber and Devil's club, which added to their
already considerable difficulties. They had passed most of the canyon
and were down again on the water from where they could see the awesome
force of the Peace River as it fights for its freedom from this
rocky straightjacket." It was really awful to behold with what
infinite force the water drives against the rocks on one side, and
with what impetuous strength it is repelled to the other; it then
falls back, as it were, into a more straight but rugged passage,
over which it is tossed in high foaming, half formed billows as
far as the eye could follow it.
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Freshwater
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"Several
days later they came upon an Indian encampment. These people had
not previously seen white men, but had some iron which they had
procured by trade with other natives who had journeyed a great length
to the sea. They did not know of any river that flowed to the Ocean,
but they did know of a large river that flowed to the South. Mackenzie
engaged one of the Indians to go with his party as a guide. Several
days later on June 12 they found the height of land and they were
now entering into the watershed of the Pacific Ocean. Scouting ahead,
two men brought back fearful tales of rapids, rocks and windfalls.
Their new guide stated he wished to return to his people. He had
been alarmed in going down some of the Rapids.
Three
days later on June 17th they arrived on the banks of the Fraser
River. Mackenzie wrote, "At length we enjoyed, after all our
toil and anxiety, the inexpressible satisfaction of finding ourselves
on the bank of a navigable river on the West side of the first great
range of mountains."
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Kynoch
Snow Slide
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Mackenzie
started heading downriver and as he traveled learned of hostile
natives and impassable river conditions ahead. The people told Mackenzie
that they had traded with the people of the coast by traveling overland
to the West. It took six days of travel they said and the trail
was easy, without mountains and had been traveled so often that
the path was well marked. At the Western end of the journey they
met the people of a coastal valley with whom they bartered their
dressed leathers and furs for metals, and beads. The Indians were
telling Mackenzie of the route from the Fraser River up the West
Road River ( Blackwater River ) to the Bella Coola River and the
sea, the first commercial overland route in British Columbia. The
stories of the evil nature of the natives downriver and the tough
waters convinced Mackenzie to take the overland route to the West.
Without the guidance of Indians, Mackenzie would have been unlikely
to reach the Western Sea.
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Alpine
Backpacking
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The
explorers had to backtrack a long ways upriver to a point that they
could start heading out the westward river to the Coast. There were
many indications that they were on an Indian trade trail to the
sea. The path was well marked, following natural contours; dwellings
were frequent and meetings with Indians more than occasional. Many
of the Indians had been to the coast and one party included a woman
of the Coastal tribe. Mackenzie had crossed the plateau country
West of the Fraser. The village of Algatcho had been passed and
they had from there seen the seen the high white peaks of the coast
range rising South and West of them. From Algatcho they had plunged
down swampy meadows to the banks of the Dean River, which they crossed
on a raft. They started the ascent through the Rainbow Mountains,
a small extinct volcano range northeast of the coast range proper.
The mountains were highly coloured with ridges of red lava shingles.
Some of the slopes were creamy white striped with red.....Mackenzie
now understood what the Indian had meant by" the mountains
that bleed "They climbed over a summit and, . . . it began
to hail, rain and snow, nor could we find any shelter but the leeward
side of a huge rock. The wind also rose into a tempest, and the
weather was as distressing as any I had ever experienced."
From the slopes of the Rainbow Mountains they looked upon a great
range of glacier-clad peaks, at the foot of which ran the river
which would carry them to the sea.
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Pictograph
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One
stupendous mountain rose so high its snow-clad summit was lost in
the clouds. "We continued to descend till we came to the brink
of a precipice, from whence our guides discovered the river to us,
and a village on it's banks. This precipice, or rather succession
of precipices's is covered with large timber, some of the loftiest
cedar and fir I had ever seen." Mackenzie had descended into
the Bella Coola Valley through the steeply precipitous valley of
Burnt Bridge creek, thirty miles from where the Bella Coola river
pours into the sea. Where the creek entered the Bella Coola river
they rested at a community which was dubbed "Friendly Village"
because of the hospitality of it's native inhabitant's. The feast
to which their new hosts treated them illustrated that here was
a land of abundance and stability and he realized he was among a
people who had attained a high degree civilization.
Mackenzie
found the Natives very dependent on the Salmon runs and very superstitious
so not to displease the Salmon Gods. From here Mackenzie and his
men were transported in thirty foot dugout canoes by the Nuxalk
Rivermen. Mackenzie was truly amazed with the boat handling techniques
of the Rivermen as they effortlessly poled their way downriver through
columns of water and the tallest trees Mackenzie had ever seen.
They landed the canoes ten or twelve miles downstream and came upon
a large village. The explorers toured the village, which was by
far the largest they had ever seen, Mackenzie named it 'Great Village'.
South of the village a giant mountain rose to an altitude the explorers
considered must be two miles. Its sides were hung with glaciers
and in the late afternoon sun it's crevices and ribs looked like
a huge monster rearing into the heavens. Twice the heavy thunder
of a spring icefall shook the air, and the Indians all stopped and
stared worshipfully up at the mountain. Noosgultz! they cried. The
senior chief of the Great Village provided Mackenzie with a canoe
and five of his men including one they called Young Chief, to take
Mackenzie and his men to the sea. The poles which had propelled
them downriver were now put aside and were replaced with paddles
for Ocean going. Mackenzie had arrived at the head an inland fjord
of the Pacific Ocean. By afternoon the strong inflow wind had come
up.
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Grizzly
Tracks
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Mackenzie
and his crew bucked the weather out the inlet but were forced into,
and set up camp in Green Bay. The Young Chief caught and killed
a large porcupine which they had for dinner. The next day they were
on the water early in the morning heading west out Burke Channel.
They rounded the dreaded Mesachie ( Evil ) Nose into the calm waters
of Labouchere channel and then into the Dean Channel. Here they
met three canoes carrying fifteen men, and when they closed with
them the men started talking with Young Chief. "One moon ago,"
one of the Indians said, "two big canoes were here filled with
whitemen. Bad White Men. One man, Chief called "Macubah",
he shot at my friends and me. One other bad man, white man, called
"Bensins", hit me across back with long knife. "White
man bad" the Indian chanted. Historians believe that "Macubah"
and "Bensins" were the Indian's interpretations for the
names of Captain Vancouver and
his naturalist, Menzies. At the mouth of Elcho harbor they found
a rock which had the appearance of being fortified. They were now
surrounded by ten canoe loads of natives who appeared to be restless.
Some of the natives appeared to be trying to annoy the whitemen,
while others kept inviting them to visit their village in Elcho
harbor. Mackenzie, fearful there would be mischief if he were to
go there, refused. About sunset all the natives departed, taking
with them Young Chief. At sundown the men retired and a double watch
was established. Nothing occurred in the night to disturb them.
Next
morning two canoes came from the village in the bay for trading
purposes. Young chief rode in one of the canoes, and when he landed
he tried to convince Mackenzie that he should leave at once. He
explained "These people are from another nation, the Bella
Bella, that live among the islands in the setting sun. They are
as thick as mosquitoes and will kill you. They are planning an attack
now." Mackenzie and his voyageurs did not like the sound's
of this. They certainly were not in a desirable position for defense.
Mackenzie
had quite a reputation for strength and fierceness that the crew
respected and the voyageurs pleaded Mackenzie to head back. "I
have work to do here," Mackenzie replied. "When it is
finished we will go back, and not before." Two canoe loads
of people were seen approaching, but they contained five men and
their families rather than warriors from the west. Mackenzie, however
was becoming apprehensive and commanded his men to load the canoe
ready for an immediate departure. He managed to get an astronomic
reading. Then, even in the sight of approaching canoes, he calmly
mixed some vermillion (salmon roe) in melted bear grease and inscribed
in large characters on the southeast face of the rock on which they
slept last night, this brief memorial:
Alex
Mackenzie
from Canada
by land
22d July 1793
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Alexander
Mackenzie's Cairn
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In
order to relieve tension, Mackenzie allowed a move eastward up the
channel. They landed near the mouth of Cascade Inlet. He managed
to get a reading from the stars which gave him pleasure; "I
had now determined my situation, which is the most fortunate circumstance
of my long, perilous and painful journey." It was ten in the
evening when he had finished his recordings and gave his men permission
to start the return journey. This they did with great enthusiasm.
At four thirty the next
morning they had paddled to Porcupine cove and a few hours later
they pulled the canoe up on the beach at the Bella Coola village.
The explorers proceeded upriver, being received hospitably at the
numerous villages. Mackenzie again admired the river skills of the
Nuxalk boatmen who were fishing and traveling on the river. When
they were following riverside trails they passed through the finest
timber Mackenzie had ever seen. Some of the cedars were 24 feet
in girth and tremendously high.
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Pristine
Creeks
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The
explorers arrived at Friendly Village on Burnt Bridge creek and
visited with their friends for three hours. The Nuxalk gave them
all the smoked salmon they wished to carry and they set out on the
trail up the mountain. Every man of Friendly village accompanied
them for the first hour, then parted from them with signs of regret.
The explorers left behind the summer of the Bella Coola valley and
camped that night on top of the edge of the snow fields. They were
so tired they could hardly crawl about to get firewood and after
a hearty supper of roast salmon they sat about the fire and talked
of their adventures, delighting in the feeling of being almost out
of danger and well on their way homeward.
"Such
was the depth of precipices below," commented Mackenzie in
his diary, "and the height of the mountains above, with the
rude and wild magnificence of the scenery around, that I shall not
attempt to describe such an astonishing and awful combination of
objects: of which indeed, no description can convey an adequate
idea."
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Link
Lake
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A man
of extraordinary physical strength, determination and perseverance,
Mackenzie's route to the Pacific proved too difficult for others
to follow, but this does not diminish the value of his great 117
day expedition across Wild America. In 1802 Mackenzie was knighted
Sir Alexander Mackenzie by King George 111, and recognized as leader
of the first european expedition to cross the North American continent
from the Atlantic to the Pacific north of Mexico. Had Mackenzie
failed to complete his epic journey across the continent to the
Pacific Coast perhaps this rich coastal territory we know as British
Columbia would probably belong to another country, other than Canada.
Mackenzie was only 29 years old when he and his men made the extraordinary
overland journey to Bella Coola.
Sir
Alexander Mackenzie died in Britain in March 1820 at the age of
56. Mackenzie's Rock, on the north shore of Dean Channel and at
the mouth of Elcho harbour, is marked with a large cairn and preserved
in Sir Alexander Mackenzie Provincial Park. It has only been 210
years since Mackenzie and his hardy Voyageurs visited the West Coast,
not a long time ago in comparison to the history of the old country
Europe. The awesome natural beauty of the area remains as it was
and little has changed on the Central Coast since those days.
Come
to Bella Coola and relive the experience, and the majesty
of Sir Alexander Mackenzies incredible overland and nautical
route to the Pacific Coast on the Alexander Mackenzie Heritage
Trail.
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Bella
Coola Grizzly Tours Inc.
Box 336, Bella Coola, British Columbia,
Canada,
V0T 1C0
Phone: (250) 982-0098
Fax: (250) 982-0097
Toll
Free: 1 866-946-0640
Email us: info@bcgrizzlytours.com
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