So I've spent about a grand on my camera equipment (body, lenses) and forgot to save anything for the lighting equipment, doh!
Basically (though you should already know this) a camera is only as good as the light that comes into it, cameras capture light and make a mess when they try to amplify the dark. When I made the move from a point-and-shoot to a SLR I figured I'd get a 50mm lens because it was the cheapest lens that opened up to f1.8, and i wanted to be able to take pictures in the living room (ok my kids) without a flash. Jump to 6 months later I now know that 50mm lens lets in just as much light as a 24mm lens but needs to be shot at least 1/60th of second to be in focus whereas a 24mm lens can be shot at 1/25th of a second, even at f2.8.
The crux of the problem is still that at f2.8 a full face is unlikely to be all in focus until about f8 on a 50mm and f5 on a 24mm which means i need a flash. I used a bounce flash (old school flash aimed at the ceiling or wall) and loved the soft light or occasional color cast from the paint on the wall, but the shadows made dark wells under the eyes.
So i need a soft box which should eliminate shadows from the area that it covers, but, i spent all of my money on the SLR and lenses.
Solution
Cardboard box, tin foil, tape, knife, wireless flash kit,
I got the wireless flash from Ebay with two receivers ($20) which i use with old flashes from my wifes old SLR setup. The trigger just attaches to the camera hot show and the recivers are like little hot shoes them selves.
I upgraded the antenna to extend the range and reliability.
For the softbox i got an office max cardboard box and some reynolds tinfoil. i used the size of the box as a template and cut some pieces. Remember to cut a mirror image because they are Diastereomers , so two of each hand (lateral inversion). Also make them so that the sum of two wider ends equals the size the to opening of the box, measure this by placing to strips next to each other and marking where they overlap:
It is much easier to score then cut with scissors than knife. I also taped all the sides to prevent the foil from tearing, it made it much more durable. When tapping two pieces together the tape can electro statically attract the foil which can muck things up, so i found it easier to pre-tape with small pieces of tape before applying wider tape.
Look kind of like a NASA heat shield.
Now it's ready to fold and tape into the box like a funnel (after cutting a hole in the box of course) This hole is where the flash gets tapped in.
I taped a garbage can bag to the top and then started shooting:
I'm in love with the quality of soft light i and the sharpness that it allows. I put a handle on the top of the box (cut a hole in it, and basically strapped the flash to the hole in the back.
This is at 300mm F22 1/125sec, with a Nikon D70s (which is for sale here ) You can click on the image to see full version. Its amazing how much more detail comes out of the shot with soft light.
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can this be used on people?, or is it too small?
Perfect for faces, a little small for full length, but still beats bare flash.
For great light without the bare flash glare, you might try a diffuser like Gary Fong's LightSphere II Cloud Flash Diffuser. It's especially good for people portraiture on the go. Here's my write up about it.
Step 1) Cut a hole in the box...
Sorry. I couldn't resist. I love the blog layout. Tweak it out a bit though, so it does some justice to the photos. I found you from Strobist. Congratulations on making the front page!
I've been using these for a while with pretty good results. Here is a set on flickr with photos I took with my ghetto softbox.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/planalpha/sets/72057594079531401/
Great project. If you feel the need to turn the light in on the subject, I've got a set of posts describing how to build a light tent.
Can this be used on small, highly detailed pieces like jewellery where light reflection off the metal causes difficulty?
I love this though - it is fantastic!
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http://www.madcomments.co.uk/
Nice article, but I have to ask... If you're into photography, then why are your construction pictures so dark?
Guess you could call the dark pictures a before and after.
I didn't read all the comments but let me suggest something. You used regular tin foil wich makes it a little more prone to ripping with the use.
To create a more resistent and more permanent I used a sheet of fire proof foil. This is sold at outdoor stores like REI. One bag will cost you more than a whole roll of Reynolds tin foil but you will not need to replace it even after storing. I use this foil paper for reflectors and I haven't had to replace it in about 3 years.
>If you're into photography, then why are your construction pictures so dark?
Oh derrr - because he didn't have the light box then!!!!!!
Hey dude, I dig it. I've been looking for a solution like this.
Thanks!
By the way, your captcha verification thing is a little long.
Where are them photos of deh kitty? :D
This could save me some serious money, very inventive. I can get rid of the crappy mirror now.
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Like it. Will try it.
By the way, I think your cat is too...well...fat. Well-fed, I guess.
Nice job. Can I use this soft box
with M-H Bulb or with the CFL lamps.
If yes then how many CFL I need to fit in the box for Digital photography. Also Wattage of CFL tubes? Thanks