I’d always assumed that other kosher salts were the same. But one day, my supermarket ran out of the Old Reliable and I bought a box of Morton’s. Suddenly, I lost my knack for getting the salt spot-on: everything was oversalted.

Edward Schneider gives his version of Joël Robuchon’s pasta alla carbonara.

Slipping something tasty under the skin of a chicken before roasting flavors the flesh and protects the white meat from drying out.

At a fancy hotel, we found the solution to our sandwich problem: putting one of the central ingredients on the side.

Few people make french fries at home because of the challenge posed by working with hot oil — and lots of it. But there is a way: start with cold oil and raise the temperature slowly.

To the surprise of many who’ve never eaten it, goat flesh is mild, and so intense stock-based sauces can be a little too intrusive.

Stuffed mushrooms are a perfect reminder of what a good thing the ordinary white mushroom is: it holds up very well against a lot of the exotic (but still cultivated) competition, if not against wild porcini, chanterelles or morels. Serve them with drinks, in lieu of a first course.

There are lots of uses for leftover gravy. Want to share yours?

On this recent trip to London we ate in six restaurants, and, to my recollection, four of them served anchovies in one form or another