The technologist’s life is full of questions. Ask Ars is full of answers. Since 1998, Ask Ars has tapped into the power of Ars’ editors and readers alike. After a long hiatus, we’re proud to relaunch Ask Ars, made possible by CDW.

Ask Ars is aimed at providing useful answers along with a variety of perspectives to the questions that you ask. We can’t answer them all, so here the general criteria we use in picking questions to take on:

  • General Applicability: we want to address issues that many people will be interested in.
  • Questions with perspectives: the best questions are the ones with no single answer.
  • Explorative: for the most part, we want questions that will allow the community to delve deeper into issues both common and uncommon.

Ready to ask? Drop us a line.

Ask Ars: what's the relationship between CPU clockspeed and performance?

Ask Ars: what's the relationship between CPU clockspeed and performance?

In 1998, Ask Ars was an early feature of the newly launched Ars Technica. Now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our question bag, provide our own take, then tap the wisdom of our readers. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: Intel's Sandy Bridge launch just brought its desktop CPU line up to 3.8GHz, but I remember that the Pentium 4 got up to 3.8GHz before being cancelled. So why is it that Sandy Bridge is just now getting to the clock speed levels that the Pentium 4 was at years ago? And how is it that Sandy Bridge still manages to outperform the older Pentium 4, even though it has a lower clock speed?

The relationship between clockspeed and performance isn't nearly as straightforward as it used to seem—not that it ever was all that simple.  To understand why different CPUs at different clockspeeds perform in different ways, we'll first look at how the CPU processes instructions. 

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How to build your own computer: Ask Ars DIY Series, Part II—software

How to build your own computer: Ask Ars DIY Series, Part II—software
feature

In 1998, Ask Ars was an early feature of the newly launched Ars Technica. Now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our question bag, provide our own take, then tap the wisdom of our readers. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Instead of replying to a reader's question on Ask Ars, we've got Part II of new PC-building guide, complete with informative (and entertaining) video clips that both inform and entertain. Last week we were all about hardware assembly. Today, we're picking up where we left off, covering first boot and software tweaking. If you're in the process of building your own PC and are wondering what to do now that the hardware is in place, read on.

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How to build your own computer: Ask Ars DIY Series, Part I—hardware

How to build your own computer: Ask Ars DIY Series, Part I—hardware
feature

In 1998, Ask Ars was an early feature of the newly launched Ars Technica. Now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our question bag, provide our own take, then tap the wisdom of our readers. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

For Ask Ars, we typically respond to a reader question about some specific tech quandary, but this time around we've got something special. We've put together a new PC-building guide, complete with video selections that both inform and entertain. Our original guide hasn't been updated since the Celeron overclocking era, and many readers wrote in to let us know that it was long in the tooth. So if you've been thinking about building your own, or you're curious about what goes into the build process, this Ask Ars is for you.

This guide is aimed at people who have not built a PC before, but who know the basics ins and outs of DIY life.

In recent years, building your own computer has become more of a niche technophile activity than it was in the earlier part of the decade. Few people see the benefits of expending the effort to figure out how all the different components of a PC fit, screw, and plug together when you can just as easily fill out a customization form at any number of online retailers and have your own custom build arrive in just a matter of weeks.

But we know that there are still good reasons to go the do-it-yourself route. Our System Guides continue to see amazing traffic, and staff members (some, but not all) are still exercising their Type A personalities and building their own PCs. Ars has a long history of supporting PC builders, and this guide is designed to bring first-time and relatively green builders into the fold.

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Ask Ars: Finally upgrading to Windows 7—should I go 32- or 64-bit?

Ask Ars: Finally upgrading to Windows 7—should I go 32- or 64-bit?

Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. And now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then we'll turn to the community for your take. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: I'm finally ready to drop Windows XP and move to Windows 7. Should I go with the 32-bit or 64-bit version of the operating system?

Short answer: 64-bit.

Long answer: 64-bit, but you may not see much real difference. Before explaining why, there is an important contraindication to be aware of: if you use any 16-bit Windows applications or DOS applications, you'll have to either stick with 32-bit Windows, or run those applications in a virtual machine (or, for DOS programs, an environment such as DOSBox). 64-bit Windows supports 64-bit and 32-bit applications, but 16-bit ones are consigned to the trash can of history.

In practice, the only advantage of using 64-bit Windows is that you can install more physical memory. 32-bit versions of desktop Windows are limited to 4GiB of physical memory, and thanks to dubious compatibility restrictions, they can't even offer that much. Every byte of memory in a system has a physical address, a number representing that byte of memory, and on 32-bit desktop Windows, those addresses are only 32 bits long (or rather, the addresses are between 36 and 64 bits long depending on which bit of software is manipulating them, but only 32 bits are actually used by Windows). This should allow 232 addresses, and hence 232 bytes—4GiB—of memory.

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Ask Ars: what is a CPU thread?

Ask Ars: what is a CPU thread?

In 1998, Ask Ars was an early feature of the newly-launched Ars Technica. Now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our question bag, provide our own take, then tap the wisdom of our readers. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: What is a CPU thread (as in "multithreaded CPU," "simultaneous multithreading," etc.)?

Tech pundits, analysts, and reviewers often speak of "multithreaded" programs, or even "multithreaded processors," without ever defining what, exactly, a "thread" is. Truth be told, some of those using the term probably don't really know what it means, but the concept isn't really very hard to grasp. At least, it isn't hard when you look at it from the point of view of the CPU (the operating system definition of a "thread" is another matter).

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Ask Ars: What are some networking alternatives to Ethernet and WiFi?

Ask Ars: What are some networking alternatives to Ethernet and WiFi?

In 1998, Ask Ars was an early feature of the newly-launched Ars Technica. Now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our question bag, provide our own take, then tap the wisdom of our readers. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: I rent an apartment where I can't do any substantial modifications to the rooms. There are a ton of WiFi networks competing for the same spectrum, so doing stuff like streaming video across the home network is choppy. In a perfect world, I'd run CAT-6 cable through the place and set up a gigabit Ethernet network, but that's not practical. There is coax running to each room, and I'm vaguely familiar with powerline networking. What are my networking options, and what is the performance of these technologies like?

Fortunately for you, there are multiple technology alliances and advocacy groups working at developing alternative methods for spreading the Internet to all corners of your house using existing wiring, including via coax cables and the electrical wiring in your house. Some methods may sound a little dubious, but they've gotten much more reliable in recent years. The main reason they are not widely used is that they can be pretty expensive, especially if you have multiple computers you want to connect. But if you're dedicated to shining the Internet's light into the darkest corners of your residence, one of these alternatives may be a good solution.

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Ask Ars: How can I make my music collection more accessible?

Ask Ars: How can I make my music collection more accessible?

Question: How can I liberate my music collection from my single PC, store it somewhere central on my LAN, and access it from multiple locations?

This question is a little like the onsite backup one we answered last week, and what methods you can use depend on how simple, expensive, and extensible you want your centralized music collection to be. Clearly, there are a ton of ways to tackle this problem, and this answer does not aim to be comprehensive. Rather, we're just throwing a few ideas out there that newbies to networked music sharing should investigate further. (Regular Ars readers should feel free to pitch in with further suggestions in the comments.)

On the low end, you don't even really need to move your media off your PC in order to liberate it. Both Home Sharing on iTunes and Windows Media Center make it easy enough to stream media directly off one computer to others in the same network. But this method can create a lot of extra work for the central computer, and makes it hard to sync devices, since non-local music through these services isn't accessible for that purpose (you can download music between computers with Home Sharing, but this might fragment your collection and will take up extra space). A better solution is to set up a server or a network-attached storage (NAS) device that can be accessed over your home network, which gives you more options and has varying costs.

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Ask Ars: What's the best way to back up my computers on-site?

Ask Ars: What's the best way to back up my computers on-site?

In 1998, Ask Ars was an early feature of the newly launched Ars Technica. Now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our question bag, provide our own take, then tap into the wisdom of our readers. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: What is the smartest on-site backup strategy for my house? Time Machine? NAS? External SATA? DVD-R?

There's almost no end to backup solutions and configurations these days, and virtually no excuse for not backing up your computer. Even if you have only a few important files, it's worth it to shell out for an 8GB USB flash drive to store copies on; if you don't, you'll cry out that $20 you saved in anguished tears.

For the most part, backup storage solutions vary on three axes: speed, cost, and flexibility. We'll go over a few different types of storage, and you can determine what's best for you based on your setup.

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Ask Ars: How can I secure data I need to carry with me?

Ask Ars: How can I secure data I need to carry with me?

In 1998, Ask Ars was an early feature of the newly-launched Ars Technica. Now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our question bag, provide our own take, then tap the wisdom of our readers. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: What's the most secure way to transport 100GB of data via Sneakernet?

Sharing small files across the Internet with a good amount of security keeps getting easier, but large datasets can still create long, painful upload times. In this video edition of Ask Ars, we cover the most secure ways to transport large datasets by trekking the dusty trail, otherwise known as Sneakernet, even with predators in hot pursuit.

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Ask Ars: Where should I store my passwords?

Ask Ars: Where should I store my passwords?

Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. And now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then we'll turn to the community for your take. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: What are the best practices when using a password-keeping service, and what are the merits and disadvantages of local vs. cloud-based password storage?

With every website requiring users to register a password-protected account to see its content, password management systems have become very popular. We probably don't need to tell you that one of the most popular strategies for managing passwords—using the same password for every account—is a terrible thing to do.

Because of this, password-keeping programs have been making gains, but using one can be dangerous to your privacy if done incorrectly There are certain features and practices that will keep your logins more secure, so we'll go through a few different services and things you can do to crank up the security.

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Ask Ars: How can I securely erase the data from my SSD drive?

Ask Ars: How can I securely erase the data from my SSD drive?

Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. And now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then we'll turn to the community for your take. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

How can I safely erase the data from my SSD drive? I've seen a few pieces in recent days about how traditional "secure delete" programs fail to work properly on SSD drives, so what tools are available and useful?

As pointed out in a recent research article, there isn't a standard method for securely deleting data from a solid state drive. Hard disk drives have had this problem solved for ages, and can execute a secure delete by filling the space occupied by an incriminating file with zeroes or multiple writes of different characters. We'll go into why this approach and some other secure erase methods don't really work on an SSD, especially not for individual files, and then describe some approaches you might take to make sure all your old data is gone for good.

We did an Ask Ars not long ago concerning the way that SSDs handle deletion and cleanup of old files, and we'll assume you've read it or have equivalent knowledge. Basically, the issue with SSDs is this—let's say your SSD is a pirate, and your data is buried treasure. If you tell an SSD pirate to make his buried treasure disappear, all he really does is burn the treasure map. The buried treasure is still out there for someone to find if they know where to look. This isn't the case for all SSDs in the long term, but it is the case for all of them in the short term.

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Ask Ars: Ergonomic Keyboards 101

Ask Ars: Ergonomic Keyboards 101

Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. And now, as then, it's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then we'll turn to the community for your take. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

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Ask Ars: How should my organization approach the IPv6 transition?

Ask Ars: How should my organization approach the IPv6 transition?
feature

Whenever Ars runs an article about the increasing global scarcity of IPv4 addresses or an IPv6-related topic, we inevitably hear from some readers that they would like to see Ars available over IPv6. We thought we’d explain why we haven’t made that move yet.

Why should you care?

First though, we want to help your organization or business decide if it should be pursuing the goal of making your websites or applications available on IPv6. There are so many kinds of businesses and applications out there that it's hard to generalize, but the first question you should ask yourself is whether making this transition even makes sense right now.

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Ask Ars: What is the best way to use a Li-ion battery?

Ask Ars: What is the best way to use a Li-ion battery?

Question: How do I take care of a Lithium Ion battery to prolong its life?  Should I charge it frequently or drain it fully before charging it?

Lithium ion batteries are particular about their operating conditions, and there are a lot of small things that can contribute to better quality of life. Li-ion batteries have a reasonably finite lifespan and can hold only a fraction of their original capacity after a few years, but things like operating temperature, how long the battery spends plugged in, how the battery is used, and the charge cycling you asked about can contribute to how long the battery lasts. If Michael Pollan had to sum up ideal Li-ion battery usage, he might say something like, "Use your battery. Not too much. Mostly for small apps."

One of the worst things you can do to a Li-ion battery is to run it out completely all the time. Full discharges put a lot of strain on the battery, and it's much better practice to do shallow discharges to no lower than 20 percent. In a way, this is like people running for exercise— running a few miles a day is fine, but running a marathon every day is generally not sustainable. If your Li-ion powered device is running out of juice on a daily basis, you're decreasing its overall useful lifespan, and should probably work some charging stations into your day or change your devices' settings so that it's not churning through its battery so quickly.

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Ask Ars: What are those symbols on the back of the iPhone?

Ask Ars: What are those symbols on the back of the iPhone?

"Ask Ars" was one of the first features of the newly-born Ars Technica back in 1998. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then we'll turn to the community for your take. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: There are a bunch of symbols and numbers on the backs of iPhones. I know what 16GB means; what about the rest?

A jumble of symbols have been trying to communicate with us from the back of the iPhone since it launched, and indeed, from a number of other non-Apple communication devices. What distinction do they mean? Compatibility with different radio frequencies? Recyclability? Edibility?

The truth is a bit more boring. Most of these symbols indicate only that the iPhone has received approval to use the various frequency spectra reserved for mobile and wireless communications and that it has passed various safety checks. We dove into hundreds of pages of regulations to see what the iPhone's various tramp stamps mean.

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Ask Ars: If I'm printing in color, should I get a laser or an inkjet printer?

Ask Ars: If I'm printing in color, should I get a laser or an inkjet printer?

Question: So I want to print in color, and with the cost of color lasers coming down, I am wondering: laser versus inkjet? When does laser make sense?

It's true that the cost of color laser printers has come down significantly, particularly on the higher end. Most still don't beat inkjet printers in terms of price, but some of their other advantages—speed and volume, namely—can make a high-end laser printer a good investment if you have the up-front money for it. The higher cost per page of a middling laser printer will quickly close the price gap over time between itself and a higher end printer, so the only reason you'd go that route is if you need to start printing right away but only have a couple hundred dollars to spend up front.

Color laser printer prices now bottom out in the $200-$300 range, while higher-end ones are priced at $1,000 and beyond. Inkjet printers, on the other hand, can be had for under $100. But the price of hardware is somewhat less important in dealing with printers than the cost of inks and toner, and this issue complicates things a lot. There are many, many ways that you can approach this, mostly because of the wide variety of retail sources for both ink and toner cartridges. There's also the question of refilling those cartridges, which is a whole other beast.

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Ask Ars: What do I do with a dead UPS?

Ask Ars: What do I do with a dead UPS?

Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. It's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then we'll turn to the community for your take. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: My UPS is dead and I need to dispose of it. Is there any kind of special consideration here (is it dangerous?), or can I just dump it into the trash?

The answers to those three questions are yes, it can be, and no. Most of the batteries used in UPS systems are lead-acid, the same technology used in a car battery, so most of the things you've heard about those apply here. The batteries are sealed, and as long as that seal remains intact, the biggest danger—exposure to the sulfuric acid within—is minimal. Hit it with the compaction used by most garbage trucks, however, and you run the risk of giving someone an acid bath.

Even if the acid weren't an issue, however, you wouldn't want to just dump the battery into the local municipal waste stream. Lead is a potent toxin, with both immediate and chronic effects, so it needs to be disposed of properly. That's also true of cadmium, an ingredient of the primary alternative to lead-acid batteries, the Ni-Cd. So, no matter which type of UPS you've got, the contents of its battery are toxic. Try to avoid eating it, and don't just dump it in the trash.

Because they have toxic ingredients, disposal of batteries is regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency. The rules there are rich in bureaucratese (an example: "Batteries, as described in Sec. 273.9, that are not yet wastes under part 261 of this chapter, including those that do not meet the criteria for waste generation in paragraph (c) of this section."), but the EPA has also provided some human-readable advice. The feds are not the only ones with regulations; most states and a number of municipalities have their own rules governing how spent batteries are handled. The end result of this regulation is that the manufacturers of batteries that contain toxic waste are responsible for recycling them once they're no longer in use.

Notice that's "recycled," and not "disposed of." The rules require that the batteries get recycled, and many major manufacturers have banded together to form a non-profit company that collects the batteries and sends them into a single recycling stream; the vast majority of the lead and cadmium reclaimed from batteries ends up right back in other batteries. Many companies have their own programs in place for returning the spent batteries to them (APC's program, for example, lets you download a prepaid shipping label online).

If your manufacturer is not so generous, you may still be in luck, as the non-profit mentioned above also helps collect the batteries from consumers. A trip to its homepage lets you enter a zip code and find a battery drop-off location. The EPA also recommends a similar resource.

If that's too much work, your state may make life even easier. In New York, for example, any place that sells batteries is required by law to accept them. As a result, the battery can be taken to any office supply, home improvement store, or drugstore.

So, in summary: your UPS's battery contains toxic ingredients; although these don't present a danger as long as the battery is intact, it's illegal to to dispose of it in the trash. Fortunately, you have plenty of options for getting rid of it safely, and with the knowledge that the toxic chemicals will be recycled.

Photo by carrotmadman6

Ask Ars: are "green" hard drives really all that green?

Ask Ars: are "green" hard drives really all that green?

Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. It's all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then we'll turn to the community for your take. To submit your own question, see our helpful tips page.

Question: How much of a difference do "green" drives actually make in a system build? Do you save enough power for it to be worthwhile, or is it just a marketing gimmick?

When a drive is "green," the designation usually just means that it runs on the slower side—5400 rotations per minute, as opposed to the more ubiquitous 7200 RPM. But in some cases, this slowdown can translate to drives that are quieter, cooler, and less power-hungry. We're not talking the same power savings as, say, switching to fluorescent light-bulbs from incandescent ones. But there are a few watts to be saved here, which makes green drives a decent choice for a platform that will see a lot of use, but doesn't necessarily need to be high-performance. (If you're really looking for power savings above all else, though, the absolute best option is a solid-state drive.)

The three features that are touted the most often by manufacturers of green drives, as we said, are their relatively quiet and cool operation and their lower power consumption. These specs are measured in decibels, degrees Celsius, and watts, respectively, and can usually be found on fact sheets for various drive models on the manufacturer's website (here's a Western Digital sampling) or from third-party benchmarks, if you don't trust Big Data Storage.

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Ask Ars: making a custom Windows USB install disk

Ask Ars: making a custom Windows USB install disk

Welcome to the re-launch of Ask Ars, brought to you by CDW! 

Re-launch, you ask? Why, yes! Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. Ask Ars is all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then comes the best part: we turn to the community for your take.

To launch, we reached out to some of our geekiest friends to solicit their burning questions. Without further ado, let's dive into our first question. Don't forget to send us your questions, too! To submit your question, see our helpful tips page.

Q: I've seen a few different recipes online for making a patched, updated install disk for Windows on a USB drive. What process do you guys recommend?

I'm not sure that I would go to the trouble of making and maintaining a patched and updated install disk. New Windows patches are published virtually every month, and occasionally more often. For a typical home user, creating a patched image, and keeping it up-to-date, is a greater burden than simply installing the vanilla operating system and hitting Windows Update. Installing from USB is worthwhile, as it's typically much faster (and means you don't have to bother with optical media any longer), but customizing the installed media is harder to justify.

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Ask Ars: Of solid state drives and garbage collection

Ask Ars: Of solid state drives and garbage collection

Welcome to the re-launch of Ask Ars, brought to you by CDW! 

Re-launch, you ask? Why, yes! Ask Ars was one of the first features of the newly born Ars Technica back in 1998. Ask Ars is all about your questions and our community's answers. Each week, we'll dig into our bag of questions, answer a few based on our own know-how, and then comes the best part: we turn to the community for your take.

To launch, we reached out to some of our geekiest friends to solicit their burning questions. Without further ado, let's dive into our first question. Don't forget to send us your questions, too! To submit your question, see our helpful tips page.

Let's get started with a question that was unthinkable in 1998!

Q: I've heard that some SSD controllers do "garbage collection" while others don't. Is this really that big of a deal, and if so, which controllers should I be on the lookout for?

To begin with, an SSD that doesn't do garbage collection would be like an elevator that only goes up—that is, it would never delete anything. However, some drives are able to do it more quickly than others, and some engage in a process called "idle garbage collection" that distributes the workload across periods of inactivity. But before we get into that, we'll take a minute to describe how and why an SSD does garbage collection, and why a drive that does only that would be a weak one indeed.

Solid state drives have two hangups that force them to deal with data differently than hard disk drives do: they can only erase data in larger chunks than they can write it, and their storage cells can only be written a certain number of times (10,000 is standard) before they start to fail. This makes tasks like modifying files much harder for SSDs than HDDs.

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How to Ask Ars

The technologist’s life is full of questions. Ask Ars is full of answers. Since 1998, Ask Ars has tapped into the power of Ars’ editors and readers alike. After a long hiatus, we’re proud to relaunch Ask Ars, made possible by CDW.

Ask Ars is aimed at providing useful answers along with a variety of perspectives to the questions that you ask. We can’t answer them all, so here the general criteria we use in picking questions to take on:

  • General Applicability: we want to address issues that many people will be interested in.
  • Questions with perspectives: the best questions are the ones with no single answer.
  • Explorative: for the most part, we want questions that will allow the community to delve deeper into issues both common and uncommon.

Ready to ask? Drop us a line.