Now: A dichotomy of authenticity and artifice, Chinatown's open gate at Grant and Bush (donated by China in 1969) hosts floods of tourists walking from Union Square to North Beach. Grant Street is packed with eight blocks of plastic and silk, some Chinese, some not, all part of the show. Stockton Street is the "behind the scenes" parallel neighbor to Grant, where Chinese residents shop. Alleys and sidestreets show ornate facades and balconies.
Then: The Mexican seaport village of Yerba Buena was here in the early 1800s, and the stretch of Grant Street (then called Calle de al Fundacion) between what is now Washington and Clay was laid down in 1835 (making it San Francisco's oldest street). Immigrants from China (fleeing oppression) began arriving in 1848 (one year prior to Gold Rush). Residents struggled for integration throughout late 1800s. The area was gradually sculpted into its present destination for visitors after 1906. See related postcards.
How To Get There: If you had a quarter for every tourist who asked someone in Union Square how to get to Chinatown, you would have a lot money. It's right around the corner. Stockton Street borders Union Square on the east. Grant is one more block east. Follow Grant two blocks north, and enter the gate at Bush Street. The California Street Cable Car does also cross through, although if you're coming from the Ferry Building, it will be $5 per person for a very short one-way ride. And FYI if you've never visited, "driving to Chinatown" is not something you want to try.

Chinatown Gate at Grant and Bush Street

Grant Avenue near Bush

Merchandise at Chinatown shop on Grant Avenue

Grant Avenue at Commercial Street

Golden Gate Bakery on Grant Avenue

St. Mary's Square, off Grant Avenue between Pine and California

Entrance to Waverly Place, at Sacramento Street near Grant Avenue

Waverly Place, just past Sacramento Street

Buildings on the west side of Waverly Place

Buildings on Waverly Place

Waverly Place, just past Clay Street

Decorative buildings on Waverly Place

Waverly Place, looking toward Washington Street

The end of Waverly Place, at Washington Street

Buildings on Washington Street between Waverly Place and Ross Alley

Entrance to Ross Alley, at Washington Street, just west of Waverly Place and Grant Avenue

Ross Alley, between Washington and Jackson Streets

Clothes hanging from a balcony on Ross Alley

Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley, off Grant between Washington and Jackson

Inside Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory on Ross Alley

Jackson Street, off Grant Avenue

Items for sale inside a shop on Grant Avenue in Chinatown

China Bazaar, at the corner of Grant Avenue and Sacramento Street

Light pole on Grant Avenue in Chinatown

Grant Avenue, between Jackson and Washington Streets

Intersection of Washington Street and Grant Avenue

Washington Street, looking east between Grant Avenue and Kearny Street

Portsmouth Square Park, from Washington Street near Kearny Street

Entrance to Portsmouth Square at Washington Street

Portsmouth Square, off Kearny between Clay and Washington

The Hilton Hotel on Kearny Street at Washington

Grocery on Stockton Street, Chinatown

Shop on Stockton Street, Chinatown

Jackson Street at Stockton Street in Chinatown

Stockton Street at Jackson Street, west of Grant Avenue in Chinatown

30-Stockton Bus on Stockton Street in Chinatown