Reviews

The Curlew, Junction Road, Bodiam, East Sussex

What happens to a former roadhouse when people stop using the road? The Curlew started life in the 17th century as a busy coaching inn on the main route between Hastings and London. Now it stands marooned on a sleepy junction in what seems, when you've been criss-crossing rural East Sussex trying to find it, like the middle of nowhere. All rather reminiscent of the explanation given by Psycho's Norman Bates for his lack of custom. "Twelve cabins, 12 vacancies. They moved away the highway."

Inside Reviews

The Black Swan Hotel, Market Place, Helmsley, North Yorkshire

Saturday, 20 August 2011

One hundred years ago, the first Michelin guide to Great Britain encouraged motorists to burn rubber by beating a path to recommended hotels. In 2011, just 20 of Michelin's early tips remain in its slender red volume. One robust survivor is the Black Swan in Helmsley, North Yorkshire. This well-heeled market town still attracts latter-day Mr Toads who relish a burn-up on the county's unpopulated roads. On Sundays, the market place is chock-a-block with gleaming motorcycles tended by owners in garish leathers. Poop poop!

Ondine, 2 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh

Saturday, 13 August 2011

I've visited Edinburgh many times over the years, for work and play. I've experienced the cultural highs of the Festival and some memorable lows (the world premiere of Tubular Bells 2 at Edinburgh Castle springs to mind). And though I've often eaten well, I've never eaten dazzlingly well. Edinburgh has plenty of good restaurants but great ones are elusive, particularly at the upper end of the market, where too many of the famous city-centre names prove to be disappointing tourist traps.

Chiswell Street Dining Rooms, 56 Chiswell Street, London EC1

Saturday, 6 August 2011

"So that's a table for two in the name of Walsh at 8pm," said the cheery voice on the phone. "And just to let you know, the table's booked for two hours." "I'm not hiring a rowing boat," I pointed out coldly. "I thought I was booking a table for dinner." "Two hours," said the voice, with an attempt at firmness. "But if you need more time, I'm sure that will be no problem."

Behesht, 1082-1096 Harrow Road, London, NW10

Sunday, 31 July 2011

Behesht doesn't stand on ceremony, but its food is a true Middle Eastern delight

Roganic, 19 Blandford Street, London W1U 3DH

Saturday, 30 July 2011

One of the questions I'm most often asked, when I tell people I review restaurants, is, 'Where have you been lately that's really special?'. And it's a difficult one to answer. The truth is, there aren't many places out there that really are that special. For every Fat Duck, there's a lot of ugly ducklings.

Gidleigh Park, Chagford, Devon

Sunday, 24 July 2011

Gidleigh Park's food is undeniably Michelin-worthy. As for the price and ambience...

Pebble Beach, Marine Drive, Barton-on-Sea, Hampshire

Saturday, 23 July 2011

"Pebble Beach, far away in time," you find yourself adapting Martha and the Muffins as you park the car on the clifftop drive. "Pebble Beach, far away in time, Pebble Beach..." And as you push the door, you feel you've stepped back 20 years in time, to a kinder, simpler age when all restaurant menus came in floppy leather (with photos of the shellfish platter), all dining-rooms were on a split level, with fleshy-orangey chairs, tables and curtains, and a wrought-iron fence as a "feature".

Roganic, 19 Blandford Street, London, W1

Sunday, 17 July 2011

Eating at Roganic is like a night out at the opera. But can it hit the high notes?

Daylesford Farmshop and Caf�, Daylesford nr Kingham, Gloucestershire

Saturday, 16 July 2011

Daylesford is probably the most famous farm shop in Britain. A retail heaven of organic gorgeousness on the edge of the Cotswolds, it has grown over the past 10 years into something between a mall and a Japanese temple, selling not just food and produce, but clothing, gardening equipment, homeware, yoga classes and spa treatments. Alex James, who lives nearby, once described it in The Independent as "absolutely ridiculous, fantastic and sexy", and gratefully recorded how Daylesford's gentrifying effect had sent the value of his house rocketing.