The exploration of snow-covered mountains of the
Huascarán begins in years 1.860 - 1.869 with the
appreciations of Naturalistic Wise person
Italian Antonio Raimondi who writes: "the view
of the mountain range of Yungay did so pleasant
impression to me, that I decided to examine it
but close by touching, so to speak, the snow
with the hand, this is to raise by the gorge
until its origin, to cross the made snow-white
mountain range and to happen that way to the
Province of Pomabamba".
To beginnings of century XX the exploration of
the Huascarán and the White Mountain range
become but rigorous in charge of the English
C.R. Enock, the North American Annie Peck and
the scientists German G Steinman (Geologist), W.
Sievers (Geographer), To Weberbauer (Botánico).
The first attempt to climb the Huascarán mount
by the expensive west makes Ingles C.R. Enock in
1904, arriving at about 5.100 mals of height.
That same year, Miss Annie S. Peck accompanied
by Swiss alpine guides R. Taugwalder and G
Zumtaugwald make the first attempt of climbing.
Two years later in the month of Julio of 1906
fail again in the attempt by the inexperience of
their common carriers. Finally, in the third
expedition the 03 of August of 1908, Miss Peck
assured to have reached the North summit of the
Huascarán of 6.555 mals, although they assure
that fué taken loaded until the top by Swiss
alpine guides R. Taugwalder and G Zumtaugwald.
20 of Julio of 1932:
The expedition of the Alpine Club German South
wind directed by the Dr Phillip Borchers, climbs
but the high South tip of the snow-covered mount
Huascarán for the first time. The mountain
climbers German P. Borchers, W.Bernard, E.Hein,
H. Hoerlin and Erwin Schneider, attended by the
Yungainos Néstor Montes and Faustino Rojo,
overcome he South tip (6.768 mals), placing in
the top, after 5 days of scaling, the flags
Peruvian and German. On the participation of
Peruvian in the scaling the Dr Borchers he
writes "Returning the eyes from the point in
which we were we saw with not little surprise
that two men followed to us in the ascent: they
were Néstor Montes and Faustino Rojo, both boys
more capable than we had, who handling the tense
rope perfectly made a species of particular
ascent "and E.Hein exclaimed "These were born
mountain climbers ".
In 1939, it was made completes expedition of the
Club German South wind, directed by the Dr Hans
Kinzl, conquering the North Huascarán (6.555
mals) with the W.Brecht mountain climbers, K.
Heckler, S. Roher, K.Sshmidt and H. Schweiser,
also attended by porteadores Yungainos.
The expeditions of the Alpine Club German South
wind, between years 1932 to 1939, conquered in
shining campaign summits of the mounts
snow-covered South and North Huascarán,
Artensoraju, North Huandoy, Chopicalqui, Hualcán,
Made snow-white North and South Glass, Quitaraju,
South Pucahirca, Contrahierbas and other summits
of the white Coordillera.
The following years several expeditions of
montañistas arrived at Yungay to conquer the top
of the tropical but high Mountain of the planet,
standing out the following expeditions until the
decade of 70s:
Summit of the North Huascarán
1953, 8 of June: Mexican expedition conformed by
And San Vicente and M. Villavicencia
1954, 11 of August: Expedition of Peruvian
soldiers conformed by S. Villanueva, G.Cornejo,
A.Yanac, J.Acosta and G.Yanac
1954, 14 of August: Of the Club White Mountain
range and North American expedition conformed by
A. Morales Arnao, A.Del Stream, M. Angels,
A.Creswell and L. Ortenburger
1961, 09 of June: Japanese expedition of the
University of Kwansei Gakuin
Summit of the South Huascarán
1953, 9 of July: Mexican expedition conformed by
1953, 04 of August: Expedition of Andean Club
White Mountain range conformed by Fortunato
Mautino, P. Yanac, M. A'ngeles, A.Yanac, and
1954, 12 of August: North American expedition
conformed by A.Creswell, L. Ortenburger, G.
Matthews, D. Michael and E. Vargas.
1955, 02 of August: German expedition conformed
by: H. Huber, H.Schmidt and P. Méndez.
1955, 03 of August: North American expedition
conformed by H.Walton, D. Sowles, R. Hoppenon
and E. Angeles.
1958, 29 of July: North American expedition,
first ascent by the variant of the South edge,
conformed by F. Ayres, H. Kendall, G. Matthews,
D. Michael, Irene and Leigh Ortenburger.
1958, 28 of August: Scottish-Canadian
expedition, second ascent by the South edge,
conformed by W. Wallace, and Miss Emslie
1959, 14 of August: Zelandesa expedition neon,
third ascent by the South edge, conformed by D.
Mac-Kay, M and J Nelson.
1961, 11 of June: Japanese expedition of the
University of Kwansei Gakuin, by the traditional
1961, 20 of Julio: Spanish expedition, under the
direction of Felix Méndez two formed cordadas,
arriving at the top Anglada and Pons.
Later there have been other ascents to the
Huascarán, to them we paid our tribute.
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