Viognier
Viognier
seemed literally an endangered variety only a few years ago,
but seems to be recovering worldwide in both popularity and
acreage. Less than 35 acres remained planted in all of France,
its homeland, in the late 1960s. Its newest realm, California,
has 2,001 acres as of 2002 (although a considerable portion
is not yet mature enough to bear a commercial crop) and there
are also relatively new plantings in Australia and Brazil,
as well as other U.S. plantings in Colorado, New York, North
Carolina, Oregon, Texas, Virginia, and Washington.
The major drawback of the
viognier grape is that it is a very shy producer and somewhat
difficult to grow. Although drought tolerant, it is easily
infected with powdery mildew in damp conditions or humid climates.
Like many other varietals, viognier must be harvested at its
peak of maturity in order to display its unique aroma and
flavor character. The grape's tendency to develop high sugar
but low acid can result in wines with neutral, merely vinous
flavors and high alcohol. These cultivation problems and producer
desires to capitalize on the grape's somewhat rarity combine
to make many Viognier wines relatively expensive.
Viognier is the only grape
used for the Northern Rhône appellations Condrieu
and Château-Grillet (one of France's smallest
appellation contrôlée, with less than
ten acres and only one owner). Viognier is also sometimes
used to add fragrance and to soften and lighten the syrah
in Côte Rotie. Plantings of viognier in France have
expanded in recent years from the Rhône (1830 acres),
to the Languedoc (3440 ac.) to smaller plantings in Roussillon
(212 ac.) and Provence (272 ac.).
Probably the main attraction
of Viognier is its potentially powerful, rich, and complex
aroma that often seems like overripe apricots mixed with orange
blossoms or acacia. With as distinctive and sweet an aroma-flavor
profile as Gewürztraminer, Viognier is nevertheless usually
made in a dry style and seems to appeal more to the typical
Chardonnay drinker. The distinctive Viognier perfume holds
up even when blended with a large portion of other grapes.
The fruit usually has very deep color, but is somewhat low
in acidity. As California wineries experiment with Viognier-Chardonnays,
Viognier-Chenin Blancs, and Viognier-Colombards, this may
be the grape's ultimate destiny, as a blender.
Both
Chardonnay and Viognier share tropical fruit
flavors and a creamy mouthfeel. Even with little
or no wood aging, Viognier can be as full-bodied
as an oaky Chardonnay, but has much more
distinctive fruit character. It also has a
typically deep golden color, as well as rich and
intense flavor.
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Viognier
Smell and/or Flavor
Elements
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Varietal
Aromas/Flavors:
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Processing
Bouquets/Flavors:
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Floral:
orange blossom, acacia, violet,
honey
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Malolactic:
butter, cream
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Fruit:
apricot, mango, pineapple, guava, kiwi,
tangerine
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Oak
(light): vanilla, sweet
wood
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Spice:
anise, mint
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Oak
(heavy): oak, smoke,
toast
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Herbal:
mown hay, tobacco
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VIOGNIER
TASTING NOTES 1
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2
Viognier alcohol easily gets
out-of-hand, so some vintners leave a touch of residual sugar
to mask the heat. The combination of heady aromas and sweet-hot
flavors may be overbearing to some palates. Even for those
who favor Viognier's brash personality, a little can go a
long way and a single glass may satiate one's wine thirst.
There are also occasional late-harvest and dessert versions
made that can be as headily-intriguing as the finest Sauternes.
Because the prime appeal of
Viognier is its fresh and striking aroma, it is a wine that
should be consumed young in most instances. The exception
is Château Grillet, where the grapes are harvested early
and the wine kept in oak for several months prior to bottling;
this wine has a reputation for aging up to two decades.
As to food
matches, Viognier works well with dishes that
might normally call for Gewürztraminer.
Spicy dishes, such as spicy oriental stir-frys
and even curry, especially Thai-style which is
made with coconut milk, may be accompanied and
complemented by Viognier. Also fruit salsas,
atop grilled fish or chicken, can be
miraculously tasty with Viognier.
by
Jim
LaMar
RELATED LINKS
Enjoying
Viognier
is devoted to increasing appreciation for wines
made from Viognier and has a lot of additional
information.
