Dominating the low desert of Hierakonpolis is an imposing structure built of sun dried mudbrick known as the "Fort". It is the only standing structure at Hierakonpolis, and if you can have only one, it is not a bad one to have. It is the oldest freestanding monumental mudbrick structure in Egypt, if not the world. Approximately 67x57m (c.220ft x 185ft) in dimensions, with walls some 5m (16ft) thick, it is still preserved in places to its original imposing height of 9m (30ft). Decorated on its exterior with a series of niches and originally plastered white, it must have been a striking sight in its time. Almost 5000 years later, this monument stands as a testament to the abilities of its builder, King Khasekhemwy, the last king of the Second Dynasty (c. 2686BC).

It is more than just a romantic ruin; it may contain information for determining the architectural origins and purpose of the great pyramid complexes of Egypt. It may also help to unravel shadowy events at the end of the Second Dynasty, a period of fundamental changes in the structures of Dynastic culture. Yet, it remains an enigmatic monument, carefully guarding its secrets.

Although it continues to be called a fort, as it was first described, this structure had no military function, although exactly what its function may have been is under debate. It is certainly related to the ceremonial enclosures that were erected near the royal burial grounds of the kings of Egypt's early dynasties at Abydos to house their mortuary cults. It was at Abydos that Khasekhemwy built another enclosure some three times larger than the Hierakonpolis fort to accompany his equally huge desert tomb. These three structures alone earn this king the right to be called the first of Egypt’s great builders.

The Hierakonpolis Fort is unique. It is the only one of these massive mudbrick enclosures to be found outside of Abydos. It is also the only one to include elaborately carved stone embellishments for the enigmatic structure within it. Its sizable granite column bases and finely decorated door lintel suggest that, although smaller, the Fort was no less important to the king and just as costly. But to what end? Intimately linked to this question is why King Khasekhemwy should build two of these huge enclosures in the first place?

The standard explanation has been that the Second Dynasty is a shadowy and transitional period. Egypt was experiencing the first test of its unity, and in the second half of the Second Dynasty the country was ruled by rival kings. It has been suggested that Khasekhem, as he was initially known, first ruled as one of these rival kings, perhaps from Hierakonpolis given the number of fine objects bearing his early name found at the site. He originally planned to be buried at Hierakonpolis and built his funerary enclosure and perhaps began a tomb. But when he defeated his rivals and assumed control of all Egypt he changed his name to Khasekhemwy, and built a new enclosure and tomb at Abydos, the long-standing tradition burial place of Early Dynastic kings.

Investigated inconclusively by several earlier expeditions, and never properly planned or published, it is no wonder that the structure remains a mystery. In order to find out more about the Fort, in 1999 excavations were conducted in the enclosure where remnants of internal walls were still visible. These excavations revealed the partial plan of what must have been a lavish structure in its very center. A vertiable palace, it was at least at least 15m long and 10m wide. It featured at least two columns supported by gray granite column bases-- among the earliest examples of the architectural use of granite. And there is evidence that the building may have been entered though a richly ornate doorway of carved granite, fragments of which bearing the name of Khasekhemwy were recovered by Ambrose Lansing in 1934 outside the fort. Further fragments of the same inscribed lintel were found in 1999.

The discovery of this lavish internal structure suggests that the Fort is not a replica of a palace for use in the next world, but the real thing for use in his lifetime. This conclusion is supported by the pottery recovered from the excavations, which dates Second Dynasty activity in the Fort precisely to the middle of the reign of Khasekhemwy. As no pottery characteristic of the end of his 30+-year reign was found, it seems unlikely that the Fort was a cenotaph, or second funerary establishment. Instead this imposing enclosure may have been built to commemorate the king’s rejuvenation festival or perhaps even the reunification of land under his command and the grand festival when Khasekhem was reborn as Khasekhemwy. Indeed, what could be a better place for such a celebration than the home of the patron god of Egyptian Kingship, Horus of Hierakonpolis.

Unfortunately the Fort is falling down. Listed by the World Monument Fund as one of the World's Most Endangered Monuments for 2000/2001 and it was relisted for 2002/2003. In a recent article in Archaeology Odyssey (Sept. 2002, vol. 5.5), it was ranked as the third most endangered ancient site in the Mediterranean and Near East. Since being listed in 2000, the Fort has been accurately surveyed and photo-documented for the first time (see Nekhen News 12); however, its physical condition continues to deteriorate. Large holes have been dug into the foundations by treasure-hunters and the walls have been pillaged by locals for clay to make bricks. Emergency repairs to this magnificent structure need to be made soon, but we need your help. Your donations can help us save the Fort, so please become a Friend of Nekhen!

For more information the best place to start is the Nekhen News: Read about how we made the first accurate plan of the fort in Nekhen News 2000. Learn more about the carved lintel in Nekhen News 1999

Also:

Quibell, J.E. and F.W. Green. 1902. Hierakonpolis II. (Egypt Research Account 5) London.

Alexanian, N. 1998. "Die Reliefdekoration des Cheschemui aus dem sogenannten Fort in Hierakonpolis" in Les critères de datation stylistiques à l'Ancien Empire, ed. by N. Grimal. Institute Francaise d'Archéologie Orientale, Bibliothèque d'Ètude 120: 3-21.

Garstang, J. 1907. "Excavations at Hierakonpolis, at Esna, and in Nubia", Annales du Service des Antiquités de l'Égypte 8: 132-148.

Kemp, B.J. 1963. "Excavation at Hierakonpolis Fort 1905: A Preliminary Note", Journal of Egyptian Archaeology 49: 24-28.

Lansing, A. 1935. "The Museum's Excavations at Hierakonpolis", Bulletin of the Metropolitan Museum of Art 30: 37-45.

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