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Click on any of the images
below to see a larger version of the image. |
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Introduction |
I like a scope to give a reasonable amount of accuracy
when mounted on a rifle. I try to avoid modifying my rifle or carbine
and am always drawn to the "No Gunsmith Required" type of
products as my first choice when selecting a mount. I have tried
most of the SKS scope mounts on the market and want to impart some
experiences I have had so far.
The following are my thoughts on the scope mounts
I have tried or am aware of for the SKS Carbine:
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Receiver Cover Type Mount |
I tried and found the
receiver cover
type mount fell into the "poor design" category.
Sometime as an experiment remove the bolt, bolt
carrier, and recoil spring assembly of your SKS and then replace
the receiver cover (lock it down) and see how much play you have
by moving it back and forth.
Do you really think this is a stable platform for
a scope?
Granted, the parts installed in the receiver (bolt,
bolt carrier, recoil spring, etc) do place pressure on the receiver
cover and somewhat keep it in place. It is not constant pressure
because all of the internal receiver parts move during the operation
of the firearm.
Although this is a very convenient design to install,
I think it is inherently a bad design for functionality and accuracy.
Some folks have great luck with these mounts and
there is no shortage of them available on the market.
I have not had good luck with this type of mount
and
my targets looked like I was checking the pattern of my
shotgun prior to Turkey or Duck season.
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Receiver Cover Type Mount w/Screws |
There is another variation of the receiver cover
type mount that has screws that extend below the receiver cover
on the outside of the receiver. The intended goal here is that you
tighten the screws against the receiver once you reinstall the receiver
cover.
This type of mount makes my point about the standard
receiver cover type mount. If it was a stable platform to
begin with - then why would you need to secure it any further?
The screws leave marks on the receiver. Although
this sounds like a bad thing, it actually serves a purpose for the
mount. Tighten the screws again in the same exact location as the
last time the mount was attached. This should help to quickly return
the SKS to zero or close to it.
The downside is - the screws leave marks on the
receiver.
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Rear Sight Scout Type Mount |
I have tried another mount that replaces the rear
sight and uses a long eye relief (LEF) scope. Although the rear
sight is a stable scope base, you have to remove the scope every
time you want to remove and clean the gas tube.
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Gas Tube Type Mount |
Do you really think the gas tube is a good place
to mount a scope? I won't go there.
Note: I have not tried this type
of mount, I just know how loose my SKS gas tubes sometimes can be
and would not use this as a platform for a scope.
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"Drill and Tap" Type Mount |
Let's face it - the SKS is a difficult beast to
mount a scope on and get reasonable accuracy, repeatedly.
I finally came to the conclusion that the only way
to mount a scope on an SKS was to install a "drill and tap"
type mount that is permanently affixed to the receiver.
A "drill and tap" type mount is a mount
that you drill holes, tap (thread the hole), install the mount,
and it stays in place forever. A good "drill and tap" type
mount should allow the firearm to function normally and should not
have to be removed to facilitate cleaning of the firearm.
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There are two different U.S. "drill and tap"
type mounts available. The first one is from ATI and is called the
K-Mount (as shown in figure 4). After installing the
K-Mount, I found that I could not remove the bolt and bolt carrier
with the K-Mount installed. This is a drawback in my opinion. I
am always stripping out threads on screws and threaded screw holes.
This happens especially if I am repeatedly removing and replacing
the screws. It appears as though the mount needs to be removed to
facilitate cleaning. I decided not to include this mount in the
article until I can get more information from ATI. Who knows, maybe
I am doing something wrong. It would not be the first time!
The second "drill and tap" style scope mount
and the mount covered in this article is from
Choate Machine & Tool and is described by the manufacturer
as -
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Our SKS Scope
mounts are second to none in quality and workmanship. They are invest
cast out of 4140 Steel and Blued to match the gun's finish. These
mounts are designed to use Weaver type one inch rings and are raised
to allow the shooter to use the iron sights as well as a scope.
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Scope Mount kit used in article |
Description |
Price |
180802 SKS SCOPE MOUNT
(Click on part description to see more about part or place order)
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$38.50 |
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The Choate Machine & Tool Mount
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First
off, the Choate mount is a heavy-duty piece of steel. It mounts
to the left side of the receiver, only. Here is the manufacturer's
description excerpt from the included instructions: |
This scope
mount is solid invest cast 4140 Tool Steel. It is hot blued to match
you weapon. It uses Weaver type rings. There are six ring screw
slots (as shown in figure 3) so that adjusting the eye relief
will be easy. The weight was reduced by the triangle voids (as shown
in figures 1 and 2) but adds strength by the truss effect.
It will mount high enough to allow disassembly of the rifle and
allow the use of open sights. We provide Grade 8 Tool & Die quality
screws. This mount was designed for the SKS & AK-47, but it will
fit on nearly any flat sided rifle or shotgun. |
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The features of the Choate
mount include - you can easily remove the receiver cover, bolt carrier,
and bolt without removing the scope or mount. The mount sits high
enough to use the original open sights on the carbine. |
I chose to use the same Yugo 59/66 SKS that I used for the
Williams Firesight article. This way I would have a
totally "tricked out" SKS when it comes to sighting systems.
This would include a really great fiber optic and aperture open
sight system and a scope and mount that actually performs as they
are supposed to.
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As you can see as shown in figure 4, the ATI K-Mount is
attached to both sides of the receiver. The K-Mount also sits literally
on top of the receiver cover. This makes it impossible to perform
the following tasks - remove the bolt carrier and bolt and use the
open original sights. I don't like having to remove a scope mount
ever time I want to clean a firearm.
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As described, Choate includes
screws for the kit but does not include tools (tap and drill bit).
Choate recommends you have a gunsmith install the mount. Yes, you
could do this - or you could do it yourself with the information
supplied in this article! |
Manufacturer's
Mounting Tips: We suggest you employ a real gunsmith to install
this scope. The threads are standard 8-40 fine. The tap drill bit
is #28 (.140 Dia). Every real gunsmith will have these drill bits
and taps. We suggest you clamp the mount on the side of the receiver.
Make sure you can see the open sights and make sure you can remove
the dust cover & bolt. Align the top or bottom of the mount parallel
with the bore. After that it is the usual task of spotting, drilling
and tapping four holes. We strongly recommend that you use thread
locking compound on the screws and also between the mount and the
receiver. |
Required Tools Not Supplied
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I quickly learned that you cannot get a
8/40 tap
or a #28 drill bit at you local hardware store. They are
gunsmithing tools.
I like a feature that Midway USA
has on their website. Any product they carry in the catalog, you
can actually see how many they have currently in stock.
So if you overnight something - you know you will actually get
it as quick as you want. I think this reduces back-orders
and makes customers happy. At least it does for me. I hate it when
I order something "next day express" and I do not receive
it for a week or so because the vendor does not have it in stock.
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I ordered the
Weaver Drill
and Tap Set 8/40-28 for $5.97 plus shipping and handling.
An ironic foot note is that when I opened the package it said it
was from Brownells.
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The Task at Hand
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I
removed the bolt, bolt carrier, and recoil spring assembly from
the receiver. I replaced the receiver cover back on the receiver
and locked it into place. I did this because I wanted to make sure
I placed the mount at the proper clearance and height. |
Next
I used a pair of locking pliers to hold the mount in place (as
shown in figure 9). I followed the instructions and made
sure that the mount sat 1.5 inches forward of the rear of the receiver.
I then made sure the mount was parallel to the barrel and checked
to make sure I could see the open sights. Last I checked to make
sure I could remove the receiver cover easily. Once I accomplished
these steps I prepared to drill the holes. |
I left the mount attached while using the #28 bit to drill the
four holes. I drilled the holes through the receiver wall.
I really recommend getting an inexpensive drill press if you
are going to be doing more that one mount or rifle. It is really
worth the price. If you watch outlet stores or
Harbor Freight
you will be able to pick up a sturdy table top model (as shown
in figure 10) for less than $100.
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Next
I removed the mount and set it aside. I placed a small amount of
machine oil into each of the four holes. This helps the tap turn
more easily in the hole while making threads. Half-way through the
tapping process of each hole you want to apply more oil. |
The 8-40 tap bit is what you
use to cut threads in the receiver's drilled holes. You will have
to purchase a
tap handle similar to the one shown in figure 12.
The prices of a tap handle ranges from $5 and up depending on the
quality.
Note: If you plan on using the tap handle for
other projects then you may want to spend a little more. The one
I picked up had a tendency to allow the bit to spin at the end of
the tapping of each hole, no matter how much I tightened the tool.
It worked, but not as well as I had hoped.
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The MIT machinist
reference describes tapping as - |
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A tap has
cutting edges to cut the threads and straight flutes to allow chips
to be expelled. The end of the tap is tapered slightly to help the
tap get started. Taps are hard and brittle so you should be careful
working with them (try not to drop them or force them into a hole
when stuck). Be sure that the hole you drilled is the correct size
for the tap you're using or it may break inside.
Put the tap in place and apply moderate pressure as you turn the
tap. It's good practice to back the tap up a bit for every quarter
turn of thread you cut.
Copyright � 2001 by Massachusetts Institute
of Technology (MIT).
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Choate recommended using thread locking compound (Loctite
is a leading brand) to hold the screws in place. I had read
somewhere that some gunsmiths use superglue in the holes as well
as on the top of the receiver below the mount. This is what I chose
to do. I have done this before very successfully. |
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I placed a small amount of superglue
between the receiver and mount and then laid the mount in place.
I then put a very small amount of superglue on each screw as I installed
them.
I used an allen wrench to tighten each of the four supplied screws.
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Prior to installing the mount, I discovered that I would need
to remove a small amount of wood from the right side of the stock.
I wanted to see if this was specific to the Yugo 59/66 and tried
matching the mount to my Chinese SKS. I found I would need to modify
its stock as well. Figure 14 shows the height of the receiver
on the unmodified stock and the gap.
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You will need to remove the amount of wood as shown in figure
15. I started using a rotary tool with a wood bit but
found it was easier and a more controlled task if I used a
Utility Knife. You start by making cuts at each end. Then
you can remove layers of wood like whittling, while the end cuts
serve as guides to not allow you to go past the intended line.
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Figure 16 shows the completed job.
I recommend taking your time.
Only remove a little wood at a time.
Be very careful not to cut yourself.
When I was finished, I used a small wood file to clean up my
work and smooth out any rough edges.
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When I was finished assembling the SKS, I installed a
Compact 6x32 Scope
and rings that I had from my prior experiences with mounting a scope
on an SKS. The scope only cost me $35. |
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Figures 17, 18, and
19 show the completed job. I think it turned out pretty well!
The mount is very stable and I cannot see any flexing or movement,
at all. I can easily remove the receiver components and clean the
receiver. |
Finished Job
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Range Report
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As shown in figure 20 you can see the open sights and
use them.
A real plus in my opinion!
It did not take very long for me to bring the scope into adjustment.
I brought 200 rounds with me and I went through all of it in
this shooting session, while shooting at different distances.
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Out of all the mounts I have tried to date, I think the Choate
mount is the best for the SKS.
I need to temper this comment with - I don't think the SKS is
a good sniper rifle to begin with.
Please don't believe for a single second that you will get the
same level of accuracy out of the SKS with a scope installed when
compared to a scoped bolt-action rifle.
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On Mad TV, they used to have a mock commercial about a dating
service called "Lowered Expectations". This is the approach
you should have with a scoped SKS. You WILL get better accuracy
with the scope then you do with the open sights - but not much.
Also, the folks that have failing eyes, like myself, will find
it easier to sight the with the scope.
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Keeping all of this in mind, figures 22 and 23 are representative
of my groupings with the Choate mount equipped SKS, at 100 yards.
My groups were considerably better than I have ever done with
open sights on the same SKS, at this range.
They are not as nice as the groupings achieved with
Lil' Black Beauty, the completely sporterized scoped m44
bolt-action carbine that I wrote about recently. I only use this
as a comparison to make my point.
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The Choate mount is a great addition to my favorite
SKS. I have used this SKS in prior articles and I only install products
on her that I would personally purchase even if I were not writing
an article. The Choate mount is one of those products.
jlm;)
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