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June 2010

June 24, 2010

Game report from Ruaha (Feb 2009)

Filed under: ruaha,Tanzania Safari — Tags: , — Tanzania Odyssey @ 5:45 pm

The rains have broken over the Ruaha! What was near desert, over a period of a few days has turned into lush woodland
with scattered green grass meadows. Dry sunny mornings are the norm with massive cloud build up during the day
climaxing in a late afternoon downpour drenching the sun baked earth. The Ruaha has come alive! The trees and bushes
have sprung into action producing leaves and flowers turning the whole park from a dull brown to every shade of green
possible.
Perhaps the most rewarding time to visit a park is during this transitional phase, to see the emergence of creatures rarely
seen in the dry season, and to witness the change in general animal behavior as a sense of relief seems to flood over them.
Suddenly there is food and energy to spare shown by the impala as they pronk and bound around for no apparent reason!
We have also seen the return of most of our migrant birds, some of which come from as far away as the Russian Steppes to
escape the harsh Northern winters, many however come from other areas within Africa. The most noticeable of these are
the cuckoos, several species, which start arriving anytime from October and proceed to wreak havoc among other birds
lives as they fly from nest to nest laying their superbly similar eggs in to the nests of other unsuspecting species ultimately
dooming the family. On hatching, the tiny seemingly helpless cuckoos are anything but. After usually hatching first, the
little cuckoo chick instinctively roll the other eggs out of the nest destroying them below, removing all future competition
concentrating all the adopted parents efforts solely on the one cuckoo. Should the intruder hatch after the hatching of
other chicks he is equip with a hook on the beak tip to dispatch his future rivals.
Several species off bee-eater have also returned to Ruaha, surely the most handsome family of birds in Africa. With such
vibrant colours, the bee-eaters can turn most people into avid bird watchers the minute they sight their first one as they
scythe through the air in search of their insect prey and land on a nearby branch to devour it allowing close approaches.
Dozens of new raptor species are frequently spotted, again some of these birds coming from as far away as Russia to take
advantage of food bonanza the rains bring.
The Amur falcons have returned in their thousands and vast flocks of these birds are often seen over the camp after a
shower of rain to cash in on the emerging termites which escape the mounds in their millions after heavy rain. The huge
spur winged geese and bizarre knob billed ducks although present in Ruaha throughout the year have been joined by
numerous others and are now are in huge numbers littered all over the park and can be seen on every pan and waterhole.
It is it this time of year when Ruaha comes into its own and lives up to its expectations of being one of the greatest bird
paradises in Africa.
Lions are still heard on most nights and are still wandering through the camp once a week or so. Festo located a pride of
15 lion all together resting the day away along the banks of the Ruaha river. Leopard as always is a lucky sighting but we are
expecting an increase as many moved away as the bush started to thin out in the dry season.
One species which will always be present in the Jongomero area is our elephants. With several herds being sighted a day
sometimes in the dry season, we are still getting good numbers of these creatures even now. A female elephant or baby has
not been seen for over a month, but all the boys are now beginning to congregate in to large herds and are often spotted in
our area or more often than not, within the camp itself. The best sighting of last month had to be our resident cranky rogue
bull Kingo return to Jongomero with 20 of his friends in tow. After spending most of the day in the camp and putting on a
great show in front of the main area, Kingo who was very well behaved led them all away again.
The buffalos have moved away from the area but with a bit of effort, herds of up to a few hundred can still be seen in the
open areas further North of Jongomero.
General game as always is still in good supply, most drives come back with frequent sightings of most other species. Giraffe
are still bountiful and one drive returned last week with having seen over a hundred! Greater kudus, probably the most
handsome of all antelope are still being seen almost daily together with Zebras, Waterbuck, Bushbuck, hippos, Dik-Diks,
Duikers, Mongoose, Crocs, Jackals, Bat-Eared Foxes and of course, the ubiquitous Impala whom have just calved and their
tiny youngsters can be seen bounding round all over.
As well as all the big stuff, as always time must be devoted to the no less important smaller little things which scamper
around contributing to Ruaha uniqueness. It has been a long wait for the environmentally vital dung beetles and evidence
for this could be seen by the huge piles of dung covering the park. Within a couple of weeks it has all been cleaned up by
these industrious little workers as they squabble over the fresh dung and fashion it into elegant balls to roll away and
hopefully attract a mate on the way. A horrible job but some one has to do it! Dung beetles return vast quantities of
nutrients back into the soil making them one of Africa’s most important, indispensable little creatures. Velvet mites look as
if they are covered in pure red velvet and if there ever was a visually stunning “bug”, this is it. Never seen in the dry, these
animals are mostly underground where they feed on subterranean termites, as soon as the first rains fall, literally billions
emerge from the soil to mate, in some areas the whole ground can take on an almost red sheen and to walk without
standing on one is almost impossible. They then disappear as quick as they appear and we must wait for this time next year
to see them again. Some extraordinary species of snake have began also to make an appearance, the most notable of course
being the African Rock Python and several youngsters have been found near the camp. Mother has not as yet made an
appearance but a 15 foot Python was spotted by friends of ours in another area of the park!
The elephant shrews are up to their usual tricks and several are seen in the camp each night and on occasion keep up the
odd guest with their constant leg drumming to attract mates. However many of them are now accompanied by a few tiny
babies in tow.
As usual, another good couple of months game wise and without doubt my favorite time of year to be in the African bush.
Wishing everyone a very Happy New Year, and all the best for a good year ahead! Andrew Mollinaro

For detailed information about Tanzania and Zanzibar please look at our site – www.tanzaniaodyssey.com, and click here for information about a Tanzania safari.

To view videos of the country and the various lodges please see our Video Console

Or for advice / quotes or anything else please call us in London on 44 (2) 7471 8780 or in the USA on (toll free) 1-866 356 4691

June 22, 2010

If you go to Ruaha National Park,By Chris Welsch, Star Tribune

Filed under: ruaha,Tanzania Safari — Tags: , — Tanzania Odyssey @ 5:24 pm

Click to see video of Ruaha National Park

Ruaha National Park is Tanzania’s second largest, just behind Serengeti. But it is among the least seen of the country’s parks, with only 2,000 visitors a year.
Unlike Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, where traffic jams of safari cars form during high season, it’s rare to see another vehicle in Ruaha. There are no towns or hotels nearby. Accommodations in the park hold only about 150 people. In a park that’s as big as Massachusetts, animals vastly outnumber people.

Straddling two regions — southern and East Africa — Ruaha plays host to an unusual mix of animals.

The park is home to more than 400 species of birds — the most of any East African park. The names of the birds are often as amazing as their plumage: Picture red-billed oxpeckers, wing-snapping cisticolas and spotted thick-knees, and you’ll know what I mean.

I marked off a depressingly scant 30 species of birds on my checklist, although I saw many more than that. My proudest sighting: an ostrich, the world’s largest bird. That should count for something extra.

I visited the park in April, during the rainy season, which is probably the best time for seeing wildflowers and birds but the worst for sighting big animals. The rains produce tall grass and thick foliage that screen the animals from view. Potholes everywhere fill up with water, so the grazing animals — impala, eland, zebra, kudu, sable — are able to disperse throughout the park. With them go the lions, leopards and cheetahs. Most tourists hit the safari trail in January and February, when the weather in Africa is hottest and driest. Vegetation withers, the water holes dry up and animals flock to the remaining rivers and lakes, where they’re easier to see. July through September is also a good time for big game viewing.

Guides in Ruaha said that during the dry seasons, it is common to see lions and leopards drinking right at the two lodges where I stayed (both were on rivers — Mwagusi Camp on the Mwagusi River and Ruaha River Lodge on the Ruaha River). Both of these lodges have their bandas, or thatched lodgings, built close to the rivers to maximize your chances of seeing and hearing wildlife, even when you’re not out looking for it.

Going on safari

There are many ways to plan a safari, ranging from a completely independent trip (a fraction of the cost but harder to arrange) on up to complete package deals that take care of every detail.

Start by doing some research. Tanzania — safe, accessible and rich in wildlife — is one of the most popular options.

Both lodges are run by the Fox family, which has deep roots in Tanzania. I spent two nights at each place. Mwagusi Camp is more intimate, with a maximum of 20 guests staying in posh tents by a slow-moving river. Ruaha River Lodge holds about 60 guests, who stay in stone huts spread out along a scenic stretch of the river. One of the main attractions at River Lodge is a bar/dining area built on a rocky hill with a stunning overview of the river valley. Both places offer special touches that take the rough edges off the “wilderness experience.” At Ruaha River Lodge, a waiter brought coffee and biscuits to my room at sunrise so I could eat on my veranda while admiring the passing cape buffalo, giraffe and waterbuck watering in the river, which ran a dozen yards from my front door.

The food at both places is excellent, with imaginative preparations of locally grown produce, chicken and beef. I also had some excellent fresh fish at Ruaha River Lodge — really fresh: I watched the maitre d’ catch it during his afternoon break.

Mwagusi Camp has an excellent Web site at http://www.ruaha.org . There you’ll find more information on the park, on the accommodations and on making arrangements to get there. Two small airlines fly direct from Dar es Salaam to Ruaha, making it pretty easy. Ruaha River Lodge is listed on the Tanzania Tourist Board’s Web site, which is a handy resource for trip planning. That’s at

http://www.tanzania-web.com.

Organized trips to both lodges can be booked through Tanzania Odyssey in London. The phone number is 44-171-471-8780. The agency’s Web site is http://www.tanzaniaodyssey.com

For detailed information about Tanzania and Zanzibar please look at our site – www.tanzaniaodyssey.com, and click here for information about a Tanzania safari.

To view videos of the country and the various lodges please see our Video Console

Or for advice / quotes or anything else please call us in London on 44 (2) 7471 8780 or in the USA on (toll free) 1-866 356 4691