26 Seats

The name 26 Seats says a lot about this sweet little French restaurant near Tompkins Square Park. The narrow dining room is what real estate people call intimate, yet it's relatively comfortable and the waitresses are friendly and kind to children (who take up less room, of course). The menu's French country offerings, hitting familiar regional notes, are both satisfying and a good value. The main courses, too, are well-executed versions of familiar recipes, with the occasional pleasing twist. The modest wine list includes several appropriately priced choices. For dessert, a wedge of apple tart is the best choice. — Eric Asimov