However much you strain to discover some underlying charm, you’ll find sprawling Egilsstaðir isn’t a ravishing beauty. It’s the main regional transport hub, and a centre for local commerce. Sorry, it’s about as enchanting as it sounds. Services include an excellent regional tourist office and quality accommodation.

Egilsstaðir’s saving grace is its proximity to lovely Lagarfljót, Iceland’s third-largest lake. Since Saga times, tales have been told of a monster living in its depths. If you want to do some beastie-hunting, or explore the forest on the lake’s eastern bank, Egilsstaðir makes a good base.