Albert Fok and Jordan Eng have had reasons to shake their heads in Vancouver’s evolving Chinatown, but they remain shocked how the winner of August’s Golden Dumpling Derby could digest 37 dumplings in two minutes.

“And then he ate off everyone else’s plate. I have video to prove it,” laughed Eng, the vice-president of Chinatown’s Business Improvement Association, recalling the second annual eating contest.

“You might want to think hard before inviting him over for dinner,” grinned Fok, the BIA president. “And I think he was just getting warmed up.”

The smiles and laughs in the association’s Keefer Street boardroom are back. And, perhaps just as important, the construction and renovation crews are, too, adding paint, parts and new buildings to the neighbourhood, designated a National Historic Site in 2010.

Tourists by the thousands stop to snap pictures at the Millennium Gate, the China Gate, the Jimi Hendrix Shrine, the Sam Kee building — the world’s narrowest structure (six feet), according to Ripley’s Believe It or Not — and the Monument of Canadian Chinese.

The X-Files, MacGyver, Rumble in the Bronx, X-Men and Hawaii Five-O have all gone Hollywood in this location. Neon signs, which once rivalled the glitter of Vegas, also are making a slow comeback, albeit mostly in LED format thanks to relaxed civic bylaws.

These are all indications that the revitalization project for Canada’s largest Chinatown now appears back on track after an intense decade of uncertainty and negative headlines, including detrimental reports of a mass exodus for Richmond’s newer Golden Village.

There are now more than 3,200 employees and 450 businesses in the BIA, and the “good-luck muse” — a mascot panda named Van Van, born after the 2010 Winter Olympics — is busier than ever making public appearances.

And, pivotal for both men, is that the youth and nightlife are slowly returning to the culture-rich neighbourhood that features superb restaurants, distinctive herb-tea shops, fusion fashion, health products, arts and the modern soccer pitches of Andy Livingstone Park.

While Fok and Eng know there’s plenty still to be done in the area they can sleep better at night knowing new blood, optimism and passion are back in the so-called epicentre of the Canadian Chinese community, where they say East meets the West.

Both men talked to The Vancouver Sun last week about the BIA’s zestful efforts to make the neighbourhood more appealing to people of all backgrounds and ages:

Q: In this the Year of the Horse, what kind of horse is today’s Chinatown?

Fok: I’d say a colt. It’s on the up-rise, with lots of potential. It’s not going to win all the races, but with proper training, teamwork and direction it could be a champion.

Q: How is that different from five years ago?

Eng: Very different. Given our location, we were lumped in with all the problems of the Downtown Eastside and we were actually listed on Asian tourist brochures as a place to avoid due to crime, drugs and dangerous people. Both Albert and I spent a lot of time trying to convince people from around the world that just wasn’t the case.

Fok: We truly believe that if you spend a day down here all the negative perceptions will disappear. We will always have the challenges due to our location, but we’re no different than Gastown or Strathcona in that respect. And we deal with it, we don’t ignore it.

Q: What do you think of the signage controversy in Richmond, where some residents are upset that parts of their city no longer look like Canada?

Fok: We really pride ourselves in Chinatown for being all-inclusive and very proud to be Canadian. We have been big supporters of the bilingual campaign for a long time. We want everyone who lives here or works here to know English or learn English — and use English. Having said that, we also know there’s more to life than just GM, Ford and Chrysler.

Eng: We naturally pay attention to the Aberdeen Centre in Richmond from a business perspective. We also pay attention to the other areas of Vancouver where Chinese businesses are operating. I think where we are different is that we have history and a history of community involvement. People live here, they work here, they hang out here with friends and family. We’re not here just to make a fast buck — this is our home. And has been since 1885.

Q: On that note, what makes Chinatown tick?

Fok: We are strategically located in a global city. We are close to everything. We have the best Chinese food, we have stores with fresh produce, fruits and vegetables and some of the finest herbs. And the BBQ meats are among the best in the city. There are a lot of hidden gems here and a lot of fascinating stories. There are also a lot of fresh faces bringing new ideas and we’re trying to harmonize the young and the old for the betterment of all.

Eng: What’s really encouraging for me is to see how everyone here looks out for each other. We believe this area is the heart and soul of the Chinese community and we are happy that everyone has come together to help with the revitalization.

Q: What are some of the events that help raise your profile?

Fok: We have our annual festival (August), Streetfest, the New Year’s Parade and Christmas in Chinatown. We have youth talent contests and, of course, our new Dumpling Cook-off and eating contest. We have more than 300 volunteers for our big events, so it’s great to see all the enthusiasm.

Q: How would you describe Chinatown’s fabric?

Eng: It has a big working-class population, with all income levels, with caring people who look after our seniors. About 1,500 people live in the immediate area, and thousands more live close by. It’s pretty close-knit where everyone seems to know everyone’s business. There are a lot of one- and two-person offices and regional headquarters that you don’t see as a regular shopper. We’re also adding 400 to 500 more residential units.

Fok: And it’s becoming hip again. The youth and hipsters are coming down in their fancy cars to eat, drink and party. And some are starting up new businesses, or helping friends and family run theirs.

Q: What do you think of the Chinese proverb that suggests the person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it?

Fok: Chinatown has gone through many phases since the gold rush and railway workers came here. No matter how good or bad things have been here, or what the critics say, the people have never, ever given up trying to make it a better place.

Eng: And we’re not about to, either. We are early into this revitalization project and even though we have made some positive gains, and we have some positive energy, we can’t let up. I know Albert and I won’t.

gkurenoff@vancouversun.com

Twitter.com/ohgord

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