The Vale of Neath is home to a stunning collection of waterfalls.
In contrast to the narrow Afan Valley, the Vale of Neath (Cwm Nedd) is broad for much of its length. It never experienced the intensive heavy industrialisation endured by most of the other valleys, although it most definitely played a similarly significant role in the industrial revolution, e.g. the Neath Abbey Ironworks became one of the country’s greatest engineering concerns producing engines, iron ships, railway locomotives and cast iron rails, including those for the Stockton and Darlington Railway, the first public passenger railway in the world. Today, the remains of those works and others, as well as the Neath-Tennant Canal, are testimony to the role the area played in helping transform the world and are certainly well worth discovering.
Travelling down through the Vale along the Heads of the Valleys Road, probably the first thing to strike visitors is the broad, lush, verdant nature of the valley and the magnificently wooded hillsides. Renowned naturalist, Alfred Russel Wallace when living there near Cadoxton in 1845 when he started to formulate his revolutionary ideas on evolution, said: ‘I cannot call to mind a single valley that in the same extent of country comprises so much beautiful and picturesque scenery and so many interesting and special features as the Vale of Neath’ In the lower part of the Vale, waterfalls can also be found at Melincourt and Aberdulais as well as cascades at Gnoll Country Park in Neath.
Looking at the area today it is hard to disagree. Nowhere else in Wales has such a wealth and diversity of waterfalls within such a small area as the Vale of Neath with area around the deep gorges of the rivers Pyrddin, Mellte, Hepste and Nedd Fechan often referred to as ‘Waterfall Country’. Many of the falls are spectacular, such as Sgwd-yr-Eira and Sgwd Clun Gwyn, and repay repeated visits throughout the changing seasons.
Pontneddfechan, just outside Glynneath, standing at the confluence of the Mellte and the Nedd Fechan rivers provides an excellent access point to the waterfalls as well as Craig-y-Dinas (Dinas Rock), which is a favourite spot for rock-climbers. The area, which is part of the Fforest Fawr Geopark, also has a number of fascinating relics of its industrial past with trails taking in the former gunpowder works and the famous silica mines. A number of local pubs provide fine fare and sustenance for those who have worked up a thirst and appetite.
Glynneath (Glyn Nedd) a small town situated towards the top end of the Vale of Neath is the hometown of Welsh comedian Max Boyce and Ken Elias, one of Wales’ leading contemporary artists who still lives and works there. Visitors are welcome to play a very picturesque round of golf at Glynneath Golf Club.
Further down the valley is Resolven, just south of which on a tributary of the River Neath is the spectacular 25-metre high Melincourt waterfall, which was painted by Turner in 1794.
Also close to Resolven is the historic, beautiful 120-acre Rheola Estate. Rheola House is a private residence and the estate is not open to the public, but the former aluminium factory next to it is now a traditional Welsh building salvage works and also the site of the highly popular and fascinating weekly Rheola indoor market, reputed to be the largest in Wales, where you never know what you might find.
The upper reaches of the Neath Canal alongside the estate has been restored with over four miles of walkable towpath between Resolven and Glynneath offering excellent views up and down the valley.
Neath (Castell Nedd) has existed as a settlement since Roman times. A market town, it expanded in the 18th and 19th centuries with the new metal industries. Once the largest abbey in Wales, Neath Abbey, founded by Cistercian monks in 1130, was used by Savigniac monks from western Normandy, but by 1730 much of it was being used for copper smelting. Today, Neath Abbey is a very peaceful historic site to visit.
By the end of the 18th century, Neath Abbey Ironworks had been established. It was here that David ‘Papa’ Thomas, considered to be the father of the American iron industry, commenced work in 1812. The ruins of its impressive furnaces and engine manufactory remain tucked away from view close to the Clydach brook.
The Gnoll Estate was once owned by a wealthy Mackworth family. Today, its has developed into the Gnoll Estate Country Par, which retains many of its original features including historic landscaped gardens, two 18th century cascades, four large duck ponds, and the ruins of Gnoll House.
Area Highlights
- Gnoll Country Park
Gnoll Country Park was voted the Best Picnic spot in Wales in 2010 in the Warburtons National Picnic Awards.
Gnoll Estate was once owned by a wealthy industrial family, the Mackworths. Today, the estate has developed into a family park but still maintains its original features including four large duck ponds, two 18th century cascades and the ruins of Gnoll House.