Sections
Aim higher, reach further.
Get the Wall Street Journal $12 for 12 weeks. Subscribe Now

A Surfer’s Guide to Avoiding Ankle Injuries

Stuck on land after an injury, ‘John John’ Florence began a physical-therapy regimen that not only repaired damage but aimed to prevent future harm

Surfer John Florence warms up his ankle on the beach in Santa Monica, Calif. While shooting his new film he was sidelined by ankle injuries. A physical-therapy regime helped him get back on track. ENLARGE
Surfer John Florence warms up his ankle on the beach in Santa Monica, Calif. While shooting his new film he was sidelined by ankle injuries. A physical-therapy regime helped him get back on track. Photo: Kendrick Brinson for The Wall Street Journal

Most surfers are content to ride down the face of a wave, but that isn’t enough for John Florence. He performs back flips and twists.

The surfer from Oahu’s North Shore, known as “John John,” was on a bodyboard at age 3. At 13, he became the youngest surfer to compete at the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, a series of three competitions in Hawaii. At 19, he won the 2013 competition. This year’s competition began Nov. 12 and continues through Dec. 20. Mr. Florence’s aerial maneuvers, many of which reference skateboarding tricks, are often described as the future of surfing.

Just as trail runners and football players worry about coming down on an ankle wrong, so do surfers. “When you’re doing airs on a surfboard you come down on your board and the water pressure from the wave against your ankle can lead to some serious tweaks,” Mr. Florence says. He suffered two injuries filming his new movie, “View From a Blue Moon,” which premiered in eight cities world-wide Nov. 11 and will be released on DVD/Blue Ray, iTunes and additional digital platforms, Dec. 1.

See the trailer for ‘View From a Blue Moon’

The film, shot in Hawaii, Tahiti, South Africa, Western Australia and Brazil, took nearly three years to finish. On the first trip for filming, Mr. Florence landed an aerial move awkwardly and twisted his left ankle, tearing ligaments. He was out of the water for three months.

Despite going stir-crazy from being on land so long, Mr. Florence says rehabbing his injuries has made him a stronger surfer. Two days after the first injury, Mr. Florence flew to Costa Mesa, Calif., to start working with a physical therapist, Mark Kozuki, owner of Elite Performance Physical Therapy.

“I thought I was strong,” Mr. Florence says, “but during the rehab, Mark assessed my overall core strength and stability, and we found a lot of weak links.”

Before the injuries, Mr. Florence’s workout entailed surfing every day, but not much formal training and stretching. Mr. Florence has his sights on winning a World Surfing League Championship title. Currently, he is ranked 15th on the world tour.

The Workout

Mr. Kozuki says a lot of rotational athletes—surfers, golfers, tennis players—tend to twist one particular way, which leads to muscle imbalances and overuse injuries. Surfers have either the left or right foot forward on the board and due to the position of their feet, when they face forward, their body is relatively twisted in the same direction as their stance.

Mr. Kozuki uses Redcord, a suspension exercise system similar to a TRX that was developed in Norway to help detect musculoskeletal imbalances. The system uses body weight for resistance. Mr. Kozuki has Mr. Florence perform a side plank, with his hip and legs suspended in the Redcord straps. “Sometimes in side plank, the glute muscle on the outer edge of the hip, the glute medius, is prone to being weak,” explains Mr. Kozuki. “Performing the pose while suspended isolates the glute medius and stimulates the muscle.”

Mr. Florence’s other core strengthening exercises include holding a bridge pose until his muscles start shaking, then lowering slowly back down and repeating. He performs squats with both legs and with one leg on Dyna Discs, which are circular inflated pads that create an unstable surface. He then balances on the Dyna Discs while Mr. Kozuki throws a medicine ball back and forth with him.

Mr. Kozuki said many exercises focus on “deep core” muscles. Mr. Florence will lay on his back with his knees bent and bring one leg up to tabletop position and then slowly lower it down to the ground, then bring the other leg up to tabletop position and back down. Then he’ll bring both legs up to tabletop position and back down to the ground. The idea is to isolate the core muscles so they do the work, not the lower back.

John Florence surfs during the filming of 'View From A Blue Moon.' ‘The movie took up a lot of time, so now I want to focus on competing. All of my energy will go into contest performance so I can win a title,’ he says ENLARGE
John Florence surfs during the filming of 'View From A Blue Moon.' ‘The movie took up a lot of time, so now I want to focus on competing. All of my energy will go into contest performance so I can win a title,’ he says Photo: Sacha Specker
The Diet

Mr. Florence says he has always avoided fast food, candy and soda. On the road, he seeks out home-cooked meals, rather than dining in restaurants. When he’s surfing, he starts his day with a small bowl of oatmeal. When he’s out of the water, he’ll have eggs with avocado, spinach and kale. He snacks throughout the day on trail mix and fruit and he eats an early dinner, often pasta with chicken and vegetables.

Gear

Mr. Florence owns, by his estimate, close to 90 surfboards of all shapes and sizes. He says he gets the majority of his gear from sponsors. He uses a Tiger Tail massage roller when he travels. The Roadster model retails for $27.95

The Playlist

“I pick a couple of songs, and I’ll listen to them throughout an entire competition,” Mr. Florence says. “My music taste changes drastically, but the core of what I listen to is Pink Floyd, Led Zeppelin and Black Sabbath.”

Write to Jen Murphy at workout@wsj.com

7 comments
David Ecale
David Ecale user

I'll save up for the funeral lei to toss into the waves when he performs his final ride in a few years.

Karl Scherrer
Karl Scherrer subscriber

@David Ecale "It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat." - Theodore Roosevelt 

 

David Kaveh
David Kaveh subscriber

@David Ecale yea right, you are way more likely to drown on your next summer vacation after you get caught in a rip current swimming in a lagoon you kook!

David Ecale
David Ecale user

@David Kaveh @David Ecale  I *never* venture out on the water without a life jacket! I learned that lesson in the BWCA with a crowd of Boy Scouts many years ago!

---

PS. I don't expect to drown at a Dog Show!

Thomas Connelly
Thomas Connelly subscriber

Very impressive:  You got this journalist to let you sell your movie and your

goofy massage stick under the guise of a workout article!   Not to gnarly for a surfer dude.

RALPH WRIGHT
RALPH WRIGHT subscriber

Go John John!


But, lose the music.  Been there.  Done that.


Get some 'light' in the tunes for some 'light' on the boards.

Show More Archives
Advertisement

Popular on WSJ

Editors’ Picks