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Saturday, June 10, 2017

Food

City Kitchen

A Juicy Tenderloin, a Pesto Swirl

A beef tenderloin roast with zesty, garlicky pesto swirled inside is a good choice for an elegant outdoor dinner.
Karsten Moran for The New York Times

A beef tenderloin roast with zesty, garlicky pesto swirled inside is a good choice for an elegant outdoor dinner.

For many, a summer gathering means meat on the grill. Here’s an elegant way to do it.

A Good Appetite

The Simplest Shortbread You Can Bake

Homemade shortbread is a cinch to master and makes a wonderful counterpart to soft summer fruit.

Australia Makes Riesling Its Own

What makes a grape that flourishes in wine regions around the globe distinctive in this part of the world?

Hungry City

At Bep Ga in Chinatown, It All Begins With Chicken

The restaurant, all two tables of it, is wholly devoted to the bird — poaching it first in a hot bath of ginger, then slipping it into the steamer.

An Ingredient Yotam Ottolenghi Can’t Do Without

A chef makes a case for including tahini on the list of absolute essentials.

What to Cook This Weekend

It’s grilling time. Seize the warming days, and make jerk ribs or scallion lamb — even garlic bread or poundcake.

A Chef’s Quest in India: Win Respect for Its Cooking

The cookbook author and restaurateur Asha Gomez returns to her homeland, cameras in tow, hoping to elevate an oft-neglected cuisine.

How Cold Brew Changed the Coffee Business

The iced coffee drink has lifted the industry, creating enormous summertime demand for coffee and a whole new audience.

Pirate Joe’s, Maverick Distributor of Trader Joe’s Products, Shuts Down

For years, the renegade store celebrated its status as an unauthorized importer of Trader Joe’s goods with a blend of cheeky humor and David-versus-Goliath determination.

Eat

How Did I Not Know About Pork Gyros?

Discovering a classic, and common, Greek favorite in an unexpected place.

Restaurant Review

Some Food, a Plate, a Room. That’s Enough at King, in SoHo.

Despite the royal name, this small restaurant revels in the simple charms of its confident cooking.

Off the Menu

Cote, an Upscale Korean Barbecue Steak House, Opens in the Flatiron District

Public Kitchen opens on the Lower East Side, a Brooklyn outpost of Egg Shop opens in Williamsburg, and other restaurant news.

Hungry City

For This Soup, Some Assembly Is Required (and Provided)

Western Yunnan Crossing Bridge Noodle, in Sunset Park, excels at a deconstructed potage that servers combine at the table.

A Good Appetite

A Chicken-Roasting Method All Good Cooks Know

If you haven’t tried spatchcocking, which gives you a crisp bird with juicy meat in less than an hour, then it’s time to pick up the shears.

The Makings of a Delicious Eton Mess

It’s not pretty, but this take on Eton Mess puts rhubarb and strawberries to good use.

Wine School

Thrilling and Joyless? The Polarity of Sweet Riesling

German spätleses can walk a knife’s edge, and in this delicate tension lies their beauty. But not everybody sees it that way.

Cocktail Stirrer Celebrates Signature Move of Bartender

This cocktail stirrer is cast from the index finger of Gary Regan, a bartender known for being creative when it comes to mixing Negronis.

Learn to Make Pies With Former Gourmet Editors

Ian Knauer and Shelley Wiseman teach hands-on pie-making classes at the Farm Cooking School in New Jersey.

The Chef George Mendes Offers His Egg Tarts to Go

Pasteis de nata, flaky custard tarts, travel well in geometric boxes from the Portuguese restaurant Lupulo.

An Amaro From Galliano Makes Its American Debut

Galliano L’Aperitivo is a ruby-red bittersweet amaro that would work well in a Negroni.

Tahini Is at the Heart of These Vibrant Spreads

Sesame Kingdom sells sesame-seed spreads flavored with strawberries, figs and other fruits and vegetables.

Satay Bar Opens at Gansevoort Market

Skinny’s Satay Bar sells chicken skewers made popular at Philippe and Mr. Chow.

Restaurants and News
Stephen Speranza for The New York Times

The menu is rambling, featuring dishes like tempeh, goat skewers, and calamari gilded by salted duck egg yolks, but the waiters are patient guides.

Pardon My Sweat, and Pass the Borscht

At the Mermaid Spa, a luxurious bathhouse in Coney Island, a sybaritic immersion in scorching heat and Russian cuisine.

The South Faces a Summer With Fewer Peaches

A double punch of unseasonably warm winter weather and an ill-timed freeze has devastated crops in Georgia and South Carolina.

Packaging Food With Food to Reduce Waste

A lining made of milk, syrup shipped in mushrooms, and other innovations are in the works.

Fred A. Kummerow, an Early Opponent of Trans Fats, Dies at 102

Artificial trans fats were ruled unsafe by the Food and Drug Administration partly in response to a lawsuit that Professor Kummerow filed against the agency.

Restaurant Review

New Dumplings to Hunt, by Way of Hong Kong

A branch of Tim Ho Wan and a chef from Din Tai Fung set up in Manhattan.

Blue Apron, a Meal Delivery Service, Files for Public Offering

Sales are growing quickly for the popular meal delivery service, but losses are also mounting. The company is moving to go public while markets are near record highs.

Critic's Notebook

Why I’m Not Reviewing Noma Mexico

A chef aims for “the meal of the decade.” The Times’s restaurant critic, however, won’t be there.

The Jamaican Beef Patty Extends Its Reach

For many, the island snack is a taste of home. For others, it’s a new favorite.

Restaurant Review

An Identity Crisis at Italienne

The chef Jared Sippel’s restaurant is both French and Italian, formal and casual.

Hungry City

East Meets West, and Cafe Becomes Sake Bar, at Hi-Collar

This East Village restaurant changes personality at night, moving away from Western-leaning comfort foods toward more Japanese snacks.

‘Modern Mexican’ Steps Into the Spotlight

Mexican cuisine has made the leap to the global stage of fine dining, with chefs in Mexico and beyond producing creative, world-class food.

Cooking
Amanda Saab bakes her grandmother’s syrup-soaked cake in preparation for Ramadan at her home in Huron Charter Township, Mich.
Brittany Greeson for The New York Times

Amanda Saab bakes her grandmother’s syrup-soaked cake in preparation for Ramadan at her home in Huron Charter Township, Mich.

A month of fasting is punctuated with daily gatherings of family and friends, laden with nourishing food.

Summer Reading

Lemon White Pizza, Smothered Pork Chops, Pea Guacamole: 10 Takes on What to Cook This Summer

The best of this spring’s cookbooks remind us of the meaning and value of home-cooked meals.

City Kitchen

Edible Blossoms to Brighten Your Plate

Snip off the flowering tops of herbs to make a colorful compound butter for fish, chicken, vegetables or toast.

A Good Appetite

A Cheesy, Oniony Gratin That Brings a Family Together

A few members of the allium family — spring onion, leek and green garlic — benefit from a bread crumb and Parmesan topping.

Charcoal or Gas? Depends on What You’re Grilling

You get great smoky flavor from cooking over or beside coals or wood. But on a Wednesday night there is little easier than lighting a gas grill.

On Dessert

A More Perfect Cream Puff

Pâte à choux has been around for hundreds of years, but every pastry chef makes it new. Home cooks can, too.

City Kitchen

Beloved Burrata Finds a Springtime Match

This fresh cheese needs no adornment, just good bread, or perhaps a drizzle of olive oil and few arugula leaves, but a seasonal vegetable topping makes it more festive.

A Good Appetite

A Galette That Lets Early Strawberries Shine

A filling of the berries and pistachios makes a showstopping spring dessert.

The Chef

Sharing Moroccan Shakshuka With Mourad Lahlou

The San Francisco chef believes in the powerful connection of eating from the same pot, no plates required.

Another ‘Twin Peaks’ Puzzle: How to Make That Cherry Pie

The surreally wholesome dessert enthralled Dale Cooper and devotees of the cult TV series. Now, as the show returns, we go looking for the recipe.

Cooking Guide

How to Make Salad

With a little planning, the salad bowl can be the brightest spot of your meal.

City Kitchen

A Green That Does More Than Garnish

Watercress has a bright, peppery bite, and many excellent uses.

A Good Appetite

Crab, Meet Sugar Snap Peas

Sugar snap peas and crab get introduced in this fast and vernal weeknight dinner.

The Challenge of Perfect Phyllo

When it comes to rolling out thin pastry dough, we’re all on training wheels, compared with those who have plenty of practice.

Drinks
María José López de Heredia, above, who, with her sister, Mercedes, and brother, Julio César, runs the winery founded by her great-grandfather.
R. López de Heredia

María José López de Heredia, above, who, with her sister, Mercedes, and brother, Julio César, runs the winery founded by her great-grandfather.

Weighing aging wine versus terroir in a region of vast potential, where quality cannot be taken for granted.

Your Coffee Is From Where? California?

Farmers in Southern California are nurturing coffee bushes in what may be the first serious effort to commercialize beans from the contiguous United States.

Here, Try Some Mezcal. But Not Too Much.

The spirit’s new popularity in the United States thrills many Americans but worries others, who fear for its sustainability.

The Ideal Aperitif: Good Vermouth, Cool and Fragrant

Sweet or dry and infused with herbs, spices and botanicals, this often misunderstood fortified wine whets the appetite.

The Pour

Let’s Be Clear: Bad Wines Are Bad Wines, Period

The wine industry makes junk wine because it sells like junk food. Good wines can be cheap or expensive, but they need not be processed.

Return of the Campbell, an Ornate Grand Central Bar

After months of restoration, the former office of a railroad magnate is reopening with three bars, reservations and a more relaxed feel.

Surprise! Southern Comfort Has No Whiskey. But Soon It Will.

Trying to improve the image of a much-derided drink, its makers are planning a reboot, with the spirit many people think it already contains.

Learn to Cook
How to Grill

Our guide to the fundamentals and a handful of techniques to master, whether you’re a beginner or an advanced cook, using either a gas or charcoal grill.

Featured Recipes
Baked Brie
Caesar Salad
Coq au Vin
Bucatini all’Amatriciana
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How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

Culinary Travel
Bites
In Los Angeles, a Restaurant Equal Parts California and Middle East

The intense, surprising flavors at Kismet put an emphasis on the fresh, the bold and the bright.

U.S. Islands
On a Georgia Island, a Lot of Good Food and Plenty of Nothing

Cumberland Island offers memorable meals, fine fishing, wild horses, empty beaches and a rich history.

Bites
A London Kitchen Turning Out Israeli Street Food

Bala Baya, the latest and hippest of the English capital’s Israeli restaurants, serves extravagantly flavored dishes that transcend their humble roots.

Boîte
Et Al Replaces Experimental Cocktail Club on the Lower East Side

The bar is the latest from Damion Luaiye, the former creative director at the Gramercy Park Hotel.

Summer in the Hamptons: Eleven Madison Park and Uber (Finally!) Are Coming to the East End

From the toughest reservation in town to the return of the ride-hailing app, here are six things that Hamptonites will be buzzing about.

Bites
At Bay Area Restaurant, Roadside Food With a California Accent

The chef at Dad’s Luncheonette is an alumnus of Saison, the wildly expensive San Francisco spot. Dad’s is anything but.

Bites
In Copenhagen, New Nordic Meets Old Italian

At Restaurant Brace the produce and techniques of New Nordic cooking are applied to traditional Italian dishes and vice versa.

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