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Walking, strolling, shopping, people-watching, visitors to Schwabing might feel those days have been forgotten -- or reinvented to the point of being forgotten. Yet perhaps, as is appropriate in a part of the world where a contradiction is never far away, they also might feel that the present is a disguise, a facade, and sense that the old chaos might still hold its shape. Cafes, bookstores and architecture in Schwabing Cafes

At all the following cafes, a glass of beer is typically $3.50 (prices at 1.4 marks to the dollar), a cup of coffee around $2.85. Meal prices are for two people, including a bottle of wine.

Cafe Roxy, 48 Leopoldstrasse; telephone (89) 349 393. Open 8 A.M. to 3 A.M. daily. A meal comes to about $70. Salads and a "toast" (a slice of buttered white toast with cheese and perhaps meat, egg or other topping) are $6 to $11.75. Breakfast served all day for $6.35 to $13.90.

Cafe Reitschule, 34 Koniginstrasse (in the Englischer Garten); (89) 333 402. Open 8 A.M. to 1 A.M. (until 3 A.M. on weekends). Live music Tuesday, Friday and Saturday at 9 P.M., with an entrance fee of $3.50 to $7. A meal for two is about $70. Brunch on Sunday, 10 A.M. to 2 P.M., for $19.50; reservations recommended.

Drugstore, 12 Feilitzschstrasse; (89) 347 531. Open 9 A.M. to 1 A.M. daily. A meal comes to about $53.50. Toasts $5 to $11.40. Buffet breakfast is served between 9 A.M. and noon.

Restaurant im Chinesischen Turm (beer garden and restaurant in the Chinese Tower), 3 Englischer Garten; (89) 383 8730. The 7,000-seat beer garden has a self-service bar, and the restaurant has 150 seats. Open 10 A.M. to 11 P.M., daily. A meal comes to about $57.15. A pair of Nuremberg sausages or the vegetarian plate costs $9.65. Specialty is crusty roasted pork and sauerkraut, $11.

Cafe Puck, 33 Turkenstrasse; (89) 280 2280. Open 9 A.M. to 1 A.M. A three-course meal for two with wine comes to around $57.15, and a club sandwich costs $8.20. Known for its breakfasts, with prices from $3.55 for a croissant with butter and jam to $35 for a substantial meal, including two glasses of sparkling wine. Reservations suggested for breakfast on Saturday or Sunday. Bookstores

Anglia English Bookshop, 3 Schellingstrasse; (89) 283 642. Open weekdays 9 A.M. to 6 P.M., Saturday 10 A.M. to 2 P.M.

Hans Goltz, 54 Turkenstrasse; (89) 284 906. Open weekdays 9:30 A.M. to 6 P.M. (to 8 P.M. Thursday), and Saturday 9:30 A.M. to 1:30 P.M.

Literaturhandlung, 17 Furstenstrasse; (89) 280 0135 Open weekdays 9 A.M. to 6:30 P.M., Saturday 10 A.M. to 2 P.M. Landmarks

Ludwig-Maximilians Universitat, Geschwister-Scholl-Platz; (89) 21800. The university is open for visitors between 8 A.M. to 8 P.M. (No guided tours are available.)

Bavarian State Library (Bayrische Staatsbibliothek), 16 Ludwigstrasse; (89) 286 380. Open weekdays 9 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. Reading room open weekdays 9 A.M. to 7:30 P.M., and Saturday 9 A.M. to 4:30 P.M.; closed Saturday in August and September. Guided tours must be booked through Dr. Franz Poutner.

Academy of Fine Arts (Akademie der Schonen Kunste), 3 Max-Joseph-Platz; (89) 290 0770. Open (only during exhibitions) Tuesday to Sunday 10 A.M. to 4:15 P.M. Guided tours on request during exhibitions. The next exhibition, Nov. 24 to Jan. 14, is of paintings by Zoran Music, a Croatian, recalling his imprisonment at Dachau in World War II.

Photos: Hans Golz Bookstore.; Jugendstil decoration at 22 Ainmillerstrasse depicts Adam and Eve.; Beer garden at the Chinese Tower in the English Garden. (pg. 8); Looking down the districts's main thoroughfare, Ludwigstrasse, toward the Theatinerkirche (Theatine Church).; Ludwig-Maximillian University. (pg. 9) (Photographs by Herlinde Koelbl for The New York Times) Map of Schwabing