Tunisia
Jerry Sorkin, TunisUSA
888-474-5502 | info@tunisusa.com
Wayne, PA United States
http://www.tunisusa.com/
Condé Nast Traveler Says
Sorkin, who is conversant in Arabic, spends much of the year in Tunis (where his company has an office), and served as a World Bank consultant there following Tunisia’s revolution in January 2011. His trips link sightseeing—walks around Roman ruins and normally off-limits excavations, visits to beaches and mountain villages, shopping in city souks, drives through the Sahara—with human connections between travelers and everyday Tunisians (minimum price per day for two people: $600).
Have you returned from a trip arranged by this travel specialist? If so, please scroll down to add your review. Be sure to include your name (please, no anonymous reviews), the destination(s) to which you traveled, the month/year of your trip, and your advice for anyone planning to hire this travel planner. If you'd prefer to comment privately, please email Condé Nast Traveler's Wendy Perrin.
Travelers Say
A Week in Tunisia, October 2012: sun, sky, sea, ..., history, ..., citizens
For years, my wife Susan insisted that we had to go North Africa, to Tunisia. For years, I resisted. (Actually, for many years, there was no reason to resist: it was just out of the question.) But all of a sudden, in 2012, it was a real possibility. Tunisia: land of allure, with sun, sky, sea, culture, history, food, and land of liberation, liberation from the Arab winter into the Arab spring, and especially, as we found, interesting, warm, and passionate people. We decided to go. And we asked my sister Mary and her partner Dorie to join us.
There is so much to see and do in Tunisia. From the outside, the first things to attract one's attention are the striking geographical features---sun, sea, rivers, lakes, mountains, deserts---and the historical tapestry written over this basis---Numidians, Phoenician settlements, Carthage and its Punic wars with Rome, the Roman occupation, the early Christian presence and church of St. Augustine, then Moslems, Andalusians and Jews from Spain, then Turks, then the French, up until the relatively recent events of World War II, and the demise of French colonialism. The Gulf of Tunis is breath-takingly expansive, with mountains cropping up on the horizon just where you least expect them, all the way out to the end of Cap Bon.
Our initial idea was to stake out a base in a hotel in the heart of Tunis, explore the souk and the surrounding towns (Carthage, especially) and tourist sites (especially, Dougga, Kairouan, and El Jem), and use the spokes of the public transportation system to reach points of interest in a variety of directions.
But before we left, Mary and Dorie happened to have dinner with Roger Allen, a Penn professor whose former student Jerry Sorkin is the founder of TunisUSA, an organization offering guided tours of various length s and other dimensions of Tunisia. We quickly came to appreciate the benefits that would accrue by traveling under the aegis of TunisUSA and these benefits mounted and multiplied quickly: extensive knowledge of local conditions, sensitivity to the diverse interests of the members of our small group (geography, history, art, culture, politics, food, markets, people, people, people, ...), local arrangments, monitoring of local weather, possible strikes, and any other disturbances.
As a result, our initial base was the beautiful town of Sidi Bou Said, high on a hill overlooking Carthage and the Gulf of Tunis below, with the mountains of Cap Bon in the distance to the east across the water. We traveled to the ruins of Utica, to the port town of Bizerte (with its souk, open market, and harbor); explored the historical site of Carthage (whose strategically placed harbor is easily found) and the Akropoleum and museum up above the ruins; we drove south along the old Roman aqueduct to the ruins of Thuburbo Majus, returning via the mountains and the waters of Zaghouan; and we took in the remarkable range of Roman mosaics collected in the Bardo Museum---all within striking distance of the Sidi Bou Said, with its white-washed, blue-trimmed houses, sparkling in the sun, and excellent restaurants virtually next to our hotel.
We then embarked on a counter-clockwise circular tour, whose principal historic sites included Dougga, Kairouan, and El Jem---interlaced with stops at the vibrant town of Testour; a roadside barbecue of lamb, mechoui, and harissa; a stop at Dar Chennoufi and a quick tour of the kasbah at El Kef; a rug merchant in Kairouan; the sea and the market and the surprisingly rich museum in Sousse; another wonderful impromptu lunch at the peak of the hilltop town of Takruna; ending with a view over the gulf of Tunis from the mountains of Cap Bon, watching a late afternoon rainstorm rolling in dramatically.
Throughout this trip, we were accompanied by a remarkable guide, Hatem Bourial, trilingual in Arabic, French, and English, with a deep appreciation for the sweep of Tunisian history and culture, and very sensitive to our interest in connecting not just with the past but also with the present day Tunisian populace, in the streets and markets. At first we thought that Hatem knew everyone! But we came to realize that his ease in striking up conversations in any circumstances was just another of this gifts, and the conversations rapidly came to include us as well, as we sought to connect with the stories and aspirations and needs of Tunisians in many walks of life.
In addition to enhancing our experiences and the value of our trip, Hatem (and our driver Ritha) went to great lengths to ensure that we did not end up in the wrong place at the wrong time. While winds of change are blowing across Tunisia, we never felt at all unwelcome or uncomfortable. Hatem's two busy cell phones and his expansive network and many connections across the Tunisia made sure that we didn't accidently blunder into a strike or a political demonstration or any other event where we might have been out of place or inconvenienced. (But traffic jams! They've probably been a part of Tunisia since the Romans.)
Dick Oehrle
November 7, 2012
Travelers Say
We recently included a stop in Tunisia on our way from Jordan to Morocco. We had a great time. The stop was short but TunisUSA made it worthwhile. The accommodations at the Villa Didon were modern and clean. It is a great neighborhood and included a nice continental breakfast brought to our room each morning, Our veranda over looked the Mediterranean and the Carthage neighborhood. A great way to start the day. The hotel staff was fairly helpful and friendly. They had a working understanding of English. The hotel bar / restaurant seemed like one of Tunis’ hot spots in the evening. We thought the prices seemed reasonable at the hotel, and wherever else we went in Tunisia. As is often the case, the tour guide can make the trip worthwhile, or not. The TunisUSA guide did a very nice job. He was knowledgeable, resourceful and friendly. We saw a number of important historical sights. We also got a feel for Tunis today. The driver was attentive as well. We never felt threatened or insecure. We drove by some of the more politically sensitive areas, as they relate to Americans, on more than one occasion. The guide discussed how he felt most Tunisians felt about those events. The one glitch we had was a restaurant reservation that Lorraine and I put more of the blame on the restaurant than on the guide. We did get fed, eventually. Tunisia really turned out to be a great choice for us.
Lorraine and Charlie Sewich
November 6, 2012
Travelers Say
My husband, daughter, and I were in Tunisia in early September of this year and had a wonderful experience. We live in California, but our daughter is a graduate student in Switzerland, and Tunis is only a two-hour plane flight from Zurich. She and I had originally been looking for an Easter break destination, as it appeared that her plans had fallen through. We looked for a warm destination within easy reach of Zurich and were intrigued by Tunisia. As we were going to be two women traveling in a Muslim country where we didn’t speak the language, I wasn’t willing to engage in her usual version of student travel – that is, show up, find a hotel, and wander around. I wanted to be escorted by a guide who knew what was worth seeing and what to avoid and could help us navigate the cultural divide. Jerry Sorkin at Tunis USA put together an absolutely spectacular itinerary with a car, driver, and guide – lots of antiquities, a little beach time, and the best hotels – all at a veryaffordable price. When my daughter’s original Easter break trip reconstituted itself we decided that we would visit Tunisia when my husband could also go.
Tunis USA made our trip comfortable, safe, and very memorable. We felt welcomed from the moment we entered the terminal at Tunis, when a couple of our fellow travelers chatted with us while we waited for our bags (most urban Tunisians speak French and many speak English, so communicating wasn’t a problem). We never felt threatened in any way, nor did we sense any anti-American bias against us. And as we spent most of the trip outside the Tourist Zone, we met quite a few Tunisians from all walks of life. In this we were aided by our truly exceptional guide. Rather than contracting with a professional guide, Tunis USA had arranged for us to be guided by a well-known Tunisian author and journalist who writes about Tunisian history and culture. His superb guidance made the trip something that we will always remember and talk about. It wasn’t just that he knew his Tunisian history and antiquities forwards and backwards and could tie together the trends in art, culture, and politics for the last 2,500 years. It was his instincts as a journalist – his ability to seek out interesting people and events – that made the trip so enriching. Much as we enjoyed seeing the historical sites, museums, etc., what I think willreally stand out in my memory are the connections with the Tunisians that we made through him. We chatted with teachers protesting for better working conditions in front of the government buildings in Tunis, workers eating Leblebi at lunchtime, young guides in training at the Kasbah in El Kef, Jerba Jews observing the Sabbath, and the list goes on. We even joined the celebration of a circumcision in Kairouan. We experienced nothing but good will and hospitality from the people we met, but this may have been in part because our guide followed the news closely and was careful to keep us away from anyplace where there might be trouble.
The countryside is lovely, and the historical sites are truly remarkable. It was extraordinary to walk through a countryside that has been farmed and built on for almost 3,000 years. The trip to Dougga and Bulla Regia was a real stand-out. At each site we stopped by the side of the road and walked out into a complete ruined city surrounded by wheat fields, olive and fig trees, and shepherds with their flocks still using the old Roman roads, feeling as if we had stepped back in time. The collection of mosaics in the Bardo Museum was so vast as to be overwhelming, but standing in the underground villa in Bulla Reggia with its intact mosaics suddenly put into perspective how those mosaics would have been experienced in everyday life. Seeing some of the sites of early Christianity in Carthage was also fascinating; we had no idea what a pivotal role Tunisia played in the development of Catholicism. We also really enjoyed seeing the big public works projects – the cisterns and baths of Carthage, the old Punic harbor, the amazing stadium at El Jem, and the aqueduct and water temple. The Northern countryside felt very familiar with its golden fields studded with green trees below a blue sky, but then we’d drive past a group of camels and think, we’re NOT in California any more, Toto! We also enjoyed the trip to Matmata and the Star Wars sites. The steep hills and dry chaparral provided a dramatic background for the Berber homes and villages, and the family that we visited in their Troglodyte home could not have been more welcoming.
Would I make this trip now? While the reports coming out of Tunisia would certainly concern me, our experience makes me believe that those perpetrating the violence are a tinyminority of the population. Most Tunisians, especially the young, wish for a secular democracy and hope to be a part of the First World. With a savvy guide and experienced driver such as we had, it should certainly be possible to avoid the areas of possible violence, just as we have always been able to avoid the risky sections of some California cities. I would certainly not make the trip without a knowledgeable guide, but based on our experience of working with Tunis USA, it should be possible totravel there safely and comfortably.
Debbie- Belvedere, CA
November 4, 2012
Travelers Say
We returned home a month ago, having arrived in Tunisia four days after the demonstration at the US Embassy and the French cartoon uproar. We had designed a custom itinerary with Sorkin and TunisUSA.
We’ve subscribed to Conde Nast Traveler (and clipped from it) for years and years and years, and always read Wendy Perrin’s column and utilize the annual “Specialists” list, which is why we chose Sorkin and his company. Our interest in Tunisia was piqued by a CNT article a few years ago (which we clipped and saved). The decision to go was triggered by the Room With A View photo of Ksar Ghilane (also clipped). And we had it arranged by a CNT-listed Country Specialist (clipped as well).
Security was absolutely a non-issue. A complete absence of tension anywhere. That we were Americans simply did not matter (except for some who apologized for the incident at the Embassy a few days earlier). Everyone was courteous. There was never a taunt or even an “edge” to people’s interactions with us (which we sometime encounter in other countries). There was no police or military presence anywhere, nor was there any sense that it would even be appropriate. We felt perfectly safe at all times in all places. We comfortably walked around at night, including in the medina. We were dealt with like any other tourist from anywhere. (And the Tunisians are experienced; tourism is the second or third largest income source!)
TunisUSA’s guides were terrific. (We had two, because we split up our Tunisia tour with a side trip to Malta.) Sorkin touts that his guides are not full-timers, but rather are people from other walks of life with deep knowledge of Tunisa. That was the case with us, and it was a real plus. We had two university professors, one an archeologist. They lent a comfortable level of intelligence and maturity and sophistication which tracked quite nicely with our own. They had a great sense of humor and were fun to be with. In addition to fluency, they were attuned to “American” culture. They were flexible and accommodating and achieved the right balance of being attentive while leaving us alone and recognizing the independence we desired.
Our itinerary was relatively thorough and included Sahara, villages, hiking, cities, coastal areas, antiquity sites, Tunis, museums, medinas, etc., etc. It was a great trip!
It was quite apparent to us, throughout our time in Tunisia, that Jerry Sorkin is the most recognized and respected American involved in Tunisian tourism.
He was extremely responsive and invaluable to us as we designed our own itinerary. His Tunisian “smarts” and extensive knowledge of sights and hotels, etc., (the result of the years he has spent living and working there) was a huge help in our decision making. And his flexibility and acceptance of our special interests and idiosyncrasies was welcome and refreshing.
Obviously, we ended up completely enamored of Sorkin and his operation. Thanks for pointing us in his direction.
Kiefer and Mary Mendenhall
November 3, 2012
Travelers Say
My wife and I went to Tunisia this past 3/25-4/6/12 as part of a group of about 15 former Peace-Corps volunteers, spouses, and other Americans who had worked in Tunisia in the late 1960’s. Not having been back since then, I was eager to see the country again from the perspective of 4-1/2 decades of change and development--mine and Tunisia’s. We were especially interested in the effects of the revolution 15 months previous.
We had a superb guide, Hatem, a journalist, author and enthusiastic teacher who brought alive the area’s rich history, ancient and modern. Jerry had designed the trip with input from the participants; and we managed to visit the places where each of them had served as we hit many of the high points of Northern and central parts of the country. We also made a number of special visits, lunching once at an NGO that teaches women marketable skills. Another time we were lunch guests on a large working farm that was reminiscent of those Roman estates whose excavated architecture and mosaics we had been appreciating. I was the only volunteer who had served (as an English teacher) in the distinctive southern region. (Since I left it had become famous: Star Wars had been shot there!) As time and energy did not permit the group to go that far, Jerry helped me set up a side trip with my wife and another couple. Again, we were set up with an excellent guide, Sofiene, an educator and writer who knew people and places and helped me locate an old teacher colleague.
Jerry himself joined us on two occasions, so we got to know him personally. We had already exchanged so many e-mails that I had a sense of him. He had modified the itinerary following one of my friend’s suggestions, and I liked that. He was a very hands-on tour organizer. The group particularly appreciated having him with us in Le Kef, where hotel choice was very limited: he made sure that everything went smoothly. We also came to respect him as someone who has made it his mission to foster understanding between different cultures and religions. By a happy coincidence (or maybe just because he knows so many people), he knew one of my former students and helped arrange a meeting between us.
Of course we had considered security issues when we signed up to go to Tunisia. Once we arrived we saw that we would be in safe hands. My wife and the rest of our group felt the same as I did. With my 2-year experience of Tunisians in the 60’s I was soon reassured that the basic cultural values had not changed: hospitality was still a paramount virtue in Tunisian society. I remembered how female volunteers in villages and small towns could walk the streets at night without fear because they were known to be guests of a local family, so the entire town felt the duty to protect them. Now we were guests of our guide, Hatem, who stayed in touch with a large network of friends and connections, his own and Jerry’s. He kept advised of conditions and any possible problems that might occur along our route. If the bus got lost in a town he simply hailed a taxi to pilot us back to a main road. Once along the winding roads in an oasis we came to a new bridge too low to let our bus pass. We were stopped next to a café. Hatem spoke to the owner who promptly got in his car and piloted us back to the highway. I am sure the café owner regarded this as a simple duty of hospitality to his county’s guests.
With the old repressive government gone for just over a year, the new government is just getting established. However we saw few signs of lawlessness. It is significant that the Tunisian revolution was almost entirely non-violent. The only vandalism that we observed was a burned-out urban villa that had belonged to a corrupt presidential son-in-law. Its ruins had been decorated with rather tasteful graffiti, some humorous, some artistic. My favorite expressed a hope for a Republique Islaïque, combining Islamic with laïque, secular. We did complain that the street-sweeping was not always the best and anti-dumping laws not always enforced along the highways. We noticed that many new buildings were going up, likely without permits. (I imagine that getting a building permit under the old government had required an exorbitant bribe.)
During our stay we saw broadcasts of small Islamist demonstrations. They wanted to exert an influence on the new constitution that was being written. I also saw posters and graffiti supporting the Palestinians. Nowhere was there any evidence of anti-American sentiment. People we met were always gracious. Tunisia has a strong secularist tradition and has always wanted to do business with Europe and America. They are a practical, not an ideological people. It is true that Saudi and Quatari money is being used to support Islamist organizations, but they are concerned with local opponents. Even Tunisian Islamists are not going to let fanaticism override their sense of hospitality to Americans or other foreign guests. We spoke to some, with whom Hatem was having a friendly debate, and they were quite happy to speak with us too.
On a more personal note, having taught English in Tunisia, I felt a particular satisfaction to see how English has become more widely known, although Arabic and French are still the two main languages. One often sees trilingual street signs. When I visited my former student, a merchant in the touristic Isle of Djerba, he spoke to me in excellent English, and mentioned that he had learned several other languages as well. Both his daughters are English teachers! When I went to find my former teaching colleague, a very conservative Muslim, I found that he had told his children stories of his American friend from long ago. It was a joyous reunion!
I hope this gives the flavor of our wonderful visit to Tunisia, made possible by Jerry’s excellent planning and wide social network, and by the guest-friendly Tunisian character. My wife and I would gladly and confidently go back again, Inshallah! Readers of Conde Nast can safely experience this fascinating country. In overcoming the stereotyped fears of Muslims and Islamic countries that have unfortunately been encouraged by segments of our press, they will be contributing to the global understanding which we sorely need for our world to have a future.
Jeff Richards
November 3, 2012
Travelers Say
I am a retired attorney and was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Tunisia 45 years ago. I was fortunate to have returned again to Tunisia last year with a terrific Returned Peace Corps Volunteer tour created by TunisUSA. Although there were a few political demonstrations in other cities while we were there, we felt completely secure and had no safety concerns at any time.
We were in country from March 25 until April 4, 2011, covering the country by bus from the Tunis medina to Douz and the great Chott El Djerid. We stayed in the northern cork forests near the Algerian border, visited popular beaches from near Sidi Bou Said to Monastir, saw the rich farmlands of the Tell and the Medjej River valley, and enjoyed the oasis at Tozeur. Our guide could not have been better; the hotels and food (Brik, grilled camel, diglet nour, couscous), and the archeological sites at Carthage, Bulla Regia, Dougga, Sousse, and El Djem were memorable, as expected. I avoid taking tours, but the TunisUSA trip was more of a reunion, interpersonal exchange, and an educational experience.
Tunisia has some of the best, accessible, Punic, Roman, and Arab sites that can be found anywhere. However, the most memorable impressions were left by the people themselves. Where ever we went, Tunisians were delighted to know that we were from America. I felt the same generosity and friendliness that we experienced over 40 years ago. Our group met, talked, and laughed with old Tunisian friends and new acquaintances at every stop.
I understand there are economic problems and serious political issues that need to be resolved during the continuing governmental transition, but the Tunisian people are the same, and I wouldn't hesitate to visit again if the opportunity arises.
Gerry Gress
November 1, 2012
Travelers Say
We wanted to note how your Tunisia specialist, Jerry Sorkin, has brought attention to the social needs of our country, both prior to and particularly following our January 2011 Revolution. When so many tour operators fled Tunisia, fearing what may follow the Revolution, or continued to concentrate only on bringing mass tour groups to lay on our beaches, Jerry has organized various delegations; from universities, civil society, museums, political and simply… Americans who want to know more about our country than just historical aspects or resort hotels. The result is that these Americans are seeing the real Tunisia. Some have left Tunisia and have kept in touch with our NGO’s efforts with regards to follow up on our programs regarding women’s empowerment or teaching the “unbankable” how to develop businesses and obtain micro-loans to develop small businesses. One client took it upon herself to hold a photo exhibition in the US and sent the entire amount raised from sales of photographs to our NGO. Please see the flyer of the exhibition attached. Mary Tiryak, one of the TunisUSA travelers who visited our NGO, succeeded in reflecting her own journey in Tunisia through the faces she has been photographing. Jerry Sorkin does not bring tourists to Tunisia, but rather, Americans who want to meet Tunisians, talk to Tunisians, eat Tunisian, live and feel the history of Tunisia. If this is called tourism, then Mary’s photo exhibition was proof of a human experience and not just a trip. Call it tourism, or simply a new way for Americans to appreciate our country, particularly with the newfound freedoms that Tunisians have. We had never had companies approach us previously. We have to attribute this attention and exposure we are now receiving to TunisUSA’s efforts with regards to Jerry's interest in social responsibility. It has brought out NGO increasing recognition and support from various international embassies in Tunisia, as well as a variety of donor organizations.
If this is what people refer to as “cultural tourism”, then we understand why your magazine named Jerry Sorkin a "Top Travel Specialist".
Chéma Gargouri
November 1, 2012
Travelers Say
My friend and I very much enjoyed our Tunisia trip. We went for the Roman ruins and they were magnificent. We visited Dougga (a World Hertiage site), Bella Regia with underground villas, Sbeitla with a spectacular three temple complex and El Jem with one of the finest amphitheaters in the world. We also enjoyed the other aspects of the trip more than we thought we would. A ride into the edge of the Sahara was fun and a visit to a Troglodyke home was exceedingly interesting. We went with TunisUSA and our guide and driver were very competent, friendly, knowledgeable and helpful. The hotels were first rate and the itinerary excellent. Our trip began on September 25 and after the events of September 14 and the State Department warning, we came very close to canceling. After talking to Jerry Sorkin of TunisUSA, who was in Tunisia at the time, we decided to go ahead with the trip. Our group ended up being three women, 65, 70 and 85 years of age. We felt very safe and well taken care of. Even when we were by ourselves, we never felt at all uncomfortable and everyone was friendly and happy to have Americans visit. Even though my friends were sure I was taking my life in my hands going to Tunisia, I loved every minute of the trip and never had occasion to even think about my safety.
Carolyn Todd
November 1, 2012
Travelers Say
We've traveled all over Europe, to China, India, Japan, Thailand, South Korea, Turkey and more, but our two-week tour of Tunisia in April 2012 ranks among the most memorable. We have vicariously enjoyed some of the Conde Nast iconic tours (India, Turkey, China) and we'd love to read something on Tunisia.
Being there a year after the uprising, we saw and sensed great excitement about the new freedom. Tunisian flags waved produly everywhere--unlike when the dictator reigned. There was impatience to see things change more quickly, of course, but they were learning that democracy is not always easy.
Arriving in Tunis, we were greeted by Fawzi ben Zaga, from the TunisUSA agency. The Renaissance man was not only an A+ guide, but became our friend as well. A highlight of our trip came the last day, when Fawzi invited us to his home to meet his physician wife Rowda and their two bright and lovely daughters and to share in a classic Tunisian meal.
My wife and I set up our trip with TunisUSA after friends of ours had come back from TunisUSA right after the uprising and were enthusiastyic about the experience. We are so glad we did.
Ron Martin
November 1, 2012
Travelers Say
Thank you for the recommendation on Jerry Sorkin of TuniaUSA whom we used for a trip to Tunisia this past April. We had also booked Libya with him but needless to say that part of the trip was cancelled. Jerry was brilliant and we have since recommended him to friends.
His local guide, Hatem Bourial, is without a doubt the best guide we have ever had in our lives... and I'm now up to 107 countries.
Peter I. Volny
November 23, 2011
Travelers Say
We loved our trip to Tunisia! We are experienced travelers and visiting Tunisia compared favorably with any of our other trips around the world. Our tour was the circuit around the country, and we enjoyed each part. The Roman ruins and excellent museums excited our visions of past cultures. As we drove, we were fascinated by the changing scenery of mountains, forest, farms, cities, villages, savannah, desert, and oases. The cities had impressive forts and mosques with vibrant souks and cheerful merchants. We cannot compliment TunisUSA enough. The trip was expertly planned and executed. The hotels were very modern with helpful staff; they had lovely pools and enticing breakfast buffets. Tunisian food was an entrancing mix of cuisines from the Mediterranean region. Our guide was the best we have ever had; he was experienced and enthusiastic. He talked expertly about Tunisian history and culture, but also about its economy and politics. We have never had a guide who so accommodated our desire to modify our itinerary for brief stops. Between planning our trip and taking it, the Jasmine Revolution happened. We enjoyed experiencing Tunisians' discovery of democracy and free-speech. People spoke freely with us, and expressed hope for their future. People were uniformly friendly and welcoming. To repeat, we loved Tunisia and plan to return with our children when they are a little older.
Stephen Waring
July 25, 2011
Travelers Say
My wife, Ruth West, and I visited Tunisia in early April and enjoyed it thoroughly. From he vestiges of the Carthaginian and Roman eras to the modern hotel accommodations on the Mediterranean at Sousse (and many adventures in between) we relived ancient history and partook of the hospitality of the people who had created the first success in the Arab Spring. We did not encounter any experience that caused us any personal anxiety despite the recent civil unrest and the beginnings of plans for a new government. To walk on Avenue Bourguiba and listen to the many vigorous impromptu debates that were present there was, indeed, exhilarating. Our guide, Fawzi, and our driver were professional, knowledgeable, and pleasant companions during our 10 days in Tunisia and the itinerary provided by TunisUSA was well paced and thorough. Robert E. (Bob) Wells
Robert E. (Bob) Wells
July 5, 2011
Travelers Say
I have just returned from an Educational Mission to Tunisia, attended by 12 Americans, and arranged by Jerry Sorkin, a well-known expert on North Africa and the Middle East. Our Tunisian guide was Hatem Bourial, a newspaper columnist, radio and TV commentator, and an expert in the literature, culture, and history of Tunisia. My journey through this wonderful country revealed to me the progress Tunisia has made since the December-January revolution. Tunisia is a country filled with the promise of democracy, but suffering from poor a poor location. Many members of this Educational Mission had been warned by family, friends, and the U.S. State Department about the dangers of traveling through Tunisia, which is bordered by Algeria to the east and Libya to the west. However, none of us felt threatened or uneasy while we traveled through Tunisia, starting from Tunis in the north to the island of Jerba in the south. We stopped for several hours, sometimes overnight, in Dougga, the city of Temples; Sousse, a popular resort on the Mediterranean; Kairouan, the holy city and the site of the oldest Mosque in North Africa; Sidi Bou Zid, where the revolution began; Sfax, Tunisiaâs largest industrial city; and Matmata, where the first Star Wars movie was filmed. Our group consisted of renowned photographers and documentary film-makers; a paleontologist, an archaeologist, and an economist; and a young man who worked for an American NGO in Rwanda last year, and who this year has created his own business designing children's digital games. All of us enthusiastically embraced Tunisia and its people. Tunisians are beautiful, very intelligent, generous, open-minded people, with a history reaching back from the Bronze age to the Phoenicians of Carthage, followed by the Romans, the Byzantines, the Arabs, the Spanish, the Ottomans, and the French. All of these ancient civilizations and modern occupiers have left their mark on the Tunisian landscape, language, and culture. The multicultural spirit of this country is unmistakable. Its people are tolerant, indeed respectful, of religious differences. They take pride in their commitment to womenâs rights, and to education for all from primary school through college. However, the revolution in Tunisia and the continuing battle for democracy in Libya have taken a toll on the tourist industry, which before the so-called "Arab spring", supported many Tunisians. Other industries have been hurt as well, as investors shy away from possible turmoil. The unemployment rate is high, with too many unemployed below the age of 25. These are problems that can be alleviated somewhat by improving Americaâs image of Tunisia as an inspiring and rewarding place to visit. I plan to return with my husband to Tunisia in the Fall, and hope that other Americans will travel soon to this country that is rich with history and promise for the future. TunisUSA's idea of creating a special way for travelers to understand and enjoy Tunisia, as well as helping us understand the revolution through the many opportunities we had in meeting Tunisians, was a unique way to not only learn about and enjoy Tunisia, but to see how different Tunisians are and how their country is handling their post-revolutionary period, as well as how different Tunisia's situation is from the political upheaval taking place in other countries in North Africa and the Middle East. At a time when it seems all other companies have chosen to stay away from Tunisia due to a fear created by the unknown or overly protective State Department warnings, Jerry Sorkin channeled his long years of experience in Tunisia and the region in general, to put on a program that was not only enlightening, but a tribute to Tunisia and its people. Conde Nast Traveler certainly chose a specialist when it awarded Jerry Sorkin and TunisUSA their "Top Travel Specialist". Mary Tiryak Radnor Township, PA
Mary Tiryak
June 30, 2011
Travelers Say
Ms. Perrin: I gather that you are interested in hearing from people who have recently visited Tunisia. My wife and I were there from April 17 (my 65th birthday and her 57th - convenient sharing a birthday with your wife) to April 27. We are delighted to offer feedback since I believe that we have had a subscription to CNT since your very first issue and, even though we also have subscriptions to most of your competitors, we enjoy CNT the most... and we particularly love your column and often get a good chuckle out of Ombudsman also. We had booked a private six week trip, which originally included Libya, through TunisUSA. Needless to say Libya was canceled but Jerry Sorkin of TunisUSA assured us that Tunis was perfectly safe to visit and thankfully we listened to him. We are quite experienced travelers, having now been to 107 countries on all seven continents, but must admit that Tunis was one of our absolute favorites. From beginning to end it was awesome and entirely without problems. One anecdote - we were walking through a souk in Tunis when a wizened old man in traditional garb asked where I was from. Since we only became US citizens in February (I'm Australian and my wife is Canadian) I proudly answered "I'm from the United States", but was ready to defend myself physically. There was no need as he broke into a semi-toothless grin and said "We like Americans - you good people", and that's a verbatim quote! We covered over 2,500 kilometers by car plus a flight so we really saw a lot of the country. There were so many things that amazed and delighted us but I'll give you just a few examples. If you want more I actually keep a diary of all our trips so I can provide more detail if needed. Our personal favorite was the Coliseum at El Jem where we were amongst only a handful of visitors. To walk around this magnificent 1,700 year old structure that seated 35,000 people on your own was incredible. The same can be said of the ruins of the Roman town at Dougga dating back to the 6th century BC where in fact we were the only visitors. The town is amazingly well preserved and it's easy to spend a whole day exploring the temples, amphitheater and villas. The accommodations everywhere were wonderful right down to our tent in the Sahara. In Tunis we stayed at Le Residence. The food was fantastic as were the local wines of which we sampled many. One particularly memorable meal was our lunch at La Falaise in the La Marasa part of Tunis. We sat at a table high on a bluff overlooking the blue waters of Tunis Bay. I won't bore you with all the dishes but suffice it to say that grilled sardines and calamari, and fried red mullet are indelibly etched in our memories. After a huge meal washed down with ample wine the final surprise was the very modest bill. We were also blessed with the guide from heaven. Hatem Bourial is a non-practising lawyer, a television personality, a newspaper columnist, a lecturer and who knows what else. To say that he is knowledgeable is a gross understatement. Tunis is one of the undiscovered gems of the world and we are so glad we went. Our entire trip went off without even a hint of a hitch thanks to Jerry Sorkin of TunisUSA and Hatem Bourial. We cannot thank or compliment them enough. I think I'm going on too much but as said earlier I'd be happy to provide more of you wish. Best regards, Peter I. Volny Fountain Hills, AZ 85268
Peter Volny
June 30, 2011
Travelers Say
Being in Tunisia is like being in the midst of an exquisite kaleidoscope - so many pieces of mosaics, so many cultural, historical and geographical factors - so many beautiful images, so much to think about! Visiting Tunisia is a must, especially now in this exciting post-revolutionary period, when people are so happy to speak with Americans and when they are feeling so free and so eager to establish their democracy. I would love to be there for a longer period of time. Believe me, I feel more anxiety from the nightly surveillance helicopters flying over my house in Washington DC than I felt at any time during my visit to Tunisia. We had visited Tunisia shortly after September 11th with TunisUSA, as well as visiting Iran and Egypt through them. This is an exciting time to visit Tunisia. Visit Tunisia with TunisUSA!
Fran Swan
June 29, 2011
Travelers Say
I am writing to give you some feedback on my recent Tunisian travel experiences with TunisUSA. Jerry Sorkin organized a Post Revolution Educational Study Mission from May 15-25, 2011. When the idea was first posed, I wondered about the wisdom of traveling to a country which recently had a revolution that caused the President to flee the country. However, after talking to Jerry, he said that this is the ideal to visit, learn about the process of becoming a democracy and seeing the wonderful historical treasures of Tunisia at a time when tourist travel is light. The trip was truly a "once in a lifetime experience" and much better than I imagined before going. For me as a traveler with TunisUSA, I did not feel any concern about safety because both Jerry and Hatem Bourial (tour leader, guide and well known writer, TV and radio personality in Tunisia) are very well connected and made sure that we did not travel to any current trouble spots. Prior to the trip, Jerry had taken public transportation to the various locations that were included on the itinerary to personally assess the situation on the ground. On the other hand, we did experience access to many individuals who were directly involved in the demonstrations that lead to the regime change. And we visited the site of the self-immolation in Sidi Bou Zid where the revolution started. Even with visits to wonderful museums, beautiful antiquities, such as Dougga, and of course the wonderful Mediterranean coast, I personally found Sidi Bou Zid to be the most memorable. The town itself was not particularly remarkable but the events that occurred there have empowered people throughout the Middle East and have forced rulers in the region to grant many more freedoms to the people. Very inspiring!! One of the most important insights gained about the revolution is that details of the self-immolation of Mohamed Bouazizi differ widely but all agree that it was the spark that caused the revolution. Think about the American Revolution and the Boston Tea Party and other events that lead to our own Independence nearly 240 years. Perhaps the second most interesting experience was meeting with a Libyan rebel refugee. Being able to ask questions directly to people involved in the neighboring conflict was a truly unique and very current experience. The border is not closed between Tunisia and Libya. Travel and trade continue. The only question on a given day is who controls the border crossing on the Libyan side. While we did get close enough to see road signs to Tripoli, we were still a safe distance away and felt quite secure. Finally, this study tour provided opportunities to have dinner in various homes which provided direct access to people living their day to day lives while the country is changing politically. Life proceeds apace because it has to. Also, we had lectures interspersed with travel on such topics as education, Sunni Muslims, women's issues in the country and the role of NGO's. We attended a reception at the home of the Deputy Head of Mission for the U.S. Embassy where we met business leaders and several embassy personnel. A final dinner included representatives from the Foreign Ministry of Tunisia. All of these opportunities provided richness that is usually missing on group tours. Tunisia is a very welcoming country to tourists and is very comfortable for Americans. The dress is quite Western and the people were very friendly. It has the potential for become a model for the Arab world. I was honored to be on this trip and will be happy to answer any other questions that you may have. Shel Thompson P.S. I am a subscriber to CN Traveler. Although, Libya is not a good destination at the present time (very unfortunate timing with your article), Tunisia is wonderful and offers many of similar travel experiences in a very comfortable Muslim country.
Shel Thompson
June 29, 2011
Travelers Say
Dear Wendy Perrin and Kathryn Maier, I write to tell you about a trip I took to Tunisia in May, 2011, with Jerry Sorkin of TunisUSA, one of your Top Travel Specialists. My interest in this small, fascinating country began in the 60's when I spent two years there as a Peace Corps volunteer, teaching English in Monastir, a small coastal town and the birthplace of the then-president, Habib Bourguiba. I absolutely loved that experience - the rich culture, the moorish architecture, the earnest students, the lively women, the beautiful sea, the fresh food...Sadly, I never returned. When the opportunity to participate in this Educational Study Mission to Tunisia presented itself, I leapt! Having closely followed events, from the spark in Sidi Bou Zid to the subsequent unfolding of the full-blown revolution, I was intrigued with a post revolutionary visit. Lingering in the back of my mind was a recent article (in the Philadelphia Inquirer, I believe) written by a man who'd taken his young family to Egypt after their revolution. They found it the very best time to visit because of the ease with which they moved about historic sites with no lines! So, with strong encouragement from my husband and daughter, I signed on this exciting trip. (After that, my 30-something son, who lived and worked in sub-Saharan Africa for several years, but had never been to North Africa, freed himself up to share the experience with me.) Our group consisted of just 12 people with rich and varied backgrounds. Educators, economists, journalists, travel industry specialists, professional photographers, businessmen and engineers - all had a different lens through which they experienced the country. Our leader, Jerry Sorkin, had chosen a very knowledgeable Tunisian writer and historian, Hatem Bourial, to co-lead and to spend the entire 12 days with us. As a weekly newspaper columnist and a regular history and culture contributor on a national morning TV show, Hatem provided us with both background and context. Jerry Sorkin had pre-arranged a full agenda of activities that kept us intellectually challenged, on many levels, for about eighteen hours a day! Here are some highlights: Visiting four of the five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Tunisia A lecture on the revolution by a Tunisian who'd studied in the USA as a Fulbright scholar Meeting with a professor from the University of Sousse about his understanding of the revolution and his students' reactions to the responsibilities of citizenship in a democratic society Meeting with young leaders of the revolution Touring the ancient Punic and Roman sights of Carthage and Dougga A visit to an NGO providing micro-finance opportunities for women - and hearing from those women Meeting a young man who, with his friends, organized (in just one evening) forty families in the city of Kairouan to accept forty extended families of Libyan refugees Meeting with an extended family of Libyan refugees, hearing the specifics of their tribulations - and sharing dinner with their generous host family Sharing meals with four different Tunisian families A visit to La Ghriba Synagogue on the island of Djerba, one of many synagogues where Jews continue to live both openly and vibrantly with their Arab Muslim neighbors A visit to Matmata (known as the site of the filming of Star Wars), a town of troglodyte dwellings An impromptu meeting with the author of a recent best-selling book about historic events in the 30's (that have had an impact on today's events) regarding women's roles and rights in Tunisia An unplanned encounter with a Shakespearean actor who recited parts of MacBeth, with great flourish, on the streets of Sidi Bou Said, a spectacular town hanging in a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean...as a crowd gather to enjoy! Gorgeous hotels with marble lobbies and many pools, some on the beaches, others in central locations in towns Food so fresh...cantaloupe bursting with flavor, berries that had just been picked, fish caught that morning, unique combinations of herbs and spices, bread in every fashion you can imagine, dates that melted in your mouth... A population welcoming, friendly, hospitable and gracious I could expand on each of the above points - at great length! It was such a superb trip, especially since I'd lived there so happily years ago The Tunisian people were thrilled to see tourists and especially happy to learn we were Americans. Americans have always been warmly welcomed in Tunisia. As a Peace Corps volunteer, I was often seen as a sort of celebrity because Tunisia's then-president, Habib Bourguiba, had laid the groundwork, telling the citizens to welcome the new teachers and architects from the USA. This time, with no encouragement from authorities and all restraints lifted because of the revolution, people were free to speak their mind. And they did...they welcomed us, telling us of the restrictions they'd lived under, the malfeasance of the ousted administration, their hopes for the elections (now scheduled for October) and their cautious aspirations for a free and democratic civil society. We met youth who were fervently committed to making their country a better place, using their education to its best advantage and connecting freely (at long last!) with youth in other parts of the world. They hope to travel and be able to move freely about the world, learning from other societies. At the same time, it seemed to me, people were so very aware that Tunisia had begun something enormous and citizens seem to be collectively holding their breath, hoping all goes well as so much across the Middle East is resting on Tunisia's success. A big responsibility for a small country. I was astonished to read that 66% of the lawyers and judges in Tunisia are women. And I was equally astonished, at a reception held by the US Embassy to bring our group together with Tunisian business people, to hear several well-established businessmen say that Tunisia would never be where it is today without its women. Women, they said, are the backbone of the country, leaders in every regard, conveyers of wisdom in the society. This is not the impression Americans have of Muslim men's attitudes towards women...but Tunisia has always been different. When Habib Bourguiba succeeded in gaining independence from France in the 50's, upon becoming president he discouraged the veil, made it possible for women to divorce, gave women the right to vote and declared that everyone (most assuredly girls) must attend school to a certain age (16 I believe). This set the foundation for what Tunisia is today, a firm footing upon which to build. This trip was so intellectually engaging, so visually pleasing to a traveler's eye, so exciting for food lovers and locavores and very satisfying for anyone with a spirit of adventure. What made it so unique and exceptional is that it incorporated Tunisia's revolution and, in doing so, dispelled any misconceptions or concerns Americans might have about Tunisia...a country very different from others in the region that are going through political upheavals. TunisUSA's program was truly a special way to see Tunisia. Please call me at 267 475-0890 if you have any questions or would like me to elaborate! Sincerely, Bonnie Hamilton PS...And I am a loyal subscriber but under my husband's name.
Bonnie Hamilton
June 22, 2011
Travelers Say
Tunisian Trip, March 2010 Dear Jerry, You have done a wonderful job spreading your love of Tunisia to us by means of TUNIS, USA. The list of new knowledge and reinforcement knowledge given by you and Hatem Bourial, our guide,is fantastic. During the trip, Phoenician Numidian, Greek, Roman, Carthaginian, Punic, Berber, Bedouin, Jewish, Christian and Muslim group histories have all been sorted out, or defined for the first time...and in such a lovely, collegial manner. Our co-travelers were just as eager as we were to observe and meet current Tunisians and gawk at traces of ancient Tunisians. The food was delicious and the hotels varied and excellent. The ease with which our erudite and tireless leader, Hatem informed us, met and introduced teenagers, ancient grandmothers, shepherds and brick makers, potters and weavers, embroiderers and jewelry makers, rabbis and imans astounds us still. He deserves to be the TV star that he is in his other life. We had a good time in the markets, too. The night in the desert tent was COLD, but the views and camels were terrific. Your occasional festive visits were charming. We hope to be able to travel on another of your tours. With Thanks, Kay and Graham Finney
Graham and Kay Finney
May 23, 2010