We’re all creatures of habit, especially when it comes to the Shore. Like lotion-covered lemmings, we flock to the same town and seaside bars and restaurants year after year after year.
Well, it’s time to broaden your beach horizons, to think outside the sandbox and explore the rest of our unforgettable, unequaled 127 miles of coastline. In this entry, we explore what South Jersey has to offer.
For North Jersey's best beaches see our entry on Sandy Hook to Mantoloking.
For a Central Jersey's best beaches, see our entry on Bay Head to Holgate.
Hey, North Jersey: Yes, the southern Shore is another hour or more on the Parkway, but it’ll be so worth the drive.
Don’t be an idiot and try to do it in one day. Slow down, relax, stay the night — or weekend — in one of Wildwood’s plastic-palm-tree-decorated retro motels, or a charming B&B in cute, quaint Cape May.
In the Shore’s southern stretch you have Ocean City, “America’s Greatest Family Resort,” and Atlantic City, “Always Turned On,” “America’s Playground,” or whatever they’re calling it these days. Plus, there’s Wildwood, excitable as a 7-year-old on a roller coaster, and Cape May, which has minded its manners for the past 200 years.
It’s amazing how many people professing to be “real” Jerseyans admit they’ve never been to Wildwood. What are you waiting for? Wildwood boasts the state’s best boardwalk — more rides, more life, more action — and the widest stretch of sand this side of the Sahara. You’ll walk off all that pizza and ice cream and funnel cake just on your way to the beach.
Stone Harbor, Sea Isle and Avalon have been McShore-Mansioned to death, but the beaches are well-maintained and there are plenty of restaurants to go around.
You could walk into Atlantic City from Brigantine, but it might as well be a hundred miles away. Good beaches, great bakery (Aversa’s), and the Marine Mammal Stranding Center are here. Watch your speed limit, though. Cops often are stationed on Brigantine Boulevard as soon as you come over the bridge from AC.
For those who swear by Seaside, Ocean City’s boardwalk will come as a shock. No boardwalk is better, or more relentlessly maintained; cups, straws and fast-food wrappers are quickly snatched up by cleanup crews.
If you’re looking for a good time in “America’s Greatest Family Resort,” it’ll have to be alcohol-free. Ocean City is a dry town, which means no liquor stores and no bringing wine or beer to a restaurant. Restaurant owners have petitioned the town to overturn the ban. Good luck with that.
To me, the great appeal of the southern Shore is its quiet stretches. Sure, there’s the Big Four (Atlantic City, Wildwood, Ocean City, Cape May), but also tranquil, lesser-known places such as Strathmere (one of four free beaches in the state); the marshes and islands of Middle Township; West Cape May and Cape May Point.
DRIVING MADE EASY
Is the specter of endless traffic jams on the Parkway keeping you from making the hike south? Well, you don't have to take New Jersey's most detested highway if you're coming from North Jersey. Take the Turnpike south to Exit 7A, then I-195 east to Route 539 south, a beautiful windy woodsy drive past multiple Wawas all the way to Little Egg Harbor, where you can hop on the Parkway again.
Route 130 also will hook you up to Route 539 in case you get one of those 13-mile backups on the Turnpike. Or you can cut through the Pine Barrens on Route 206 and other southbound roads for the really scenic way to the southern Shore.
Yes, the Parkway is the more direct way, but if you’re not over the Driscoll Bridge by, say, 8 a.m. on a weekend morning, you’re going to be stuck in traffic for miles, and that planned two-hour trip will take three to four hours, or more. I’m dumbstruck by how many people start their Shore weekends in mid-morning. Leave earlier, or stay home. And whatever you do, don’t head back north on a Sunday night. You’re just asking for trouble.
SCENIC ROUTE
The best introduction to the lower third of the Jersey Shore is a ride down Route 619 from Ocean City to just above the Wildwoods. The road winds through Strathmere, Sea Isle City, Avalon and Stone Harbor before ending at Nummy Island and Grassy Sound. The most picturesque sections of the road — much of it known as Ocean Drive — vaults over tidal marsh through a series of toll bridges. It can get a little twisty at times, but keep an eye out for the Follow the Gull signs and you'll be all right.
Alternate drive: Route 9, one of the state’s more unglamorous highways up north, makes for a pretty drive through Cape May County. Lined with roadside motels, farm markets, miniature golf courses, campgrounds and modest homes, it’s a New Jersey we’ve all forgotten. And nothing like Route 9 through Middlesex and Monmouth counties.
ACT LIKE A LOCAL
Try working "Upper" "Middle" or "Lower" — as in the townships of the same name — into a sentence. They're basically the mainland communities west of the beachfront towns. Cape May, for example, is surrounded by Lower. I can't tell you how many times I've mentioned Lower in a story or sentence, only to be asked, "Lower what?''
ONE-OF-A-KIND SHOPS
• Princeton Antiques & Books
2917 Atlantic Ave.,
Atlantic City
(609) 344-1943
One of the state's great indie bookstores, jammed with titles both commonplace and rare. Also a large collection of AC postcards and memorabilia. The owner, Bob Ruffolo, is co-author of "Atlantic City — America's Playground."
GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL
I almost don't want to write about this, because it's my favorite hidden corner of the Shore, but a drive down Great Bay Boulevard from Tuckerton through Little Egg Harbor to the end of the road is one that will have you wondering: Am I still in Jersey? It's four miles of unlined, paved road past marsh, water, houses on stilts, two marinas; it's the southernmost point in Ocean County. You can see both the skyline of Atlantic City (look, the Borgata!) and the Route 37 bridge to LBI. Pull over and just enjoy the silence. Heading south on Main Street (Route 9) in Tuckerton, turn left onto Great Bay Boulevard, and follow it to the end. Don't worry, you're still in Jersey.
ON A RAINY DAY
• Historic Smithville and
the Village Greene
Route 9 and Moss Mill Road,
Smithville
(609) 748-6160
If only every shopping destination were as pleasant as Smithville. Fifty-plus shops, a dozen restaurants and other places to eat, cobblestone paths and a beautiful setting (the two town sections are separated by Lake Meone) make for a great escape from the beach, minutes from the Parkway. The stores at Smithville are more than just la-di-da shops. Underground sells punk rock apparel. Pawdazzle is a dog boutique and bakery. A Tour of Italy stocks gifts, clothing, music and specialty food from Italy. You can even stay overnight, at the Colonial Inn or The Barn.
BEST VIEW
• Absecon Lighthouse
31 Rhode Island Ave.,
Atlantic City
(609) 449-1360 or
Try to drag yourself out of the casino for an hour and visit the state's tallest lighthouse. Climb to the top for a thrilling 360-degree view of the city and beach. It's within easy walking distance of the Showboat and Taj Mahal. Visit abseconlighthouse.org.
A SLICE OF HISTORY
• Atlantic City Historical
Museum
Garden Pier, New Jersey
Avenue and the boardwalk
(609) 347-5839
It's almost criminal how few people have visited this evocative storehouse of AC memories. It's a trip down memory lane, equal parts nostalgic and laugh-out-loud funny. Don't miss the photo of the boxing cats. The museum is free. Go! Visit acmuseum.org.
FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT
Cape May gets all the attention, but tiny West Cape May is worth a visit. There are two good bakeries in town — Cape May Bakers and Ellie's — plus a cozy little brunch/lunch spot (Bella Vida), a specialty cheese store (Seaside Cheese Co.), several restaurants (Vanthia's and Black Duck on Sunset), even a tea room (The Butterfly Tea Room). And no Shore town hosts more agricultural-themed festivals. The Strawberry Festival will be held on June 4, the Tomato Festival on Sept. 3 and the Lima Bean Festival on Oct. 8. The Cape May Lighthouse and Sunset Point are minutes away. Visit westcapemaytoday.com.
DON'T YOU DARE LEAVE WITHOUT...
Paying Lucy a visit. I'm willing to bet 90 percent of New Jerseyans have never visited Lucy, the world's only six-story wooden elephant. Built in 1881 out of a million pieces of timber and 12,000 square feet of tin, Lucy was one of three elephants — the others were in West Cape May and Coney Island — built as tourist attractions. Only Lucy remains. You can walk inside and upstairs, to a museum of Lucy and resort memorabilia. In summer relax at the adjacent outdoor cafe. Visit lucytheelephant.org.
BITS AND PIECES
• In 1929, Atlantic City officials asked Margate if the city wished to become part of the city. Margate politely refused.
• An inscribed message on a bench in Townsend’s Inlet Waterfront Park: “My Heaven on Earth.”
• Avalon Recreation Field, Ocean Drive, is the best recreation complex along the Jersey Shore.
• Cape May claims to have the greatest concentration of wooden Victorian houses — 600-plus — in the country.
TOWN HANGOUTS
• C-View Inn,
1380 Washington St.,
Cape May
(609) 884-4712
Good beer selection, and the best burger in town.
• Crabby Jack's
Somers Point Circle,
Somers Point
(609) 927-7377
This outdoor bar is behind the well-known (and perpetually crowded) Crab Trap restaurant. Pull up a stool and drink in the awesome waterfront views. That's Ocean City in the shimmering distance.
• Irish Pub and Inn
164 St. James Place,
Atlantic City
(609) 344-9063
The best bar in AC? Right here. Great atmosphere, good food, and open 24 hours. There are even reasonably priced rooms upstairs.
STAY HERE
• Caribbean Motel
5600 Ocean Ave.,
Wildwood Crest
(609) 522-8292
Teeming with kitsch — a curvy, "levitating" stairway, spaceship-type lights, plastic palm trees and re-designed "Caribbean-retro" rooms — the Caribbean is a great place to spend the weekend and trip back in time. There are frequent barbecues and get-togethers during the summer.
• StarLux
305 E. Rio Grande Ave.,
Wildwood
(609) 522-7412
"The hippest, most unique boutique hotel on the Jersey Shore." There's something about "boutique hotel" that rubs me the wrong way, but this is a cool place to crash. Retro-furnished rooms, lovely lounge and a great pool. Reasonable rates, considering.
• Virginia Hotel
25 Jackson St., Cape May
(609) 884-5700
There are dozens of charming B&Bs and small hotels in this Victorian treasure chest of a town, but I'd choose the Virginia. It's small — only 24 rooms — but beautifully furnished. Great porch, and the added luxury of one of Cape May's best restaurants, The Ebbitt Room, right on the premises.
CAN'T MISS EVENTS
• May 27-30
International Kite Festival
The beach at Rio Grand
Avenue, Wildwood
The East Coast Stunt Kite Championships is held on the beach, while the World Indoor Kite Competition is held inside the Wildwoods Convention Center. Visit skyfestivals.com.
• June 20-24
National Marbles Tournament
Ringer Stadium
The beach at Wildwood
Avenue, Wildwood
The official national competition in marbles for boys and girls ages 8-14. Marble players are called mibsters, just so you know. Visit nationalmarblestournament.org.
• June 24-27
Polka Spree by the Sea
Wildwoods Convention
Center
4501 Boardwalk, Wildwood
You can only imagine this event — four days of practically nonstop polka music — in wacky, wired Wildwood. Bands galore. There's even a polka Mass!
• July 8-10
New Jersey State Barbecue
Championship
Anglesea Volunteer Fire Co.
201 New Jersey Ave.
North Wildwood
It's a mouth-watering, lip-smacking celebration that draws dozens of teams from around the country vying for best brisket, best ribs, best chicken and best-in-show. An added bonus — the Anglesea Blues Festival, which runs concurrently. Visit njbbq.com.
• July 16
Night in Venice Boat Parade
Longport Bridge to Tennessee Ave.
along the bay,
Ocean City
The City's annual boat parade is one of the largest in the world, drawing thousands of spectators who watch from grandstands set up along the route. There are awards for best decorated boats and bayfront homes and condos. From 6:30 to 8 p.m. Visit ocnj.com.
• July 30-31
Beach Ultimate Frisbee
Tournament
The Beach between Oak and
Poplar avenues, Wildwood
The world's biggest beach Ultimate Frisbee tournament pits lunging, leaping players and teams from across the country, with such names as Batman and Friends, Boom Shakalaka, Shopping Cart Full of Seaweed and This is Why I'm Hot. Ends with a beach party. Visit wildwoodultimate.com.
• Aug. 5
Greenhead Fly Festival
Tuckerton Seaport
Located at 120 Main St.
(Route 9), Tuckerton
(609) 296-8868
A festival devoted to the winged summer scourge from Tuckerton to Brigantine? There's nothing worse than a greenhead bite, but this summer festival will make you forget the pain, with games, fly trap demonstrations, blueberry pie contests and more. Tuckerton Seaport is worth a visit any time of year. Call it a maritime Williamsburg, with restored shops reflecting the baymen's tradition and culture. Visit tuckertonseaport.org.
• Aug. 11
102nd Annual Baby Parade
The Boardwalk between 6th
and 12th streets, Ocean City.
Wildwood and Ocean City have bickered in recent years over whose baby parade has run the longest, but as much as I love Wildwood, the Ocean City parade reigns supreme. In fact, it's the single greatest spectacle in any Jersey Shore summer. Two hours of kids dressed as princesses and angels, bathing beauties and beach bums, fruits and vegetables, all astride makeshift floats. It's a classic slice of Americana, seashore-style. Begins at 10:15. A.M. Visit ocnj.us.
• Aug. 15
Weird Contest Week
Music Pier, Moorlyn Terrace &
Boardwalk, Ocean City
Nobody does wacky better than otherwise well-behaved OC. A weeklong series of silly, strange events — a french fry sculpting contest; the Little Miss and Little Mister Chaos contest (kids see who can make the most noise banging on pots and pans) and a wet T-shirt contest. It's not what you think. Contestants see who can throw a T-shirt the farthest. It culminates with the Miss Crustacean Pageant, the only beauty pageant for hermit crabs anywhere. Visit ocnj.us.
• The Boardwalk Chapel
4312 Boardwalk, Wildwood
(609) 522-5616
Only in Jersey would you find a boardwalk chapel amid tattoo parlors, T-shirt shops and pizzerias. But the Boardwalk Chapel, run by the Orthodox Presbyterian Church of New Jersey, offers Sunday services, often enlivened by skits, preaching, witness and the occasional puppet show or pantomime. During the day it's a welcome sanctuary from the boardwalk noise and neon.
WITH THE KIDS
• Matt Keenan's Elation Surf Camp
Avalon
(609) 271-8146
Get your children on a surfboard. Who knows, they may be hooked for life. You can even take lessons with them. There are one-day ($100), three-day ($250) and five-day ($375) sessions. Soft foam surfboards, wet-suits, rash guards and a goodie bag full of giveaways are included. Visit elationsurfcamps.com.
• Shark Park
26th and Brigantine Blvd.,
Brigantine
No, it's not filled with sharks, it's an imaginative play area filled with twists and turns and turrets. You want swings, go to Lowe's or Home Depot.
• Cape May County Zoo
Route 9 and Crest Haven Road
Cape May Court House
(609) 465-1033
Still free, still open every day of the year except Christmas. Still relatively unknown outside Cape May and Atlantic counties. The 170 species of animals include giraffes, zebras, camels, lions, monkeys, peacocks, bald eagles, turtles, four rare snow leopards, even flamingos from Michael Jackson's Neverland Ranch. Visit capemaycountyzoo.org.
• Skateboard Park
6th and Boardwalk, Ocean City
Open from 9 a.m. to dusk daily. For skateboarders and rollerbladers.
• Air Circus Kite Shop
1114 Boardwalk, Ocean City
(609) 399-9343
Not just kites and much more than tacky beach souvenirs, t his boardwalk institution stocks toys and novelties of all kinds. Ask one of the clerks to show you the world-class yo-yos.
ESSENTIAL EATS
• Aversa's
3101 Atlantic Blvd.,
Brigantine
(609) 264-8880
You want to act like a local down here, you must know your sticky buns, those caramel-laden, calorie-ridden and absolutely scrumptious pastries that are a South Jersey — and Philly — favorite. The best sticky buns Down the Shore are at Aversa's, and don't even dare argue with me. Excellent torpedo rolls, too. Oh, yeah, "torpedo roll" — another South Jersey-ism.
• Brown's
110 Boardwalk, Ocean City
(609) 391-0677
The best Shore doughnuts, period. No designer flavors, just six kinds: vanilla-glazed, chocolate-glazed, cinnamon sugar, powdered sugar, honey-glazed and plain. The coated ones are dipped right in front of you. Watch them roll out one by one on the machine. Expect a line on weekends, but the wait will be worth it.
• Country Kettle Chowda
Ninth and Bay avenues,
Beach Haven
(609) 492-2800
Multiple-time winner at the Chowderfest, and for good reason. The chowders at this tiny takeout shop are thick and hearty. Around the corner is Country Kettle Fudge.
• Pat's Lunch
1105 Stone Harbor Blvd.,
Middle Township
Just outside Stone Harbor
(609) 368-6379
The "world-famous" soups are overrated, but a visit to Pat Tirotta's sandwich/soup shack is a must. He won't let you order a soup unless you taste it first. Tirotta lays the schtick on thick — his soups are "unbelievable," his lobster bisque "the best in the country" — but he's one of those old-school characters they just don't make anymore.
• Positively 4th Street Coffee Bar & Cafe
400 Atlantic Ave.,
Ocean City
(609) 399-8400
Cool, colorful cafe that aspires to be more than the usual salad-sandwich-and-wrap hangout, with creative panini and other dishes, including a buffalo burger and hot dog covered with goat cheese, caramelized onions, roasted red peppers and dijon. The couple who own it also run Laurel Bay B&B upstairs.
• Tony's Baltimore Grill
2800 Atlantic Ave.,
Atlantic City
(609) 345-5766
Don't be thrown off by the eerily red-lit, corner-bar-like interior. Some of the food is forgettable, but you'll go for one reason: the excellent thin-crust pizza, especially the sausage pie. The beer's cheap, too. A world away from the antiseptic casino scene.
• White House Subs
2301 Arctic Ave.,
Atlantic City
(609) 345-1564
Legendary hangout, lots of attitude, good subs and cheesesteaks. They serve the famous (the Beatles, Sinatra, Joe DiMaggio, many Miss Americas, etc.) and not-so-famous. Best sub shop at the Jersey Shore. Make sure to grab a ticket as soon as you enter.
GUILTY PLEASURES
• Hot Dog Tommy's
Big Beach Drive, Cape May
(609) 884-8388
Tommy Snyder serves a good hot dog, and better schtick. The wise-cracking wiener man and his wife, Mary, operate a hole-in-the-wall hot dog stand at the end of Jackson Street. It doesn't seem suited to staid Cape May, but a visit to Tommy's will bring a smile to the stuffiest sort.
• Vanilla Bean Creamery
958 Route 109,
Lower Township
Best ice cream Down the Shore, and that includes Hoffman's, Kohrs and all the others. Open from 5 p.m. on, so don't go showing up at noon. Joanne, the owner, almost singlehandledly turned a ramshackle house into an ice cream stand. Easy to find. Follow the parkway to its end and it's another quarter-mile on the right. Another primo cone spot: Margate Dairy Bar, 9510 Ventnor Ave., Margate.
• Johnson's Popcorn
1368 Boardwalk, Ocean City
(800) 842-2676
Forget the taffy; take home some peanut crunch popcorn and caramel from this boardwalk institution. Open: "God-willing and weather-permitting.''
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