3 1/2 stars for Sassafras restaurant in West Palm Beach, where Subculture Group (Dada, Kapow Noodle Bar) and chef John Thomas (32 East, Tryst) bring elevated touches to homey Southern fare. The restaurant opened in November 2019 and features sweet-tea brined fried chicken, shrimp and grits, hoppin' John and pork chops with cornbread pudding.