Tschabalala Self arrives nearly a half hour late for our appointment at her New Haven, Connecticut, studio, sipping a concoction of fresh lime slices and honey from a mason jar. “I didn’t have any tea bags, so lime was my tea bag for today,” she says. She’s a compact beauty in a black watch cap, red sweater, navy pants, and hiking boots, her superlong fingernails painted lavender. To enter the studio, which is located in a converted factory building on the outskirts of the Yale campus, I have to sidestep a huge, unstretched canvas.
A work in progress inspired by Matisse’s 1908 sculpture Two Negresses, Self’s creation is titled Two Girls and features entwined figures made up of a collage of stitched-together fabrics. Laundry baskets filled with scraps, some of them rescued from her childhood home, are everywhere in the fifth-floor workspace, and her sewing machine is front and center—a crucial component of her art. “Her expressive use of sewing introduced a lot of new elements into the language of figurative painting,” says Ellen Tani, who curated a show of Self’s work at Boston’s Institute of Contemporary Art. “I’m drawing with the sewing machine,” the 29-year-old says. “I love having this machine as an extension of my hand.”
The process that Self has worked out for herself is fiendishly complex, a combination of sewing, printing, and painting to build black bodies that verge on the grotesque and can conjure intense sexual images—vulvas, cartoonishly large bottoms, the occasional penis. “Sexuality makes people uncomfortable,” Self says. “And if you’re dealing with women of color and their sexuality, it compounds all those anxieties.” Across the hall, Self works on her sculptures, structures that look as though they’ve stepped right out of her paintings—voluptuous physiques with often discordant body parts, made of wood, chipboard, plaster gauze, mirrored plexiglass, welded steel. “I figured out how to build my sculptures by watching plastic-surgery shows on TV,” she tells me.