Humble biryani is a mainstay at weddings and events, though a number of businesses are expanding their take on the food.

While the spiced mixed-rice dish, originally from India, is popular across the spectrum of followers of local religions, Muslim-owned shops are the traditional purveyors. A number of Buddhist-owned shops are now opening, and several restaurants are also taking biryani upscale.

What is clear is that competition is increasing. Repeat customers are prized, with many returning to their favourite shops for years if the offerings are tasty enough.

New shops, however, are springing up, aiming for a new twist on an old classic.

“There’s a lot more competitors now. The business has changed, and declined a little compared to past years – but we still have strong competitors,” said Ko Arkar Kyaw, from KSS Group of Companies.

Its Nat Thout Dar Biryani chain is well-known since opening nine years ago. It currently has nine shops in Yangon, and is experimenting with lower cholesterol and healthier foods.

Ko Arkar Kyaw said it is most important that people trust its quality and service, and particularly the food safety.

The biryani industry is attempting to move to the next level – Ko Arkar Kyaw said Nat Thout Dar Biryani will soon have a web presence.

Biryani shops often receive significant foot traffic, but most depend on special orders for ceremonies and weddings. Therefore, they tend to do best during wedding season, and weakest when the festive calendar precludes too many events.

Although there are a number of foods that are suitable for weddings, buyers say biryani is a standout.

Bahan township resident Ko Kyaw Naing Soe said when making an order for his brother’s wedding, he wanted to purchase from a Buddhist-owned shop, hence the purchase from Shwe Myanmar.

Shwe Myanmar is one of a number of local shops that have tried to move the food upscale. Foreigners are often reluctant to try the dish at local shops, but will go to more spruced-up locations.

Shwe Myanmar chief executive officer Ma Hnin Thet Kyaw Naing said her store’s focus is on showcasing biryani.

“There were a lot of biryani shops in the market when we opened a year ago,” she said. “But we’ve used a new style to start a trend to international standards.”

Her shop is open 24 hours, focused on clean and smart decorations, she added.

“Foreigners may come to Myanmar and want to eat biryani, but not know what shop to go to,” she said. “Most shops focus on orders [to events like weddings] but not dining, and we want to change the trend.”

While Ma Hnin Thet Kyaw Naing’s approach is to serve meals inside her restaurant, others are taking a different tact.

Ko Si Thu said he buy biryani based on his friends’ recommendations from a seller who does not have his own shop. The seller is flexible on quantity and price, though, which were attributes Ko Si Thu was looking for to feed his recent wedding guests.

“Our family always orders from him, and we like the taste,” he said.

The cook, Ko Ei Soot, lives in South Okkalapa township.

He has been in the business for 20 years, but it still has its ups and downs. Without a storefront presence, he relies entirely on catering orders for events.

“The large number of shops that are opening does not affect our business, because we target different groups of customers,” he said. “Our customers like my biryani’s taste, and they come to me when the need a large order.”