Fade From White: Memories of Pancakes at Childs

buildingsThe site of the Fulton Street Transit Center on Broadway. The Girard Building, left, and the former Childs restaurant (in blue) are coming down now. Next to Childs is the Corbin Building, which will be saved. (Photo: David W. Dunlap/The New York Times) Enlarge this image.

A tantalizing taste of New York’s favorite restaurant chain from a century ago, the pristine pancake palace known as Childs, has emerged in the swirl of demolition for the Fulton Street Transit Center.

Economical and sanitary, the many restaurants run by Samuel and William Childs could be counted on to have a white-uniformed chef and a pancake griddle in their front windows. “White-tiled floors and walls, white-marble tabletops, waitresses in starched white and, oddly enough, crystal chandeliers, attracted a newly germ-conscious public,” Michael and Arianne Batterberry wrote in “On the Town in New York” (1973).

Today, stripped to its bare bones, the 96-year-old Childs branch at 194 Broadway (most recently part of the Riese Organization’s chain), is showing off those white-tiled and mosaic walls to passers-by.

facadeThe Childs restaurant, painted blue when it was operated by the Riese Organization, abuts the Girard Building. Both are being demolished. (Photo: David W. Dunlap/The New York Times) Enlarge this image.

With the removal of the Riese Organization’s distracting signage, the original facade in neo-Classical style is once again legible: meanders, dentils, bundled reeds and fruit garlands.

See if your neighborhood Starbucks looks this good in 2103.

Next door, the Girard Building, a 12-story building from 1902, is about halfway down. Though only 23 feet wide, it was richly decorated, most notably with two fierce lion’s heads. A two-story “taxpayer” at Fulton Street has already been razed. Demolition of the Broadway buildings is to be finished by the end of September, said a spokesman for the Metropolitan Transportation Authority. None of the architectural ornament is to be salvaged.

Preservationists won an important concession at the site in 2003, when the M.T.A. agreed to keep the 19th-century Corbin Building and incorporate it into the new transit center, which is meant to be a hub for the tangle of subway lines in that part of Lower Manhattan.

But the Girard Building will be mourned. Or at least missed.

“I will always remember the central stair — steep with beautiful worn stone treads and a very fine brass handrail,” said Guy Nordenson, an engineer whose office was in the building. “I walked down many times because it was so much more pleasant than the tiny elevator. The community of people — including the elegant Ahmed at the door — was diverse and many of them in quite useful and socially engaged practices. We scattered and will likely never see each other again but I will remember them all — from tailor to activists — with respect and pleasure.”

building detailsLion’s head from the Girard building; detail of the neo-Classical ornamentation on the Childs facade; and a glimpse of the white-tile and mosaic wall inside. (Photos: David W. Dunlap/The New York Times)

Comments are no longer being accepted.

So this is what they’re talking about, in the song “What a Waste” from WONDERFUL TOWN by Bernstein, Comden & Green.

“Now you’ll find her flippin’ flapjacks at Childs.
What a waste!
What a waste!
What a waste of money and time!”

Brenda

The following is an except from a September, 2004 NY Times article. Maybe we should get the mob involved in landmarks preservation; heaven (or hell) knows they seem to have the backing of the powers that be at the MTA…

Federal prosecutors investigating Metropolitan Transportation Authority renovation of building at 2 Broadway unseal court papers revealing that Frederick J Contini, who ran project for agency, was working with Gambino and Genovese crime families and had entered secret plea to racketeering earlier in 2004; say MTA put Contini in charge of project even though earlier employer fired him and warned agency to steer clear of him; say corruption at 2 Broadway was more widespread than previously revealed; accuse Contini of siphoning off substantially more than $10 million from project through inflated bills, extortion and kickbacks involving 10 separate contracts; indictment also names Gambino family member Edward Garafolo and his son, Mario, and Junior Campbell, business agent for Laborers Union.

‘Nuff said?

Now I finally get the lyric in the song “Manhattan!” I reckon they didn’t give any pancakes away. They haven’t pulled it down yet, have they?