There’s a certain accessory that is at once quiet and loud, invisible and undeniably pervasive—just like its precious ingredients. To understand its mystique, just page through Mandy Aftel’s new book, Fragrant.
“I venture deep into the fragrant world every day,” she says, when asked what inspired her newest volume on scent. “One of my great joys is bringing other people there, and watching as they immerse themselves in the experience.”
Under her written guidance, I travel the world in search of extraordinary aromatics: cinnamon, frankincense, ambergris, jasmine and mint. Aftel originally planned her book around the first four notes, but incorporated mint when her friend, Chef Daniel Patterson, suggested “something green.” With the addition of this fifth note, she covers every facet of fragrance: the exotic, the spiritual, the curious, the beautiful and the familiar.
To bring Aftel’s words to life, dedicated readers can purchase her companion kit: miniature, syringe-filled bottles of cinnamon and mint, tinctured jasmine and ambergris and a small piece of frankincense resin. The only thing missing when you finish the book will be your next natural perfume, so I catch up with Aftel for her expert advice on choosing and buying one.
The Natural vs. Synthetic Scent Debate
Why opt for natural perfumes when there are so many synthetic options available? According to Aftel, the experience is noticeably different. “The aroma is more layered and complex, and it evolves rather than striking you all at once,” she explains. “I love the way natural essences interact in such a beautiful way with your body chemistry, and how the aromas evolve on your skin and naturally fade away.” Unlike synthetic compositions, typically designed to begin strong and stay strong, natural perfumes have a much shorter wear time. But don’t think of this as a con; simply reapply when the scent has completed its complex evolution.
How Much Should You Expect to Pay?
In short, expect to pay a lot. “The ingredients for natural perfumes, in general terms, cost from $2,000-$14,000 per kilo,” says Aftel. The high cost is entirely worth it when it comes to notes like natural jasmine, which she tells me cannot be equaled or even approximated by artificial compositions—because “there are many trace odor notes that contribute to its extraordinary beauty. Although they occur in tiny amounts, they play a decisive role in its aroma.” (Note that it takes more than 2,000 lbs. of flowers to produce little more than three pounds of jasmine absolute.)
Why Signature Scents are Overrated
If you believe in picking one scent and wearing it forever, consider abandoning that philosophy, if only temporarily. “I feel that our experience of scent is connected to our animal nature, and we are so many different people,” says Aftel. “It's a shame to limit ourselves to just one. We want to smell different at night than in the day, different in summer than in winter, different in the city than in the woods.” And for those who think of natural perfumes as one-note, musky and heavy, she counters with the following list of notes: “Choya nakh, made from roasted seashells, smells like a campfire on the beach. Drop-dead gorgeous gardenia absolute from Tahiti. Blood orange—rich and voluptuous, with notes of raspberry and strawberry. Frankincense has a soft, fresh, balsamic aroma with hints of lemon and orange.”
Expert Fragrance Testing Tips
One of the best tips I pick up from Fragrant is the trick of breathing deeply through any piece of wool clothing to refresh your olfactory palette. As Aftel notes, the commonly used coffee beans provide a distraction, but don’t actually reset your ability to smell. At my request, she dispenses a few more pieces of invaluable scent-testing advice: “Try the scent on your skin, and don't test more than three fragrances at a time. Apply one fragrance each to the backs of your middle three fingers: index, middle and ring. Smell them, then revisit them over time, noting the way the scent changes and evolves.” And since many natural perfumes are sold online, always secure a sample when you can—and a trusted review when you can’t (Aftel cites Gaia Fishler’s blog, The Non-Blonde, as a favorite).
Lastly, a tip that applies to any purchase, fragrant or otherwise: “Don’t buy anything that you haven’t fallen in love with.”
I'm bringing you a behind-the-scenes look at the experts and entrepreneurs shaping the beauty and men's grooming industries, with an eye on luxury. As the former Beauty
…I'm bringing you a behind-the-scenes look at the experts and entrepreneurs shaping the beauty and men's grooming industries, with an eye on luxury. As the former Beauty Features Editor at Teen Vogue, I expanded digital coverage to include discussions on the intersection of identity and appearance. You can also find my bylines on Glamour, Refinery29, and Lifestyle Mirror, and in the pages of CBS Watch! Magazine. Follow me on Instagram for the best new launches with a side of bread commentary: @say.wu.