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Leach amp  | 

     
       
Leach Amp Clone
by Jens Rasmussen
 Original schematics by
W. Marshall Leach, Jr., Professor

Thank you to the many great people at www.diyaudio.com who helped me with ideas and input during the design

(You know who you are)

Link to 6 transistor version
 
  

PDF - and Production files:

Leach amp with 10 output transistors - Schematics (PDF)

Leach amp parts list for 10 transistor version (PDF)

Leach amp silk screen for 10 transistor version (PDF)

Leach amp construction manual (PDF)

This PCB design is free for personal use only.

Zip file containing the complete set of gerber and drill files for PCB production (Zip)

Leach amp pics

 

I always liked the original amp designed by Mr. Leach, but thought that all the wiring was a bit of a bad solution, because it is easy to make a wiring mistake and maybe destroy expensive transistors in the process. This is the reason that I made my own layout to fit my need for a powerful and good sounding amplifier. I like the flat pack transistors, so I decided to use these types in my design. There are some issues regarding the safe operating area for these types compared to the original TO-3 types. This is the reason that I choose 5 parallel transistors in stead of the original two. The higher transistor count enables me to run the amplifier with +-68V rails and into a lower speaker resistance.  

The PCB panel for the 10 transistor version looks like this:

The main PCB is 25.4 cm long and 10.8 cm wide


I'm pretty happy with the result. The board is 2.4 mm thick and the copper is 105µm (3 oz) I have had a prototype of this board playing for the last year or so in my living room. The amps has five parallel output transistors and is very powerful putting out around 180W into 8 ohms.

The two small PCBs in the bottom of the PCB panel are both for the thermal tracking diodes. The bigger PCB is for 1N4007 types and the smaller is for SMT (Surface Mount Technology) diodes.

The next picture is the bottom view of the board. The two rail lines run nice and fat down to each of the output transistors. Each transistor has a small cap on the collector pin to maximize dynamics and improve stability. There is room for two large 10.000µF caps on the board to decouple the rails, along with fuses for protection and zobel network for stability.

Underneath here is a picture of me mounting some of the components on the first board. My fiancée Janni took the picture.

Next after mounting all the parts it was time for a test. Underneath here is a picture of the test setup in my basement. The black thing in the background is a 800VA 2 x 45V AC transformer. Nothing was smoking, so I connected the 8 ohm dummy load seen to the right of the transformer.

Initial testing showed good stability and an excellent power output level of around 150W RMS into an 8 Ohm load and 275W RMS into a 4 ohm load. The rail voltage dropped from +-63V unloaded to +- 56V under the 8 ohm load and to +- 53V during the 4 ohm test. I plan to eventually run the amp at around +-70V unloaded.

Square wave response is ok, at 1 kHz into 8 ohm there is a small overshoot, but nothing alarming. The oscilloscope is set at 20V/DIV.

 


Construction details

Please print out the component placement and schematics before proceeding.


Step one:


Start by mounting and soldering all resistors except for R//L, make sure you can see solder around the component pins on both sides of the PCB.

Mount the zener diodes, small signal diodes, thermal diodes (Remember that they should NOT go all the way through the PCB and make contact on the bottom side) and catch diodes. Then solder them.

The thermal diodes can be either 1N4007 or 1N4148 (SMT) you must use one of the two small PCBs

Mount P1 and solder.

Mount the small signal and medium power transistors (NOT DRIVERS AND OUTPUT TRANSISTORS) and and solder them.

Mount all the film caps and small electrolytic caps and solder them.

Mount the terminal blocks, if you like to, else just use the holes in the board to solder wires in later.

Wind the R//L, mount it and solder it.

Mount the fuse holders and solder, add fuses of 1 amp. (The 1 amp fuses will be replaced later)

Mount and solder the big electrolytic caps.

Mount the pin header for the input.

Mount the pin header on the thermal diode PCB. Remember that it should NOT go all the way through the PCB and make contact on the bottom side.

Mount the stand offs that the PCB is going to be mounted on.

Mount the Small PCB with the thermal diodes in the right distance from the PCB

 


Stop and evaluate your work so far.

Is everything in its right place?

Are the electrolytic capacitors polarised correctly?

Are all semiconductors polarised correctly?

Have you made any solder bridges?

If you are confident that everything is ok please continue to pre flight testing


Step two, pre flight testing:


Connect the transformer and bridge rectifier that you want to use with the amp. The transformer must be al least 2 x 40V AC and rated at 500VA.

Remember to put a 1 A fuse in series with the primary winding of the transformer.

Connect the + from the bridge rectifier to VCC and the - to VSS. Connect the gnd to the center tap of the transformer.

Turn on the power and measure the rail voltage on the large electrolytic caps. This should read between 55V - 70V depending of your transformer.

Measure the voltage with respect to ground on the basis of T1 and T6. This should be +40V and - 40V

Make sure that nothing gets warm - if everything is ok, you are ready to proceed, if not start looking for the error.

 


Step three, output inductor:


The output inductor in used in the amp to improve stability and to keep radio frequency signals from entering the ampplifer "through the backdoor"


 

I use 1 mm in diameter insulated copper wire for the coil. The wire is wound arround a 10 ohm power resistor and soldered directly to the resistor pins. I use about 10 - 14 turns of wire, this number will depend on the type of resistor used, but it will not matter of it is 10 or 14 turns. I use a pencil to first wind the inductor, because the pencil has the same diameter as the resistor.

 


Step four, The heatsink:


Here is a picture of the transistors on the main heatsink. Notice the washer between the transistor and head of the screw.

Close up up the screw, I almost always use TORX type screws, because I find them better and easier to work with than a standard Philips head type.

The Thermal diodes mount on a similar way, bolted to the heatsink with two screws. The copper on the small PCB ensures good thermal tracking between the heatsink and thermal sensing diodes.


 


 

MORE TO COME

 

   

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