Christmas in Spain

It would be hard to accuse Spaniards of 'forgetting what Christmas is all about'; the giving of presents does not take place until well after Christmas Day, and Spain's old traditions of representing the birth of Jesus remain as strong as ever.

Throughout the Christmas period in Spain nativity scenes (belenes), showing Bethlehem of Judea on the night Jesus was born, are commonplace. These scenes usually take the form of intricate models (pictured) which go on display in people's houses and – in the case of very ornate nativity scenes - in public buildings.

In some Spanish towns and villages, a Live Nativity (Belén Viviente) takes place. Arcos de la Frontera, where much of Speekee was filmed, is one of the best known locations for just such an event. Spaniards come from far and wide to see it. Here’s a video clip:

Gambling is popular in Spain, and December 22nd sees the world’s most famous lottery El Gordo (The Fat One) take place. It seems like the whole of Spain takes part in this huge annual event, each person spending an average of over €70. Prize money is in the region of €2000 million. As is tradition, children from St Ildefonso school call the numbers by singing them out loud.

Christmas Eve (La Noche Buena) in Spain gets greater billing than Christmas Day which, other than being a popular day for families to get together (the Spanish need few excuses for this to happen!) is barely celebrated. No presents are given on Christmas Day in Spain. Meanwhile, Christmas dinner won’t be eaten until after midnight.

On Christmas Eve the tradition is to go to a candlelit midnight mass, the Mass of the Rooster (La Misa del Gallo) – so named because it is said a rooster crowed the night Jesus was born. Mass is usually followed by a feast at home, which typically includes almond soup, a roast, red cabbage, and sweet potato or pumpkin.

Learn the phrase: ¡Feliz Navidad! (Happy Christmas)

There are several similarities between Christmas celebrations in Spain and those in the UK. For example, Christmas trees are commonplace. Christmas carols (Villancicos) are an important feature too, just as in the UK. Below are the words to Silent Night in Spanish, along with its English translation – and the traditional English words to Silent Night for comparison.

Spanish words	English translation of Spanish	Traditional English words
Noche de paz, noche de amor, Todo duerme en derredor. Entre sus astros que esparcen su luz Bella anunciando al niñito Jesú Brilla la estrella de paz Brilla la estrella de paz.	Night of peace, night of love, Everyone is sleeping all about. The stars spread their light, Beautifully announcing the baby Jesus. The star of peace shines, The star of peace shines.	Silent night, holy night! All is calm, all is bright. Round yon Virgin, Mother and Child. Holy infant so tender and mild, Sleep in heavenly peace, Sleep in heavenly peace.
Noche de paz, noche de amor, Todo duerme en derredor Sólo velan en la oscuridad Los pastores que en el campo están Y la estrella de Belén Y la estrella de Belén.	Night of peace, night of love. Everyone is sleeping all about. The only ones watching in the darkness Are the shepherds in the field And the star of Bethlehem, And the star of Bethlehem.	Silent night, holy night! Shepherds quake at the sight. Glories stream from heaven afar Heavenly hosts sing Alleluia, Christ the Savior is born! Christ the Savior is born.
Noche de paz, noche de amor Todo duerme en derredor sobre el santo niño Jesú Una estrella esparce su luz, Brilla sobre el Rey Brilla sobre el Rey.	Night of peace, night of love. Everyone is sleeping all about. Over the holy baby Jesus A star spreads its light, Brightly over the King, Brightly over the King.	Silent night, holy night! Son of God love's pure light. Radiant beams from Thy holy face With the dawn of redeeming grace, Jesus Lord, at Thy birth. Jesus Lord, at Thy birth.
Noche de paz, noche de amor, Todo duerme en derredor Fieles velando allí en Belén Los pastores, la madre también. Y la estrella de paz, Y la estrella de paz.	Night of peace, night of love. Everyone is sleeping all about. The shepherds, the mother too. And the star of peace And the star of peace

If you find yourself in Spain on December 28th keep your wits about you. This is Spain’s equivalent of April Fools Day, known as El Día de los Santos Inocentes (Innocent Saints’ Day).

New Year is welcomed by a curious tradition: grape eating. As New Year’s Eve draws to a close one grape is consumed on the chime of each hour at midnight, so that’s twelve grapes in all. This tradition is complicated by the fact that it’s very hard to get seedless grapes in Spain. So if you happen to be taking part, extract the pips beforehand!

Learn the phrase: ¡Feliz Año Nuevo! (Happy New Year)

Christmas celebrations officially last from Christmas Eve until January 6th – the day Spanish children have been waiting for all year. It is not Father Christmas who brings the children their gifts, but the Three Kings (Los Reyes Magos). Rather than hanging Christmas stockings, children put their best shoes out the night of January 5th in the hope that by morning the shoes will contain gifts from the kings. If they’ve been good, the children will get presents, and if not they will find coal in their shoes!

Those who get coal may be consoled by the Cavalcade of the Three Kings (Cabalgata). These pageants are usually organised and paid for by the local council, and they involve three people dressed as the kings, plus plenty of young helpers, who hurl presents into the waiting crowd from their ‘camels’ (in the absence of camels, normally a tractor trailer).