Published since 1929, The American Alpine
Journal is the premiere annual record of
significant mountaineering and long rock
climbing ascents worldwide. American Alpine Club
members receive the 500-page American Alpine
Journal (retail $35) free with membership.
On this Web page you will find links to free
downloadable PDF files of various AAJ articles,
guidelines for submitting new climb reports to
the AAJ, and indexes to the complete AAJ
collection.
Index
The AAJ comprehensive index allows you to
locate reports of climbs based on region,
country, climber, and peak name. PDF versions
are available by clicking on:
AAJ Index A-K 1929-2005 (2.9 MBytes)
AAJ
Index L-Z 1929-2005 (2.8 MBytes)
AAJ Book Reviews Index 1929-2005 (552
KBytes)
Submissions
If you recently completed a long new route,
we would like a report for the next AAJ. Please
consult our
AAJ Submissions Guidelines prior to
sending materials. Questions should be directed
to the editor (aaj@AmericanAlpineClub.org).
Purchasing
the AAJ
The current edition of the AAJ is available
in many bookstores and climbing shops, and can
be ordered directly from The Mountaineers Books
(www.MountaineersBooks.org;
800.553.4453). Back issues for many years are
available. The AAJ will soon be available for
purchase electronically on CD/DVD and as
pay-per-download on the Web.
Articles
The following articles are available as free
downloadable PDFs by clicking the links. We
encourage reproduction of these articles on
websites and in print, but credit must be given
to the American Alpine Journal and the authors;
contact the Editor at
aaj@AmericanAlpineClub.org before
publication.
AAJ 2004 Contents, FOJ, Preface: Click
here for the Table of Contents, Preface, and
Friends of the AAJ for the current edition of
the American Alpine Journal. (1 MBytes)
AAJ Grade Comparison Chart: This 4-page
chart compares the world’s rock, ice, and alpine
climbing grades and is useful for traveling and
for deciphering the AAJ and other international
climbing publications. Sponsored by W. L. Gore/Shipton-Tilman
Grants. (472 KBytes)
A Logical Dilemma: When it comes to
bolts, one climber’s “progress” becomes another
climber’s theft from the future of adventure.
This article centers on today’s longest sport
route, “Logical Progression” on Mexico’s El
Gigante wall, but the issues and debaters are
worldwide. Contributors include Jeff Achey,
Chris Bonington, Sean Easton, Carlos Garcia,
Alexander Huber, Royal Robbins, and many more.
Originally published in AAJ 2003. (1.1 MBytes)
The Tyrol Declaration: In the fall of
2002 nearly 100 of the world’s leading climbers
gathered in Innsbruck to debate the “Best
Practices in Mountain Sports.” The Tyrol
Declaration is their consensus on contemporary
standards of behavior on 10 major themes, from
how to deal with injured climbers to the ethical
use of bolts in the mountains. Originally
published in AAJ 2003. (768 KBytes)
Cerro Torre – “A Mountain Unveiled: A revealing
analysis of Cerro Torre’s tallest tale”:
This article, by Rolando Garibotti, explores
Cesare Maestri’s claim to the first ascent of
Argentina’s Cerro Torre. Published in AAJ 2004,
pages 138-155.
Cerro Torre – Garibotti Bibliography:
The complete reference list for “A Mountain
Unveiled: A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre’s
tallest tale,” by Rolando Garibotti. The
article, including a highly abbreviated
bibliography, was published in AAJ 2004, pages
138-155.
Success and Death on Mt. Everest:
Historic trends, charts, graphs, and careful
statistical analysis of those who climbed and/or
died on Mt. Everest. This is the complete 8-page
article by Raymond B. Huey and Richard Salisbury
that was condensed in AAJ 2003.
AAC Club Activities in 2003: What the
American Alpine Club regional sections were up
to in 2003. From AAJ 2004. (168 Kbytes)
Contact Address for Submissions and
Questions:
The American Alpine Journal
710 Tenth Street, Suite 140
Golden, Colorado 80401 USA
phone: 303.384.0110
fax: 303.384.0111
e-mail:
aaj@americanalpineclub.org |