Woodend to Daylesford

Daylesford is a popular destination for day-trippers and weekenders, yet ask what they go there to see and they might be stuck for an answer.

It's a pretty town, wedged on the outskirts of the Wombat State Forest, with a lake, a bustling country community and proximity to Hepburn Springs, with its strange allure of groundwater laced with minerals.

There's no significant wine industry or much in the way of natural landmarks or monumental buildings, though. Daylesford is just a nice place to visit, with enough tourism to have spawned a critical mass of cafes, galleries, bed-and-breakfasts and genteel things to do.
The town's relative closeness to Melbourne must also help. Getting there is simple enough: many drivers head out on the Western Freeway towards Ballarat, then cut across from Ballan, which is a nice enough drive. Or take the Calder Freeway, turn off to Woodend, and
saunter along a fairly quiet country road that alternatively dips through grazing and bushland, with a few things to see along the way.

Woodend is a much quieter place since being bypassed by the freeway and is worth a look; or visit nearby Hanging Rock or Mount Macedon.
Just past the town centre is a left-turn to Trentham and Daylesford, which is the start of this route. You'll go through the small town of Tylden before reaching a turn-off after about 15 kilometres of scenic but uneventful driving. Don't head directly to Daylesford, but take the small detour to Trentham.

The town might not be large but it doesn't take much to imagine its main street during the gold rush, or later, when forestry was Trentham's main source of income. The place hasn't changed much since then. There are still horse troughs, and several shops and pubs retain their original facades.

Back-track a little on the way to Daylesford and there's a turn-off to Trentham Falls. From the car-park it's a short walk to what is said to be Victoria's longest single-drop waterfall, where the Coliban River plunges over basalt formations into a pool below.

Near Lyonville as the road heads towards Daylesford, it enters the Wombat Forest. Although well-made these days, it can be a bit slippery, especially in winter when the higher altitudes get plenty of rain.

A bit further on, the town of Musk may be a small dot on the map, but arrive at the right time and the Central Highlands Tourist Railway - a section of previously unused track restored by local enthusiasts - might be running.

From there it's just a short hop into Daylesford and Hepburn Springs with the gentle allure of a latte in the main street, a stroll through the Convent Gallery, a hearty pub meal or maybe a stay in one of the many boutique accommodations. Either way, if you've escaped the Big Smoke for a quiet drive and Daylesford's peaceful charms, it isn't difficult to see what brings people back.

Stop for a bite: Wildings at the Cosmopolitan (5424 1755) is worth it not just for a reasonably priced and swiftly-served meal, but because the old pub with its flowing veranda on Trentham's main intersection is straight out of the 19th century. For a bigger feed, try the Cosmopolitan's restaurant.

Or something a bit more grand: The Lake House (5348 3329) is a Daylesford landmark, with quiet gardens, lovely accommodation by the lake and a sensational restaurant run by Alla Wolf-Tasker. Seasonal local produce, fine cooking, a top location (not to mention two hats in The Age Good Food Guide) make the Lake House perfect for a long lunch or standout dinner.

Try visiting: The main occupation in Daylesford seems to be hanging about and doing not much at all, and a drink or bite at Frangos & Frangos (5348 2363) in the main (Vincent) street is an excellent place for this.

The Convent Gallery is worth a look, or make the short trip to taste the waters of Hepburn.

Continue a short way past Hepburn to Lavandula, a Swiss-Italian lavender and olive farm, with a licensed cafe in a peaceful setting.

Stay at: There are dozens of excellent places to stay in Daylesford. It is the B&B capital of Victoria, so try some in-house accommodation at Cherry Tree Cottage (5348 3299), a house whose ordinary exterior conceals an extraordinarily funky and stylish interior. Or Holyrood House, just behind Daylesford's main street, a gracious, traditional mansion with a big garden and a dining room that serves brilliant Malaysian cooking. The dining room doubles as a restaurant on weekends.

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Fast facts

Trip distance: About 48 km.
Distance from Melbourne: Woodend, 70 km.
Fuel available at: Woodend, Daylesford.
Short story: the Daylesford-Hepburn Springs area is a favourite Victorian destination for day-trippers and weekend getaways. There's also a lot to see along the way, including on the short drive after you leave the Calder Highway.